build me a built 2.0 monster
The Blocks Problem Right Now Is Three Holes Two In Front And One In Back When The Rod Let Loose. They Did Not Scale The Injectors And Just Added More Fuel To The Stock Fuel Map And Added A Crazy Amount Of Timing And Fuel A Lot Especially For A Stroker Motor. There Was Detonation On Every Piston And Cylinder I Belive They Are Care Less And Do Not Do Things Properly And It Had Nothingto Do With Money They Installed Every Part On My Car And It Was Upwards Up 35k For The Whole Build. I Belive This Should Have Never Happened And With All The Money And Time Into It It Was Supposed To Prevend The Motor From Failing.
We have some of the most conservative timing curves in the industry. I cant tell you how many cars come through here with aggressive timing maps that we have to correct. Martin and Chris are some of the best EVO Tuners in the country.
You ran a 50 Trim 2.3 Stroker Evo wtih a methanol map in the car with No methanol being used. Your ran your car lean and blew the engine, Plain and simple. Please stop spreading lies on this site becuase you did not properly maintain your vehicle.
Eric
Alright everyone, please keep this thread on topic. The original poster is looking for advice/help on which parts he needs to build his motor. Let's not make this into a vendor review thread.
One quick post to clear mine and Chris's end up.
I just checked the map that was in Steve's car when it was tuned here. Timing is at 2 degrees ramping up to 3 degrees at 5500 and then ramps to 7-10 deg at high rpm's. That BTW is not aggresive and we have the evoscan logs which showed no knock. When we tune high HP cars we also read plugs amongst other things to check the tune. A cad doesn't run fine for a long time and then all the sudden everything detonates really badly and blows the motor. Something went wrong. The methanol kit stopped working, it was out of methanol, the FRP vacuum line broke/fell off, ect.. Unfortunately when the car changed hands from one owner to the next maybe something got lost translation as far as boost levels, where the methanol goes, could you substitute windshield wiper fluid (no), ect.
I'm going to put it on our site because I want everyone to know this. We don't have just anyone build us motors, we use one machine shop that we've used and trusted for a long time and Tim builds our motors in house. He keeps record of every motor with a sheet that he fills out for tolerances, clearances, torque levels, ect. When properly maintained and tuned these engines will put up with a lot of abuse. Our Time attack car same untouched motor from the beginning of last year! 30psi of boost under hard road course use and it still running. Again not saying that everything is bulletproof because parts CAN AND WILL FAIL under high stress situations. Look at a road race motor for a Porsche cup car, they are rated in hours before needing a rebuilt, why? Because they are under high stress!
If you have any other questions or comments please call and speak with me.
Regards,
I just checked the map that was in Steve's car when it was tuned here. Timing is at 2 degrees ramping up to 3 degrees at 5500 and then ramps to 7-10 deg at high rpm's. That BTW is not aggresive and we have the evoscan logs which showed no knock. When we tune high HP cars we also read plugs amongst other things to check the tune. A cad doesn't run fine for a long time and then all the sudden everything detonates really badly and blows the motor. Something went wrong. The methanol kit stopped working, it was out of methanol, the FRP vacuum line broke/fell off, ect.. Unfortunately when the car changed hands from one owner to the next maybe something got lost translation as far as boost levels, where the methanol goes, could you substitute windshield wiper fluid (no), ect.
I'm going to put it on our site because I want everyone to know this. We don't have just anyone build us motors, we use one machine shop that we've used and trusted for a long time and Tim builds our motors in house. He keeps record of every motor with a sheet that he fills out for tolerances, clearances, torque levels, ect. When properly maintained and tuned these engines will put up with a lot of abuse. Our Time attack car same untouched motor from the beginning of last year! 30psi of boost under hard road course use and it still running. Again not saying that everything is bulletproof because parts CAN AND WILL FAIL under high stress situations. Look at a road race motor for a Porsche cup car, they are rated in hours before needing a rebuilt, why? Because they are under high stress!
If you have any other questions or comments please call and speak with me.
Regards,
If money is no issue JUN is the way to go. If you want to save some money for the same results AMS, Buschur or JAM in no particular order. When it comes to building 4G63's in this country I'd only consider these choices.
good luck
good luck
Personally, I decided to go with the Carrillo A-beam rods (520 grams) and Mahle pistons (293 grams) Some of the lightest stuff out there. For camparison Ross pistons weigh 343 grams. JE pistons are 316 grams. I believe the Oliver rods are 576 grams and Eagle H-beam rods (according to the Eagle site) are 480 grams. Rod weights are really hard to come by for some reason.
I do believe that most people will agree the Eagle rods are not the strongest forged rods out there and I think you need the 1st gen DSM bearings to go with those.
