how bout that clutch
Just a note, it's really cramped for space under there. I had to use some needlenose vice grips to turn the rod. On some cars if you jiggle the clutch pedal you can turn it with your hand. I couldn't so I used the grips.
I am still in the break in period for my car, but if I notice any probs with clutch i will report back to this thread. I really think if the clutch isn't broke in properly it will wear out prematurely
well , the stock clutch is ****e
my seven has 14K and the clutch is already fecked
3 or 4 standing starts only and the car is very slightly moded and its sliping like mad ! ( 320ish flywheel hp), ordering my hks GD max twin plate clutch next week !
my seven has 14K and the clutch is already fecked
3 or 4 standing starts only and the car is very slightly moded and its sliping like mad ! ( 320ish flywheel hp), ordering my hks GD max twin plate clutch next week !
Originally posted by wizardofoz
I must say that I am not the world's greatest launcher and still have not figured it out. I have smelled burning clutch a time or two. My question would be how can you tell a clutch needs to be replaced? I have never needed to replace a clutch on any vehicle I have owned but I have also never owned a 271hp turbo-charged AWD vehicle before.
I must say that I am not the world's greatest launcher and still have not figured it out. I have smelled burning clutch a time or two. My question would be how can you tell a clutch needs to be replaced? I have never needed to replace a clutch on any vehicle I have owned but I have also never owned a 271hp turbo-charged AWD vehicle before.
I don't know about the newer cars, EVOs, WRXs and stuff, but back in the old days, you needed to have some free play (about 3/4 of the way from the floor) before your clutch engages, otherwise you'll burn it up fast. I suggest not messing with the clutch adjustment unless it's clearly off. My suggestion is to stay with the factory specs for adjustment....
If you want a faster grabbing clutch or a more durable clutch, you need to go to a competition type of clutch, maybe with a kevlar friction element. You also need to go with a stronger, stiffer pressure plate. The Miata guys found out all about wearing out clutches when they started turbo charging their engines up to crazy levels of power (180-250 rwhp).
Technique is very important. With the right technique your clutch will last a long time, hard starts and all. With poor technique, it wont last 3 months......
Last edited by silverEVO8; Jun 15, 2003 at 12:34 AM.
Originally posted by silverEVO8
The Miata guys found out all about wearing out clutches when they started turbo charging their engines up to crazy levels of power (180-250 rwhp).
The Miata guys found out all about wearing out clutches when they started turbo charging their engines up to crazy levels of power (180-250 rwhp).
Once you have had a clutch start to slip on you it's pretty obvious (as described 3rd or fourth gear romp on the gas and you will know for sure if it is slipping).
I'm no expert at launching, but I will tell you that high rpm clutch drops are not good for the drive line at all, esp with those sticky *** advan's ... at least on asphalt. You can probably get away with it on a less grippy surface... like dirt or mud or burnished concrete.
In general you want to get the clutch fully engaged as quickly and smoothly as you can IMO. I have yet to launch at much over 3,000 rpms and try to have the clutch engaged fully by 4,000.
Whatever you do.. make sure you have at least a couple hundred miles on the car before you start trying to launch it.. gotta have time for the clutch to bed into the flywheel and pressure plate.
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