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Boost gauge tap in point

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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 04:16 PM
  #31  
felickz's Avatar
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From: Reading, PA
I have faith in the hose clamps on the MR vacuum lines, sort of .

Last edited by felickz; Mar 5, 2008 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 05:30 PM
  #32  
Mr. Evo IX's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
I run my gauge off a T on the manifold like that. I've also zip tied everything - dont forget the EGR lines under the manifold when your going zip tie crazy.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 08:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by davidvi
I have done my research and have a few questions. I dont want to tap into the FPR line. I want to tap into the vaccum line for the bov. Is the line in the pic the vaccum line for the bov. I have searched and cant find a pic of the bov line. My old car was a 2004 VW jetta and I tapped the vaccum line for the diverter valve. It seemed to work fine.


But where did you get your numbers and letters for Autox. Are they magnetic? How much $???
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Old May 5, 2011 | 05:54 PM
  #34  
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So this is the best (safest place) to tap into?

Originally Posted by JohnEB
Sorry so long, long day at work

Anyways here are two pics for you guys of where my boost gauge line is tee'd in. This is what I think is the ideal to tee a boost gauge line in so you don't have to take the risk of going into the fpr line and having that pop off causing potential harm to your motor.





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Old May 6, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #35  
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From: riverside, ca
to be honest the fpr is one of the best lines to tap into for the boost gauge as others have stated on this thread. Personally, i'm running mine there as well, and only under one condition did that hose pop off becuz it wasnt zip tied down, now you can tell when that line pops off cuz the car runs like dog $hit, so if your car all of a sudden is drivin like crap instinct tells u to pull over, any vacuum lines make sure they get zip tied down over the flange on the line and then your good. If your really that concerned about it poppin off, little trick put some super glue around the outside of the nipple where your puttin the vacuum line, zip tie it down then its on there. I havent had mine pop off in 10k miles, im pushin 26psi peak holdin 22 to redline. So dont be such a baby, haha
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Old May 6, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #36  
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From: Sullivan, NH
So what line is that then? the one with the tape like **** all over it
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Old May 6, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #37  
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From: Cincinnati
Originally Posted by Colbyy
So what line is that then? the one with the tape like **** all over it
No, thats the harness. Look closely at the piece of black hose that connects from the hard line going around the valve cover, into the intake manifold. It has a T connection
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Old May 6, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #38  
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From: Sullivan, NH
This one here shows the one with the tape on it http://www.evomoto.com/article_image.../step_244.jpeg
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Old May 12, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #39  
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From: riverside, ca
ill say again tap into the fpr line, leave the line for the bov on its own dont tie into that it can give false readings, having bov line and boost gauge line on seperate lines not t'd together, gives more accurate readings...less vacuum gauge variation with the pointer.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 01:21 AM
  #40  
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From: seattle
fpr

when you pull the line off the fpr, the engine run rich. So, if the line was teed off there and blew off, won't that make the car run rich?
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 02:07 AM
  #41  
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From: San Diego
i've had mine at the FRP for 6 years now... boost raised to 28PSI with no problems. I understand being safe, but if we always worried about being overly safe might as well not mod our cars at all then. There's always a little risk in making big power!!!
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 02:36 AM
  #42  
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From: michigan
Boost gauges come with necessary vacuum hose and TEE fittings? Or do I need to make a special trip after the gauge arrives. What size Vacuum hose do I need if so?
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