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Timing belt problem

Old Jun 3, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #16  
djsbadger's Avatar
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Thanks for the response guys. I am hoping I dodged a bullet though I don't really want the same shop touching the car. What sort of numbers should the compression check show?

Last edited by djsbadger; Jun 3, 2007 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:27 PM
  #17  
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From: MA
There are a lot of variables. I had a washer get into my timing belt and cause the crank to skip ~90 degrees. No damage. It's a minor miracle IMO, but it goes to show you that there is no hard rule about how much slippage it takes to cause damage. It depends on what slipped, cam vs cam, intake vs crank, exhaust vs crank, both vs crank, and in what direction, etc.

A compression check will tell you if there is anything wrong. With one cam 1 tooth off (about 7.5 degrees IIRC) the change in overlap will skew the compression test results, but even a very slighly bent valve will almost always come up as zero psi and it will be quite obvious with the motor running.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by DsmAwdTurbo
Ok. Here is the deal. I had the exhaust cam off one tooth as well. Had no valve damage. MITSU actually effed it up. I took it in for warranty to get a new head and when i went to install my headstuds I put the car to TDC to find the exhaust cam off a tooth. I was livid however it wont cause an issue. Best bet is to have them take the car apart anyways since they did put it on 1 tooth off and check. I do alot of timing belts and the evo took a little getting used to due to the fact that the marks line up a little strange. one thing that I have found for the t-belt though is that if all of the marks are lined up the belt goes on smooth. I have done alot of timing belts now. Lots of headstuds installs cams etc etc. I think its pretty bad if a mechanic screws up the timing belt. That shouldnt be something they screw up. Could be too that the tension was too loose. I hope they were going by a manual. I took a guys car apart to find that the timing belt tensioner pully was tensioned in the wrong direction. It was odd! I fixed that up. Make sure that when they do the belt they do it right. make sure that the pin goes in and out of the tensioner 15 minutes after they rotate it 2 revolutions. Then rotate it again 4 more revolutions to get it back to TDC. I let it sit again for 15 minutes and check the pin one more time but Im **** when it comes to that stuff. I guess everyone is different. SOrry for all the loaded bs thats in this reply just letting you know how its done. Take it back to them and tell them you want it all checked out for free. Actually tell them that you are pissed that they screwed it up and that you want them to pay for someone else to take a look at it haha. someone who knows what they are doing
my 2 cents.
the tensioner position is very important... i had mine done by a freind and got a p0300 code on the way home, and a few times that week, pulled it apart to check, that was the only thing that changed.. and there was slight slack between the cam gears after sitting for a few minutes (if that makes sense). the two holes go down/towards the front, not up. Fixed that and no p0300 since... also wonder if guys that do thier cams and tighten down the tensioner get the code for the same reason
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:45 PM
  #19  
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this is exactly why I work on my own car. I'm very proud of that.
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 08:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MrMejia
this is exactly why I work on my own car. I'm very proud of that.
amen to that haha. Thats why i work on mine and give others a really good deal on labor. because i do it right and i take pride in my work
-
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 08:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Lucas English
Well if the thing still runs than the valves are probably fine.
agreed

Could do a leak down test to see anyways never hurts.
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