I did mine using the 1x1 method and now I have a nice oil leak on the back side of my block. I was aware of the problem it could potentially cause but decided to do it anyway for the "insurance" benefit. I followed the direction exactly and even cycle torqued it 5x. Should have left well enough alone.

 

Frankly I really cannot understand why someone would do the 1x1 method. If for some odd reason you do create a head leak on the OEM bolts / studs, then you could remove the head, install a new gasket, and then use the ARP hardware, otherwise just keep the the factory setup.

I have heard of too many issues with the 1x1 method to go that route, but to each his own. I do trust Buschur, so if he was doing it then maybe I would feel comfortable. Like most things, if you have someone that is extremely knowledgeable and talented working on your car, then you will likely be fine.

 

I agree. Although the 1x1 method is the cheapest/easiest...any engine builder will tell you the best way (and in some cases the only way) is to pull the head. The new ARP studs will provide more clamping force than the OEM fasteners. Regardless of how you torque the new fasteners(and in what order), the head will have different forces pulling on it.

Unfortunately, it is just not practical to pull the head for head studs only.

 

head stud are needed for those of use running extremer boost levels as in 26 and up the one by one method works as long as you kno what your doing.

 

Mine was done with the one by one method, and is "knock on wood" doing fine at high boost. Definitely recommend doing it though the one way or the other .