I see a trend with certain dyno tuners who are jacking up the boost for customers on the dyno to achive huge dyno numbers. I think what they must do is then turn down the boost when the car comes off the dyno as no one with a rational mind of going to run about with say 24 - 25 psi of boost on pump gas.

Here is an example of a dyno sheet and tune set up to run a genuine 21 psi peak boost that I recomend

The car had Stage I mods - intake - mbc and exhuast with pump and a reflash by myself

I would like to see the community a little more savy about inquiring what kind of boost is used to get "X" number on a dyno. Jacking up crazy boost and running it with knock counts to me is just a waste of time and not really relevant.






You can see the real world boost levels in the 2nd dyno sheet

For too many members the peak numbers are all they care about

For a savy tuner, the shape of the curve, area under the curve and smoothness are what really matters

AL

 

your dynoflash on my car was run at 23psi and the curve was pretty awesome, my custom tune at 23psi looks exactly the same as your mail-in minus the fact that its obviously less conservative. In fact my boost went down slightly on the custom tune.

 

Isnt it better to run less boost and more timing anyway?

 

Well I was tuned at 23PSI on 91 octane pump gas and for over 20,000 miles I haven't had a single problem (except for my clutch).

 

You see I just don't understand why you (Al) are sometimes ultra conservative with your EVO tunes, yet tune STIs at 20PSI+ on their stock tiny *** turbos. Then you have all these STI owners talking all this sh*t, knowing good and well they will not see much more power because their stock turbos are pretty close to maxed out. So are you telling me the STI stock turbo is safely able to handle over 6PSI increase yet the EVO IX stock turbo cannot even handle an increase of 3PSI? Do you seriously consider 23PSI on 93 octane crazy boost levels

 

for the record i was very happy with my mail-in.

 

Haha, Someone was talking about how you do the same exact thing a couple days ago

 

Yet another Dynoflush post that will only result in a flame fest...

Why bother posting?

l8r)

 

true

 

Well I dont see what the big deal with some of you.... I'd rather be conservative than risk my engine flying to the moon... Dyno numbers don't mean sh*t, Someone could have 400peak whp at 7300RPM, and someone else could have the same peak whp at a much lower rpm level... The point having high hp near redline is not whats going to make your car fast,

Try getting your peak hp/tq to come in at a lower rpm level, For instance the stock 2.0 motor can only handle somewhere around 42-44lbs of air per minute at 8500rpm, (thats if its running at 100%VE) But obviously not many of us run these engines at 8500rpm.. But the stock turbo is capable of supplying enough air to meet the demand of the stock engine, Thats why many sometimes get disappointed when they upgrade to a larger turbo and complain about not reaching their target HP and having more lag..etc. etc... Obviously i missed a few things here and there feel free to correct me...

I for one am trying to look into increasing the compression ratio of the stock 2.0... by means of a thinner HG but the factory HG is thin enough... I'm looking to get around to 9.5:1 ratio... Does anyone have any ideas on how to do that without completely tearing down the motor?? I want to have max boost below 3000RPM, I know that may be hard for some of you to understand but im sure it can be done with a few mods, feel free to point them out..

By increasing compression I can rely less on the turbo which in turn lowers boost, (reaching full boost sooner), I can run a little more timing, Keeping the iat temps down and such... I would have better low end torque, increased throttle response etc. etc. The only reason I would like to take this route is because I used to work at Audi and their new 2.0FSI Turbo motor had a comrpession ratio of 10:1, but they also had direct injection but the throttle response on that car was awesome and for a 2.0 4 cylinder that thing picked up speed really good..

So conservative tunes are really not that bad when you have different conditions to deal with, gas quality, climate conditions, elevation changes, driving habits...

I think some of you get the point, but as far as increasing the comp. ratio anyone have any good ideas without tearing the whole motor apart?

 

some people change boost numbers and some people change correction multipliers on their DD's...

 

*no comment* on the "...not lowering boost" as I've been at dyno days where he clearly tells customers to turn down the boost. We aren't dyno queens, run what you brung and what you paid for, why de-tune? :roll eyes:.

 

I know quiet a few tuners that will map a car on say 25psi and then set it to 22 when they are done. They say it helps with various temperature changes over the winter.

 

An educated consumer is my best customer

Not only do you get a graph of your data loged a/f and boost here

BUT - we will also show you the corection factor we use (1.10)

Also - we dont use a temp correction to inflate our numbers

 

If that is the case then customers should ask to see at dyno sheet at 22 psi also