Alright,

I've done my searching for parts and I've found a lot of mixed responses. I am considering just replacing the factory specified parts for the 60k maintenance, which appear to be the following:

• Timing Belt
• Balance Shaft Belt
• Hydraulic Tensioner (aka. Tensioner Adjuster)

Of course it is always a good idea to replace all associated timing parts for preventative maintenance, but what I want to know is how many people have had the following ("extra") parts fail on them after not replacing them at 60K. If so, when did they fail? Mainly, I am worried about the bearings in the pulleys. DSM input is welcome as well.

• Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
• Timing Belt Idler Pulley
• Water Pump
• Balance Shaft Tensioner Pulley

The timing belt job will be done while I am out of town by a Tech friend of mine. Labor is reasonably cheap and I have no problem replacing these other parts at 100K.


FYI, part number list for any future searchers:

http://www.rockvillemitsubishi.com/p...vice/parts.jsp


Thanks in advance for your replies.



Devin

 

You are wanting to know how far you can push parts. Well, I never tried to do that.

I did the first belt job on my '92 DSM at 52,000 miles and found the timing belt loose and the balance shaft belt very loose. Back then Mitsu was having quality problems with belts. Cars from years '90 and '91 were recalled to replace the timing belt. Year '92 should have been included.

The weep hole on the water pump also exhibited a stain at this first belt change - a very slow leak, possibly it was starting to fail.

I replaced everything that had a bearing, the tensioner and the pump. I did the same thing again at 90,000 miles.

I was planning to purchase a kit from Buschur and do seals at the third belt change but instead I traded the car for my Evo.

When on the road and a long way from home it was comforting to know that all the timing belt parts were new. I can recommend that peace of mind feeling.

 

Understood, I'm not trying to push parts, but rather I'm just trying to find out if anyone who followed the regular service schedule had any problems with the parts not scheduled to replace until later in the life of the car.

I appreciate you're input though. Peace of mind is definitely a bonus. I'm just wondering about failures, though. That being said, my belts aren't loose, but are showing wear at 59K.


Devin

 

I just did my timing belt maintenance for 60k. However, I was at 68k LOL. I just did the first three listed and not the remaining. I dont think its entirely necessary. I did all of them on my 90 AWD DSM at 120k because it was 120.

 

Bump for testimonials.


Devin

 

I think most people will just replace everything in there at that time for the matter of conveinence and reliability. Just easier to replace everything now, than at 100k going in and doing a water pump... I'd do all you can do to it while it's down.

 

I had 98k on my evo when the timing belt broke. The last 6 months of that it was making more than 500 AWHP. The belt didn't even break on it's own. When the rod came through the block it took out the balance shaft that the timing belt turns and shattered the gear on the end of it.

 

How hard is it to change the timing belt?

 

I remember the first week after I did my first belt job on my dsm, it was very nerve racking. All I replaced was the main belt, balance belt, and tensioner. Went back in a week later and replaced all the pulleys and water pump because I couldnt stand not knowing if i was a second away from a valve job

 

I did the first three in your list at 57K miles. I saved the pulley's and waterpump for a later date. I plan on pulling the motor soon, and used that in my decision to only do the parts mentioned.

The pulleys and waterpump should give some tell tale signs of pending failure, unlike a timing belt or tensioner that could just snap or leak it's hydraulic fluid out all at once. So you do have a bit of a safety margin on the pulleys and waterpump, albeit maybe just a few miles, but you'll know something isn't quite right before grenading the engine. It'll give you time to pull over or not take the car that day.

 

It is a long and rather complicated process. However, nothing is 'hard' if you understand what you are doing. The entire time you are working in confined spaces. Shop mechanics have repeatedly gotten either the cams or the balance shaft driven off of the oil pump out of time. The cams may move once the belt is off due to valve spring pressure. If the belt is off but one tooth the engine will be down on power. The tension of the main belt has to be set just so or the tensioner will run out of travel allowing the belt to become loose.

If you have never done this before and want to give it a try, spend some time studying the shop manual. The section on the timing belt is very complete and lists all the various ways of doing this job that have been developed over the years. Also, begin collecting any special tools that you will need.

One technique I really recommend, once all of the timing marks are lined up, is to make marks at each pulley or sprocket using paint and also mark the old belts. Then transfer the marks from the old belts to the new belts. Then when the new belts are in place and all the marks line up everything should be in time.

 

Do the first 3 and wait until the next belt change to do the pullies and water pump. DSMs are notorious POS, that is why we change everything at the same time. The Evos are all relatively new and slightly updated in the design of these critical components. Do what the factory recommends. My pullies and water pump were fine on my 90 GSX at 85k, I'm sure the same will be true with my Evo. As a matter of fact I would only do the belts unless the factory recommends the auto tensioner at the same time.

 

I did my first timing belt on a DSM in about 5 hours if I remember correctly. Just make a checklist of everything youll need and make sure you have another vehicle to run to the auto store if you dont have a tool you need.
btw, the first time I did mine, I didnt have air tools. So, I had to fabricate a crank pulley bar to hold the pulley in place. Impact wrench will pop it loose without spinning, and air tools in general will cut down your time by at least 30%