600+ whp again, this is getting boring....
I was being a smart *** about the 600+ being boring and I know you were being sarcastic about the 700 being better
BUT, it brings up a good point.
It is getting much easier to make 600 whp on a regular basis, so I made the comment. It still isn't "easy" as everything needs to be right and someone has to be willing to run high boost and understand that boost and RPM are what will wear out an engine fastest.
In the begining of having EVO's here in the US it was very difficult to keep bearings in them. Now with so many builds for the last year+ it is no problem at any level of power. The machine work has been changed, parts and techniques used in assembly.
Before I get too off course I also want to point out that after we finish a complete build like this the car is brought back into the shop after the dyno work is done. We check the car over, one of the things we do while doing this is pull off the oil filter and cut it open. The filter is then taken apart to check each pleat in the filter to make sure there is no bearing material or other foreign objects. It is by far the best way to insure the engine is not only in great shape right them but it is going to stay that way. An engine that is not assembled correctly or that is not going to last will show up in the oil fiter in a very short time.
So, back to the power level. As I have said 100 times, I do not personally like a big laggy turbo for a street EVO. The GT35 and "37r" are not fun turbos, in my opinion, to drive daily. The "37r" is at the upper end of the limit for any street driven car. 20 psi on a 2 liter around 4800 rpm. A green will do it at 3500, that's a fun turbo to drive.
Making 700 whp isn't a problem at all. It is just rare that we talk a customer through a build and that's what they decide they want. We get calls for guys that want a GT42 or GT45 street car. Generally when the call is over they realize the car is going to suck to drive and decide not to do it. To date we've only built 3-GT42 equipped EVO's. That in our opinion makes it a drag car and just making an EVO a drag car is a waste.
I'd much rather build someone a kick *** street car that can stop, turn, accelerate all extremely well. They may as well listen to a kick butt radio and watch some TV while they are at it.
Also for the 100th time, let me put into perspective just how much 600+ is on our dyno. I realize that talking 600 whp in a world that hears about 1,000 whp on Dynojets doesn't sound like a lot of power..........
My RS, with driver, weighs in around 3150. On BFG drag radials, driving it out to the track, ran 9.97 at 142.32 mph with 542 whp on our dyno.
My brothers car made 640 last year, it is full weight. A/C, all sound deadening intact, crappy tires, had a hard time shifting, he ran 10.1 at 145 mph. He is going well into the 9's this year, wait and see.
Curt Brown made 640 on our dyno, with his car on slicks he ran 9.33 at 150 mph.
So, as you can see, these power levels combined with a car set up properly and a good driver, make for some killer times, some of the fastest being run, regardless of dyno numbers.
BUT, it brings up a good point. It is getting much easier to make 600 whp on a regular basis, so I made the comment. It still isn't "easy" as everything needs to be right and someone has to be willing to run high boost and understand that boost and RPM are what will wear out an engine fastest.
In the begining of having EVO's here in the US it was very difficult to keep bearings in them. Now with so many builds for the last year+ it is no problem at any level of power. The machine work has been changed, parts and techniques used in assembly.
Before I get too off course I also want to point out that after we finish a complete build like this the car is brought back into the shop after the dyno work is done. We check the car over, one of the things we do while doing this is pull off the oil filter and cut it open. The filter is then taken apart to check each pleat in the filter to make sure there is no bearing material or other foreign objects. It is by far the best way to insure the engine is not only in great shape right them but it is going to stay that way. An engine that is not assembled correctly or that is not going to last will show up in the oil fiter in a very short time.
So, back to the power level. As I have said 100 times, I do not personally like a big laggy turbo for a street EVO. The GT35 and "37r" are not fun turbos, in my opinion, to drive daily. The "37r" is at the upper end of the limit for any street driven car. 20 psi on a 2 liter around 4800 rpm. A green will do it at 3500, that's a fun turbo to drive.
Making 700 whp isn't a problem at all. It is just rare that we talk a customer through a build and that's what they decide they want. We get calls for guys that want a GT42 or GT45 street car. Generally when the call is over they realize the car is going to suck to drive and decide not to do it. To date we've only built 3-GT42 equipped EVO's. That in our opinion makes it a drag car and just making an EVO a drag car is a waste.
I'd much rather build someone a kick *** street car that can stop, turn, accelerate all extremely well. They may as well listen to a kick butt radio and watch some TV while they are at it.
Also for the 100th time, let me put into perspective just how much 600+ is on our dyno. I realize that talking 600 whp in a world that hears about 1,000 whp on Dynojets doesn't sound like a lot of power..........
My RS, with driver, weighs in around 3150. On BFG drag radials, driving it out to the track, ran 9.97 at 142.32 mph with 542 whp on our dyno.
My brothers car made 640 last year, it is full weight. A/C, all sound deadening intact, crappy tires, had a hard time shifting, he ran 10.1 at 145 mph. He is going well into the 9's this year, wait and see.
Curt Brown made 640 on our dyno, with his car on slicks he ran 9.33 at 150 mph.
So, as you can see, these power levels combined with a car set up properly and a good driver, make for some killer times, some of the fastest being run, regardless of dyno numbers.
Dave thanks for all the info and practical advice on turbo selection for a daily driver. I have one question which I'm hoping you can answer. I'm considering trashing my AMS intercooler for your race version. My question is regarding this quote:
Do you mean 8 degree rise in intake temps from idle or 1st gear, to the end of 4th? Or do you mean 8 degree rise above ambient temperature? Where is the intake temp sensor located also?
Do you mean 8 degree rise in intake temps from idle or 1st gear, to the end of 4th? Or do you mean 8 degree rise above ambient temperature? Where is the intake temp sensor located also?
Dave thanks for all the info and practical advice on turbo selection for a daily driver. I have one question which I'm hoping you can answer. I'm considering trashing my AMS intercooler for your race version. My question is regarding this quote:
Do you mean 8 degree rise in intake temps from idle or 1st gear, to the end of 4th? Or do you mean 8 degree rise above ambient temperature? Where is the intake temp sensor located also?
Do you mean 8 degree rise in intake temps from idle or 1st gear, to the end of 4th? Or do you mean 8 degree rise above ambient temperature? Where is the intake temp sensor located also?
So I am asking, what is the net increase over ambient which you saw? Meaning if ambient is 50F and intake temp is 80F = 30F increase.
Sorry I guess I'm not being clear. From my datalogs I don't see much movement in intake temps either. The important question is the increase above ambient (or even better is increase over temp pre-turbo but most won't have a probe here so ambient is good enough).
So I am asking, what is the net increase over ambient which you saw? Meaning if ambient is 50F and intake temp is 80F = 30F increase.
So I am asking, what is the net increase over ambient which you saw? Meaning if ambient is 50F and intake temp is 80F = 30F increase.
Dam very nice especially for a 10hr trip and no problems great build , thats what I want to do drive down to FL right after its built .
Im planning an ultimate "STREET" Evo build, just what David Bushur likes to build





