I left this on the engine tech forum, I also believe that 1600 is about as high as you should go (under boost) with pump gas. As you can see there are certain conditions even with the stock computer where it will go higher than 1600. I have also found that peak hold is a very usefull feature.
My 2 cents is that I would get a gauge that reads a little higher and if you can afford it, has a peak hold function.

"
Last weekend I installed boost and EGT gauges, I went with APEXI EL II (60mm peak hold and 30 sec play back). I installed the EGT probe about 6" back on the #1 cylinder, I am told this should be the hottest running cylinder? (the reasoning made sense to me, straightest runner on the intake manifold).
I don't have a lot done to the car yet, just a 3" testpipe(no cat), a K&N stock replacement filter, and a BOV. I just recently did a slight mod to the stock BC seloniod so that it makes about 2 PSI more than stock. Boost now goes up to 20-21 PSI and tapers to 18-19 at redline. In the near future I plan to get a wide band O2, oil presure/temp gauges, full 3" exhaust (RMR), and engine management system(waiting on the PFC).
At WOT my EGT's are peaking at around 850C(1560F). As rich as this car is supposed to be running, I would have expected the temps to be a bit lower. Of course I have no point of reference for these motors. Even with mildly aggresive driving I see around 800C(1470F). At part throttle (no Boost) I ran it up 6-7K and held it there for a few seconds and temps went up to 900C(1650F) most cars run lean at part throttle for fuel economy so...

I was hoping to get more feedback on what sort of temps everyone else is seeing? Please indicate probe position, Modifications, and state of tune, A/F ratios would be great. I have seen cases were running very rich will cause the EGT's to go high due to fuel igniting in the manifold so... If this is not the case then I would be leary about leanning the fuel out to much more. I know you can make more power at 900C-950C but I am not sure how reliable it would be at that point, (I preferr road racing so...).

 

Oh boy, this is the kind of thing that makes me want to go with a higher range meter... I wonder why some folks get such different readings from others? could it be that there is such wide variance in the specs or state of tune of various engines?

 

I don't think so, it probably has more to do with the type of gauge/sensor they are using, and/or the probe position.
Some of the numbers I have seen reported are so low compared to what I and many others are seeing, I almost suspect there is something faulty with there gauge/sensor.
From my own experience, 800-900C (1470F-1650F) are typical EGT's for most turbo charged engines at WOT.

 

I think thats too high.. why would there be a guage..used for over 20 years, that only goes up to 1600?

True test would be to do some benchmarking on the same car with different gauges

 

Just got done with a exetensive dyno session - - what I saw was that the evo made th most power when the EGT's were at 825 - (probe 2" out of cylinder in manifold) - that corresponded to a a/f raio of 11.8 which seemed to make the most wpoer for me - (NOTE - I would not go higher than 11.8 so I have no idea if the car could make more power at slightly over 12 - I dont want to take any chances)

When the a/f came down closer to 11.1 the egt's fell to 800 and below 11.0 in the 10 range the egt's were below 800

 

Great Info!!! I also realize on the Dyno that the Evo made better power just a tad under 12.0 a/f. Did you notice how lean the car gets at part throttle?

 

Joe, did you remove the manifold off the blower or somehow protected the blower from any chips when you drilled and tapped the probe hole? Also, did you use some kind of penetrating oil or WD40 on the heat shield bolt before you removed it? I just went out to see if I could remove the heat shield bolt and could not budge it with a small 1/4 drive ratchet & the 12 mm socket.....

 

silverEVO8--

You have to be brave enough to do it the first time, but you can drill and tap the manifold while it's on the car. The "trick" is that it has to be running to blow the pieces away from the hole. I've done this myself countless times, though it was extremely difficult for me to get out there and do it the first time. It does work though and you'll feel every little hot shard on your hands/arms/face to prove it

It does get hot, especially the tapping part since exhaust will be blowing on your hands through the already drilled hole. Thick gloves (like landscaping or a welding) will help a lot, as will long sleeves and of course some eye protection.

*Always* use some type of lubricant when drilling and tapping. If you don't have access to cutting fluid, even 10W-30 will do in a pinch.

A 1/4" drive probably just isn't enough to leverage to break the bolts. I doubt the car is old enough to actually snap one trying to take it off, but penetrating oil a few hours before hand always helps. PB Blaster is the best stuff I've ever used (Pep Boys should have it).

