Can you Warp the flywheel beond repair?
Can you Warp the flywheel beond repair?
I was wondering if you can really warp the flywheel so bad you cant fix it? The reason I am asking this is because I am about to have my new clutch installed and I smoked my stock one. It got so bad the clutch would slip and would not grap till like 6 grand and I know it was getting hot. If the chances are good it dammaged beond repair I will just get a new one.
You definately can warp it beyond repair. If anything, try to get a new one (if financially feasible) the reason being is because they are down there in the first place. Might as well take care of everything (flywheel, pressureplate, clutch, TOB).
You can get a new one or a lightened one like the Gruppe S, ACT or similiar. If going to an aftermarket one I would at get one of those I mentioned above or similiar because they can be resurfaced if need be like the OEM one. The aluminum ones can't be resurfaced and you have to buy a separate friction surface if it needs replacing which is not always convienient.
I will be at the shop helping when they pull the tranny. So I guess we will see what the flywheel looks like and then Ill post a pic on here. I dont want to throw out more $ if its not needed.
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Slipping till 6k is further than I've taken any clutch/flywheel, so this is a bit out of my range of personal experiences. 
But one other thing to be careful of is any weakening of the material that may have occured from the excessive heat and heat cycling in this case. I'm no metalurgist, but if you've ever seen the aftermath of a blown up cast flywheel, you'd agree that it's at least worthy of mention. If the machinist that resurfaces it is capable of checking for microscopic or sub-surface cracks I would have that done for some peace of mind perhaps.
But one other thing to be careful of is any weakening of the material that may have occured from the excessive heat and heat cycling in this case. I'm no metalurgist, but if you've ever seen the aftermath of a blown up cast flywheel, you'd agree that it's at least worthy of mention. If the machinist that resurfaces it is capable of checking for microscopic or sub-surface cracks I would have that done for some peace of mind perhaps.
you definitly can mess it up beyond repair. once you or the shop take it out the should be able to tell (should, if its bad)
But there is a possibility of it looking ok. When you take it to a machine shop to get resurfaced, they'll be able to tell because they can only take off so much. they got the gauges and tools to tell you if its beyond repair.
My car recently buirned up my second single disk, I KNOW there is no way that flywheel is still good. i drag race it, i seized it, over heated it in traffic. So i bought a used one, which i found on this forum. It had 20k miles on it, and owner took it out after he buried up the first stock clutch. It looked good and i had that one resurfaced.
i payed 60 bucks shipped for that used one.
But there is a possibility of it looking ok. When you take it to a machine shop to get resurfaced, they'll be able to tell because they can only take off so much. they got the gauges and tools to tell you if its beyond repair.
My car recently buirned up my second single disk, I KNOW there is no way that flywheel is still good. i drag race it, i seized it, over heated it in traffic. So i bought a used one, which i found on this forum. It had 20k miles on it, and owner took it out after he buried up the first stock clutch. It looked good and i had that one resurfaced.
i payed 60 bucks shipped for that used one.
Slipping till 6k is further than I've taken any clutch/flywheel, so this is a bit out of my range of personal experiences. But one other thing to be careful of is any weakening of the material that may have occured from the excessive heat and heat cycling in this case. I'm no metalurgist, but if you've ever seen the aftermath of a blown up cast flywheel, you'd agree that it's at least worthy of mention. If the machinist that resurfaces it is capable of checking for microscopic or sub-surface cracks I would have that done for some peace of mind perhaps.
But one other thing to be careful of is any weakening of the material that may have occured from the excessive heat and heat cycling in this case. I'm no metalurgist, but if you've ever seen the aftermath of a blown up cast flywheel, you'd agree that it's at least worthy of mention. If the machinist that resurfaces it is capable of checking for microscopic or sub-surface cracks I would have that done for some peace of mind perhaps.
haha never seen cast one blow up. u should post some pics or something. i have seen springs pop out, pads fly off, and once, 2 flywheel bolts worked there way out and get lock between the flywheel and clutch, that was no fun. All these things have happened to me in my old cars.
haha never seen cast one blow up. u should post some pics or something. i have seen springs pop out, pads fly off, and once, 2 flywheel bolts worked there way out and get lock between the flywheel and clutch, that was no fun. All these things have happened to me in my old cars.
BTW: Check out how deep the crack is on the last photo. The depth of the crack can be clearly seen by the dark portion that is nearly half way through.
Last edited by ACTman; Feb 18, 2007 at 03:57 PM.
I just had my clutch done and they almost couldn't resurface the flywheel. I was lucky that they did because I didnt have a stock one laying around. I guess next time I do a clutch I'll get a new stocker to put in because I doubt my origanal stocker will be able to be reused again. Ive heard that some aftermarket ones create vibrations that set off the check engine light. You also want to get a one piece like the fidanza or exedy because the two piec units have a tendacy to come apart which can't be a good thing.
I was going to get a one piece flywheel. I was looking at a steel one NOT aluminum. ACTman, What street flywheel would you reccomend? I was lookin at the XACT flywheels