thanks for your input again. Now that you have explained it, it makes more sense.

This was one of my first questions (whether dealers are experienced enough to install aftermarket pistons/rods etc). I guess i'll use my free labour somewhere else (paint, clutch install etc)

 

 

save your free labor for the clutch you'll need once you hit 400-450 whp.

 

You can't just slap new pistons in the cylinders without the cylinders being honed first at a machine shop. You can, but your rings won't seat very well and it won't get good compression numbers. The machining has to be done at a machine shop, from there anyone can assemble an engine if you know how to use feeler gauges and have a ring file. I assembled my engine in my DSM, but I had the machine shop order the bearings rods and pistons. Definitely not something I would ever let the dealer near.

If you keep your revs at or below 8k your engine will last forever, if you plan to rev over 8k I would look into rod bolts. With a 50 trim I don't see any reason to rev that high. You could just make everything easy and get a green and keep the revs no higher than 8k. You will make your numbers and have a lot more torque.

 

^
thanks. after much reading and seeing peoples opinions on the matter, i've decided against it

 

there is a bunch of stuff you could use the labor on that Im sure your going to want to do eventually anyways, cams,turbo swap, clutch, future diag ect dealers have a way of soaking up hours very fast so use it wisely

 

I run an AMS 50 trim on a built 2.0l and while it is fantastic, I would not recommend it if you're just looking at it from a reliability standpoint.

I'm going to assume that you are not going to start running racegas in the car ... so ... if I was in your shoes I would seriously consider doing the following:
get an FP Green instead of a 50 trim, upgrade the injectors, upgrade the valvetrain, get a larger IC, get a good tune, and call it a day. This way you should still have enough money in your pocket for a new clutch down the road.

l8r)

 

I would say that is great advice until you said valvetrain. This guy unless running serious cams is definitely not going to need any valvetrain components upgraded. Also, if he does take the advice of going Green, that means even less revving since that turbo doesnt even need (or shouldnt be) revved to 8000. 8000 is fine on the stock valvetrain anyway. 8500 everyday Id say maybe get it.

 

^ I disagree, since I had two valves go bad on my stock head. That was revving to 7800 RPM with HKS 272 cams. I now run a Supertech valvetrain and rev past 8500 all day long with no problems.

l8r)

 

Well you are a special case then. People on here have been revving past 8000 for years with no problems. People have gone to 8500 on the stock valvetrain with no problems. Hell, Ive been going to 7500-8000 for 70,000 miles and its fine. I would say you had a rare case in that going wrong, just like the guy who blew the motor with 370whp and claims now you need to get a built motor even when running the stock turbo

 

While _some_ people may be revving their stock valvetrains that high, I have yet to see a reputable shop recommend revving the stock valvetrain past 8000 RPM. Most seem to agree that 7800 RPM is about the limit and some even go so far as to recommend getting better springs and retainers even with the milder HKS cams.

Since the original poster seemed to be concerned with longevity as opposed to performance, I recommended upgrading the valvetrain. The stock valvetrain was not designed to accomodate 8000+ RPM.

l8r)

 

I agree with you just about all the way, however, I just dont see this guy needing a valvetrain, especially if taking the advice and going to Green route. The stock rev limit is at 7500-7600 stock, which leaves even then some more room. Springs and retainers with HKS cams is a waste, period. You will not see any reputable shops that I know of reccomend such a thing. Also, could you trust the SELLERS of valvetrain components to tell you that you need them anyway? If you are going to go past 8000rpm everyday, I would reccomend a valvetrain, otherwise I would definitely not touch them.

 

If he doesn't muck with the stock fuel cut, then I agree, there would be no point in upgrading the valvetrain. With an FP Green on an otherwise stock block and intake, there really wouldn't be any need to bump up the redline anyways.

All I'm saying in regards to upgrading springs and retainers is that once you start pushing past the stock limits, you'll start to negatively impact their longevity. In my case it took about a year and 20,000 miles to materialize. As the saying goes, YMMV.

At least now the OP can make a more educated decision.

l8r)

 

 

My honest opinion would be just to leave the internals alone, and don't let the dealer s touch it. Not too many dealers have qualified evo techs and I'm sure you're aware of how "special" our cars are. Just wait until you blow the motor before you do anything. I understand you have the free labor hours but is it really worth the risk? I mean they probably can't even perform a proper oil change (using the a tool provided by mitsu to pump the oil which gets stuck in teh oil cooling lines). If you want to keep your motor running for longer just don't push it so hard. According to a local shop (very reputable btw), the stock internals can take up to 500+hp.

I agree with the other guys with the turbo upgrade, and the redline should be changed in accordance to your powerband and where you want the power or torque to start on the next gear up. As you know the IX 5 speeds give you a 500rpm drop from 1 to 4th and to 5th is a1500 according to my friend and then the 6 speed is a 1000rpm drop from 1 to 6. I would leave that to the tuner and whatever you're building this car for.