How To: Make a High Priced Poorly Designed IC
Piping on both ends are custom. Cold side is a modified injen setup, hotside is made completely from scrap, when I bolt it up today I will show you what it looks like.
Scorke
Scorke
We use a Bead Form bead roller w/ the crank handle. A rolled bead also makes it easier to slide the couplers on and off when the clamp is loose. Sometimes when you weld a bead, the bead is too large and makes installing/removing the couplers a SOB!
a weld is more inconsistant than a nice rolled bead would be, so there would be more of a chance for pressure to seap through the inconsistant weld. im sure u wont have any problem with it though. im concerned about the location of the outlets, they look too high for the piping to fit. have u test fitted them yet?
i cant wait to see some pics of the whole set up and some numbers man. i want some 93 octane numbers weather u like it or not.
ps, last time i had Zoe make anything for me, it turned out like shiot, literally!!! yes this is vendor bashing. haha
i cant wait to see some pics of the whole set up and some numbers man. i want some 93 octane numbers weather u like it or not.
ps, last time i had Zoe make anything for me, it turned out like shiot, literally!!! yes this is vendor bashing. haha
I was in a pinch and it worked well for the time being.
badhabit90, that is not the right kind of bead roller for what is trying to be done. We have a large bead roller like that but it is made for doing large flat panel of sheet aluminum or steel. The bead roller used for doing tubing is different. It is important that the bead roll remain very straight around the tubing.
okay it was fixed. clicked on the wrong one. sooo, you use one like this???
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...=PRODUCT:beer:
looks like you can get one that will do up to 4" pipe...
Here's the one we use.
http://www.vansantent.com/bead_tool.htm
http://www.vansantent.com/bead_tool.htm
Scorke,
Great job. Quick comment if you don't want to have to beld a bead all the way around the IC inlet/oulet.
Did you ever think of welding a little tie bar to go from the inlet to the IC pipe and the same for the outlet to the IC pipe? That would be a lot easier than welding a whole bead and it would never blow off, no matter what PSI you plan to run.
Eric
Edit: Here's a picture of what I mean. This is from a book by A. Graham Bell called Forced Induction Performance Tuning.
Great job. Quick comment if you don't want to have to beld a bead all the way around the IC inlet/oulet.
Did you ever think of welding a little tie bar to go from the inlet to the IC pipe and the same for the outlet to the IC pipe? That would be a lot easier than welding a whole bead and it would never blow off, no matter what PSI you plan to run.
Eric
Edit: Here's a picture of what I mean. This is from a book by A. Graham Bell called Forced Induction Performance Tuning.
Last edited by l2r99gst; May 4, 2007 at 01:46 PM.
Core was 24x14x3.5 I believe I posted it earlier, maybe not?
I had not thought of doing what you have shown but that might not be a bad idea, im confident with t bolt clamps for now and some hairspray
Drifto, don't worry, no gaps
Scorke
I had not thought of doing what you have shown but that might not be a bad idea, im confident with t bolt clamps for now and some hairspray
Drifto, don't worry, no gaps
Scorke
Wow, Sam that IC cam out nice and the turbo kit looks awesome. Looks like you are almost done with the car. Let me know before you crank it so we can re-check your cam timing and timing belt. Holla