And the last "tip" for this method: before you drill the hole, make sure you are far enough away from the head that you can fit and turn the tap without hitting it

Of course, your other option is to pull the manifold off completely, which is a lot more work. If you have any reservations about doing it on the car, I would suggest just pulling the manifold for your own peace of mind. I am just tossing out "my" way as an option. Pulling the manifold is more work, but you'll get a feel for working on the car and you are more or less guaranteed no metal frags will find their way through your turbine housing (assuming you clean it out perfectly when you're done

I guess I lost my spare probe fitting and just got back from picking up a replacement, so hopefully I'll get my EGT installed this weekend or early next week. I will be installing it using the "on the car" method.

 

Hey, thanks for the info... You are the first one to explain about the hot exhaust gasses blowing back at you when you drill and tap . Of course, I should have thought about it but I did not.... By the way, just how strong is the exhaust blowing through that hole you are drilling? Also, I've always had better luck tapping with a cordless drill than with a hand tap... I know about using cutting oil or something like that... I've broken taps before . I think we also have one of those tapered reamers around here so we can prepare the hole properly...

 

SmokinJoe- I really like your probe set-up, it looks neat, clean, and easy to get to. Did you just remove the heat shield bolt and tap through the center of the threaded bolt-hole for the probe? I had the heat shield off a while back, but can't remember if the holes go all the way through and into the manifold chamber?

Also did you have to re-thread the bolt hole or were the original threads sufficient (1/4 npt I think?)?

Silver Surfer- Can you elaborate on the stock FBC mod you made to add 2 psi? I had the stock solenoid off and it had no restrictors inserted in the nipples. Did you drill it out slightly? Perhaps open it up and make a mod inside? Inquiring minds (at least mine!)would like to know!!

 

silverEVO8--

It's a little breeze...feel your exhaust at the tip. I mean you aren't going to have your face burnt off or anything , but you'll need to stop every few seconds to cool down if you're not wearing gloves. You'll probably need to anyway to reapply fluid...the hot manifold will make short work of it.

I usually turn the idle up (like 1200-1500RPM) so there's more exhaust coming out to ensure all the frags go OUT. I usually work by myself so I just turn the idle up, but someone can just hold the gas pedal to a higher RPM if you have someone there.

The shards themselves can get some distance like that. The channels in the drill bit/tap make some pretty good jetstreams compared to just the open hole (lotta air through a smaller space).

Guess I shoulda mentioned the high idle thingy in my last post, so it's good that you asked

HTH

 

Yes it looks like it stays at 14.0 or close to it on criuse

 

There is a very small restrictor pill in the vacum hose comming from the waste gate to the selonoid. It is in the hose near the selonoid about 1"-2" in. If you remove this restrictor pill you get about 2 PSI more across the board (20-21PSI tapering to 18-19PSI). My car never made more than 18PSI stock, now it is the lowest boost level I see. I have not dynoed with the higher boost yet, but it definitely seems to pull harder.
It does occasionally spike above 21 PSI in the lower rpm's especially in 4th/5th gear (no cat so...), when this happens the CPU seems to get excited and kicks the boost down momentarily to 18-19 PSI. I had a thought that this might be the super seceret power adding mod that the dealer service people are supposed to know about??
A seperate BC will be slightly more consistant, but it is a simple PO boy power adding mod.
I am installing a MBC, wide band O2, oil tmep gauge, and RMR down pipe this weekend(still waiting for the RMR cat back and PFC), I am curious to see what my A/F ratios look like.

 

Thanks. I try for two things when modding my car - funtionality and appearance. Usually a little extra effort is all it takes. Anway, the head shield is held on by 4 bolts and removes easily. Be careful to watch your valve cover when removing the headshield so not to scratch it. The holes aren't threaded for the 1/8NPT nor do they go straight through. Drill for the NPT tap first, go down only 3/4's as far as the threads on the fitting - increase 3 to 4 diff bit sizes to get the hole the correct size for the tap - blow the shavings out (with a compressor). Make sure your final bit size is correct for the NPT tap. Then drill down for the probe till you are just about punch through, blow the shavings out. To keep the heat down, wait till you are a good way down before starting the car - the shavings wont hurt the turbine blades. Let the car cool. Now tap for the NPT fitting - it takes some time so use care in setting the threads. Start the car very quickly to push out the remaining pieces (if any). Replace the headshield and THEN thread in the NPT fitting, EGT probe and connect to the gauge.

 

Well the temperatures are what they are, from what most others are reading these seem to be typical values. These temps are with the stock ECU, if you think they are way to high.. talk to Mitsubishi.
The gauge that you referr to may be intended for large displacement normally asspirated engines, far more common in the hot rod seen 20 years ago. They typicaly run much lower EGT's compared to a high reving turbo engines.
I find that most gauges loose accuracy when they get close to the limit of there range. That is why I recommend a gauge where your typical operating values will be well within its operating range.