Mahle pistons are used in motorsports the world over. I am not sure why they havent caught on here in the states. Not only that....the price is decent (around $460.00) the Carrillo rods are expensive though.
I do believe that most people will agree the Eagle rods are not the strongest forged rods out there and I think you need the 1st gen DSM bearings to go with those.
Mahle pistons are used in motorsports the world over. I am not sure why they havent caught on here in the states. Not only that....the price is decent (around $460.00) the Carrillo rods are expensive though.
JUN is over priced. Stick with companies like AMS.
One quick post to clear mine and Chris's end up.
I just checked the map that was in Steve's car when it was tuned here. Timing is at 2 degrees ramping up to 3 degrees at 5500 and then ramps to 7-10 deg at high rpm's. That BTW is not aggresive and we have the evoscan logs which showed no knock. When we tune high HP cars we also read plugs amongst other things to check the tune. A cad doesn't run fine for a long time and then all the sudden everything detonates really badly and blows the motor. Something went wrong. The methanol kit stopped working, it was out of methanol, the FRP vacuum line broke/fell off, ect.. Unfortunately when the car changed hands from one owner to the next maybe something got lost translation as far as boost levels, where the methanol goes, could you substitute windshield wiper fluid (no), ect.
I'm going to put it on our site because I want everyone to know this. We don't have just anyone build us motors, we use one machine shop that we've used and trusted for a long time and Tim builds our motors in house. He keeps record of every motor with a sheet that he fills out for tolerances, clearances, torque levels, ect. When properly maintained and tuned these engines will put up with a lot of abuse. Our Time attack car same untouched motor from the beginning of last year! 30psi of boost under hard road course use and it still running. Again not saying that everything is bulletproof because parts CAN AND WILL FAIL under high stress situations. Look at a road race motor for a Porsche cup car, they are rated in hours before needing a rebuilt, why? Because they are under high stress!
If you have any other questions or comments please call and speak with me.
Regards,
I just checked the map that was in Steve's car when it was tuned here. Timing is at 2 degrees ramping up to 3 degrees at 5500 and then ramps to 7-10 deg at high rpm's. That BTW is not aggresive and we have the evoscan logs which showed no knock. When we tune high HP cars we also read plugs amongst other things to check the tune. A cad doesn't run fine for a long time and then all the sudden everything detonates really badly and blows the motor. Something went wrong. The methanol kit stopped working, it was out of methanol, the FRP vacuum line broke/fell off, ect.. Unfortunately when the car changed hands from one owner to the next maybe something got lost translation as far as boost levels, where the methanol goes, could you substitute windshield wiper fluid (no), ect.
I'm going to put it on our site because I want everyone to know this. We don't have just anyone build us motors, we use one machine shop that we've used and trusted for a long time and Tim builds our motors in house. He keeps record of every motor with a sheet that he fills out for tolerances, clearances, torque levels, ect. When properly maintained and tuned these engines will put up with a lot of abuse. Our Time attack car same untouched motor from the beginning of last year! 30psi of boost under hard road course use and it still running. Again not saying that everything is bulletproof because parts CAN AND WILL FAIL under high stress situations. Look at a road race motor for a Porsche cup car, they are rated in hours before needing a rebuilt, why? Because they are under high stress!
If you have any other questions or comments please call and speak with me.
Regards,
dont worry about him AMS,im sure you not though..
i will be going to AMS for bottom end,head,jun cams,dual rail intake manifold,2 rails,and which ever inj. they recommend and maybe sell 35R and go 37R...oh and AMS Race FMIC and anything else i may need..
and shep for tranny/tcase
i will be going to AMS for bottom end,head,jun cams,dual rail intake manifold,2 rails,and which ever inj. they recommend and maybe sell 35R and go 37R...oh and AMS Race FMIC and anything else i may need..
and shep for tranny/tcase
dont worry about him AMS,im sure you not though..
i will be going to AMS for bottom end,head,jun cams,dual rail intake manifold,2 rails,and which ever inj. they recommend and maybe sell 35R and go 37R...oh and AMS Race FMIC and anything else i may need..
and shep for tranny/tcase
i will be going to AMS for bottom end,head,jun cams,dual rail intake manifold,2 rails,and which ever inj. they recommend and maybe sell 35R and go 37R...oh and AMS Race FMIC and anything else i may need..
and shep for tranny/tcase
Does Axels Brake Easy On Our All Wheel Drive If U Have 500whp?
All The Power Goes Out To 4 Wheels. Therefore Less Change To Brake Than The Lets Say 2 Wheels Drive.
All Wheel Drive Takes Less Stress On Each Axels?
Just Curious
All The Power Goes Out To 4 Wheels. Therefore Less Change To Brake Than The Lets Say 2 Wheels Drive.
All Wheel Drive Takes Less Stress On Each Axels?
Just Curious


