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Built 2.0

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Old May 22, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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Built 2.0

I have been thinking lately to build my 2.0. I don't plan on going past 450whp but i intend on going with a 50 trim and keeping the car for a long time. I've done quite a bit of reading, and concluded that a built 2.0 consists mainly of pistons, rods and bearing.

Gruppe-s is having a crazy sale going on and i can get the pistons (wiseco as i recall) eagle rods and bearings for as little as $700 or so.

I have around 20+ free labor hours at the dealer (long story), so i won't be paying for labor fees.

My concerns/questions

1) Is installing aftermarket pistons/rods/bearings any different then stock pistons/rods etc? i dont want my dealer to mess up

2) What piston size should i get? i don't understand the difference between 85, 85.5 or 86 sizes in pistons. I have a stock euro spec evo ix block

3) Can the pistons/rods/bearings run on stock ECU? Will i need a retune/flash?

4) What RPM can i rev to safely? cams and springs retainers will be installed as well.

I don't want to run into problems later so i thought i'd do it now since i will only be paying $700 for the pistons and all

Opinions and answers to questions would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old May 22, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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dont rebuild unless u need to , looks like u have a IX prob not many miles , 50 trim is perfect on stock engine, guarantee major bull**** down the road when the dealer is rebuilding an engine, just my 2 cents. lata
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Old May 22, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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not money miles u are correct. A little over 12,000 Miles to be exact.
You don't recommend it even thought it's only gona cost me $700 ? I like to look at it from a safety perspective. Or is it completely not needed?
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Old May 22, 2007 | 02:36 PM
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a built 2.0 done the right way cost about 3000 my rods cost me 700 alone.
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Old May 22, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Thats one of my questions .. what does a built 2.0 comprise of? Mainly pistons/rods/bearings right?
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:18 AM
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bump for some answers to my questions ..
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:32 AM
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Depending how many rpms you want to set your rpms to you might need a new crank if you want to see past 9,000 RPM or close to there. If you're only interested in pistons and rods then yes, the install should be the same unless they decide to bore the block out a little more if you go with 85.5 or 86mm pistons. The larger piston diameter will yield slightly more displacement, that is all and stock displacement is at 85mm.

Most likely you won't need a reflash, since nothing much is changing in power and fuel consumptions, but it also wouldn't hurt. However, since you want a higher rev range you might want to think about reflashing as well (to raise the rev limiter) but if I were you I'de wait until to get more parts. I would say 8,000 would be safe for you since you want your engine to last and you have the supporting mods. I would be afraid if you went higher with an unbalanced crank (thats just me).
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:34 AM
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i think the 50 trim is a perfect turbo for what your looking for power wise
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:38 AM
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I forgot to add that if you choose either diameter pistons, you might want to think about your compression ratio in terms of how high or low you want it depending on how much boost you want to run. If you can get the pistons with a stock 8.8:1 compression ratio then a flash might not be needed but if you get either higher or lower you MIGHT need a flash.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:45 AM
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timmiii

thanks for the info bro! I don't think i'll go higher then 8,000rpm.

what do u think of my choice for eagle rods and wiseco pistons? or should i look into other brands.

would i need aftermarket valves?
What other gaskets to i need? (other then the regular $50 headgasket )

Thanks!
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:58 AM
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If it's low miles and you can't pass the deal up, buy but don't install. Race motors are often built off a well broken platform, they are not necessarily crate motors. I have 22k on mine (mostly track and highway miles) and it's just now starting to feel broken in. I'm running >400whp on 93octane and thought I'd be stressing the motor, but like I said, she's just starting to break in.

Your money, your decision - You seem intelligent, don't spend money to spend money or satisfy ego.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 07:03 AM
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thing is i want to take advantage of the free labour im getting at the dealer! The same guy might not be there in a couple of years if something happens to my engine.

i'm already getting my cams and spring/retainers installed for free, i thought i'd do pistons/rods/bearings as well.

I just don't want to pay for a new engine overhaul if it ever happens. Free labour is playing mind games with me !
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Old May 23, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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I wouldnt let the dealer do an oil change on my car let alone build the damn motor.

Dont start looking at parts and say "I can build the motor for only xx". There is nothing wrong with your motor and more importantly, you dont plan to make enough power to even warrant needing a built motor.

Do yourself a favor and leave it alone.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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Soon2BEVO

You haven't really answered any of my questions. But thanks for your opinion anyway
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Old May 23, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by yikez
Soon2BEVO

You haven't really answered any of my questions. But thanks for your opinion anyway

You havent asked any of the right questions, that is the problem. You're reasoning for building the motor is no good. You are going to end up lessening the reliability of the car in the first place by not having a reputable engine shop build it for you. I dont think you see it right. Building an engine is not like Legos. It must be done by skilled professionals and all the knowledgable people on these boards know they would only usually send their motors to AMS, Buschur, or Jackson Auto Machine for a reason. The fact you are even CONSIDERING having the dealer put together a motor with pistons and rods (which you DONT EVEN NEED) is just ridiculous. Try and see it from the right point of view, because yours is most certinaly skewed.

Now I just saw something with springs and retainers. That will not help with reliability either, hell it will probably reduce it again. Unless you are running high lift cams (JUN, Tomei, Revolver) you DONT NEED THEM. I am not sure what cams you are running or planning to run so I will leave that alone but I hope for your sake you see what Im saying.
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