+1 for Dave.....I found this about a year ago. It might help for some of those who might not understand why.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

When I picked up my Evo....To Redline it went, 30seconds after it left the dealership. Maybe a few times on the ride home too.

 

in response to all this

http://www.caranddriver.com/longroad...tion-viii.html

so what is it, easy or hard? im so damn confused and im rebuilding my motor this month, so what the **** should i do.

 

I just finished rebuilding the motor in my gvr4 and broke it in the hard way.
We started it up, held it at 2000rpm for about 3min while we checked everything, shut it down and changed the oil/filter. Started it back up drove it about 5 miles to get DSMLink setup then back to the shop to change the oil.

Then I did:
2 pulls at 25% throttle from 2k to 7k
2 pulls at 50% throttle from 3k to 7k
2 pulls at 100% throttle from 3k to 7k

After each pull I just took my foot off the gas and let it slow down on its own while in gear. That helps seat the rings in. After the pulls I did some more spirited driving (not racing) on the way home and thats it. I have to go back to the shop to change the oil again and do a compression test.

 

thats a oldie but goodie..i broke in all my ccs,wera road race bikes in that way!!
always had a strong motor.hell i did it with the sti and the evo..also

 

quick question that I think is relevant...

What about the people who don't do builds in stages?

I'm getting all my parts together then installing at once.

Motor has been built by AMS and has shipped.....clutch is a brand new tilton twin carbon...

Question is....Are the break ins for the clutch and motor going to be conflicting? and is this going to affect my motor or clutch in a way where one is broken in correctly while the other isn't?

 

I would strongly sugest breaking in the clutch b4 putting the new motor in.u cant beat on the clutch to break it in.

 

I did the same thing with a complete build, you can still break it in properly all together. Just follow AMS's guidlines becuase it is there motor, they will tell you don't baby the car but don't beat on it also. You will recieve these instructions along with your motor and if you need more specific answers just call or pm and they will set you straight.

 

I think from what I've read and heard from tuners, it's not that you have to go out and run 40 psi in the first 10 minutes. But a lot of people say that the rings do a lot of sealing in the first 20 minutes. So make sure you put yourself in a situation to run about 10 - 20 psi of boost within the first 20 minutes. This means making sure you can get the tune spot on, not be tinkering with a million different things. I'm pretty sure after you slip a Tilton for about 10 minutes you can run 10 psi of boost ok.

When I first started my 2.4 I had a good base map to start from a 2.2 with same turbo and cams as I had. The map needed just a bit of tweaking and with Autronic the fueling is so easy to map. The ignition map I didn't touch as it was already on the conservative side and there was no det.

So within literally 5 or 10 minutes of first startup I was running 10 psi of boost. I purposefully took springs out my wastegate to make sure I could run as low as 10 psi of boost when first running the new engine.

All that said, my tuner Mark from MADevelopements has built and mapped A LOT of engines and he says he has broken them in all sorts of ways and never seen any difference.

 

yeah..already got a copy of the break in instructions...
thanks for the help

 

you got pm...

 

anyway we can see these instructions?

 

click here
http://www.amsperformance.com/instru...structions.pdf

 

thanks!

 

I just referenced a customer to check out this thread and over the last few days ive had questions about breaking in an engine.

I just wanted to bring this back to the surface for those that may not have seen it before.

 

good info....break ins are for babies