Blow off valves, any recomendations?
Originally posted by timzcat
Okay this is the last time I will bring this up.
The HKS bov is not very good. SCC did a test of a whole pile of BOV/DV valves and it did horrible on preventing surge when you lift off the throttle. That said, I think it is pointless since that is your main concern with a BOV. Do I have to post the actual results from the test? Does anyone read magazines?
I am not knocking HKS, they make some good ****. But that valve did not do well. The forge performs better and is about half the price of the HKS. I understand you all want that sound but any valve with a cone filter, your going to hear it.
Okay this is the last time I will bring this up.
The HKS bov is not very good. SCC did a test of a whole pile of BOV/DV valves and it did horrible on preventing surge when you lift off the throttle. That said, I think it is pointless since that is your main concern with a BOV. Do I have to post the actual results from the test? Does anyone read magazines?
I am not knocking HKS, they make some good ****. But that valve did not do well. The forge performs better and is about half the price of the HKS. I understand you all want that sound but any valve with a cone filter, your going to hear it.
id have to agree... alot of people i speak with say the same, it gets worse with increased boost levels. I think im getting TIAL bov. just my 2c
Originally posted by designmanfx
id have to agree... alot of people i speak with say the same, it gets worse with increased boost levels. I think im getting TIAL bov. just my 2c
id have to agree... alot of people i speak with say the same, it gets worse with increased boost levels. I think im getting TIAL bov. just my 2c
Originally posted by umiami80
No offense Chris, but your (sic) a dumbass.
No offense Chris, but your (sic) a dumbass.
Originally posted by atlvalet
I thought TIAL just made wastgates?
I thought TIAL just made wastgates?
here is a store selling it online with more information that Tial Probably has about their own sh*te
http://www.i-m-racing.com/tialbilblowo.html
Last edited by designmanfx; Jul 5, 2003 at 11:55 PM.
umiami, that backwards baseball hat, wifebeater, twigs for arms rant was hilarious
BTW the HKS unit would be excelent fir a drag race, full boost, and then expel it immediately. But for daily driving it stumbles and falls right on its face, I know as I had one for 2 years, caused my 4G63 to stumble and fall all over, but AWD launching and wot shifts were perfect.
Get a CRUSHED 1G BOV, works JUST LIKE stock, holds 25PSI, just as much as the HKS SSQBOV.
umiami80:
I took the Forge all apart to see it's construction and it operation and it is pretty sweet by design. It's actually open at idle and as soon as engine vacuum drops off it closes and stays closed until the engine sees about 1 in.Hg. and is open fully at 14 inHg.
It is basically using boost pressure in the barb side to push it against it's seat. Very interesting design, simple and effective.
It appears to be very responsive to lifting of the throttle and seems it just won't leak boost. It comes with the green spring which is weakest and holds fine on the Evo, so if you are running a lot of boost you can add a stiffer spring.
btw.. It was the DV not the Atmos dump valve. (of course)
I took the Forge all apart to see it's construction and it operation and it is pretty sweet by design. It's actually open at idle and as soon as engine vacuum drops off it closes and stays closed until the engine sees about 1 in.Hg. and is open fully at 14 inHg.
It is basically using boost pressure in the barb side to push it against it's seat. Very interesting design, simple and effective.
It appears to be very responsive to lifting of the throttle and seems it just won't leak boost. It comes with the green spring which is weakest and holds fine on the Evo, so if you are running a lot of boost you can add a stiffer spring.
btw.. It was the DV not the Atmos dump valve. (of course)
Originally posted by timzcat
umiami80:
I took the Forge all apart to see it's construction and it operation and it is pretty sweet by design. It's actually open at idle and as soon as engine vacuum drops off it closes and stays closed until the engine sees about 1 in.Hg. and is open fully at 14 inHg.
It is basically using boost pressure in the barb side to push it against it's seat. Very interesting design, simple and effective.
It appears to be very responsive to lifting of the throttle and seems it just won't leak boost. It comes with the green spring which is weakest and holds fine on the Evo, so if you are running a lot of boost you can add a stiffer spring.
btw.. It was the DV not the Atmos dump valve. (of course)
umiami80:
I took the Forge all apart to see it's construction and it operation and it is pretty sweet by design. It's actually open at idle and as soon as engine vacuum drops off it closes and stays closed until the engine sees about 1 in.Hg. and is open fully at 14 inHg.
It is basically using boost pressure in the barb side to push it against it's seat. Very interesting design, simple and effective.
It appears to be very responsive to lifting of the throttle and seems it just won't leak boost. It comes with the green spring which is weakest and holds fine on the Evo, so if you are running a lot of boost you can add a stiffer spring.
btw.. It was the DV not the Atmos dump valve. (of course)
I have the blue spring in mine right now (the "medium to hard" spring that's available), and it works absolutely awesome! I doubt I'll need to step up to the Red spring... but maybe when I start to play really bad and decide go up to the 25psi zone (under controlled environment and very high octane, of course)! muaahhahahahaaaa!!
I believe the green spring makes a little more noise mine (that's how it was when I had the venting to atmosphere version of the Forge valve anyway.. the weaker springs were louder.. more air came out), but don't quote me on that, since it depends on car and what intake you have.. I have a K&N drop-in filter and 6-7 holes drilled in the upper front section of the air-box...
I also changed the direction of the valve a couple times, but noticed very little difference between the two.. I do for some reason, however, like the stock way the best (the small nipple vacuum end facing forward vs straight up).. it somehow seems smoother..
That's funny cause it seems smoother with the barb up on mine.
I am still running stock boost controls with the green spring.
The real difference is the way you have it installed puts the boost pressure against the valve face instead of into the chamber. With the heavier spring in yours it probably helps open the valve a little. I tried it both ways and get that annoying squeak noise the way you are running it. Possible that would change if I change the spring. I'd be interested to see what vacuum level the valve opens with the blue spring since the green is about .5 to 1 in.Hg.
I am also still trying to figure out the possible advantages and disadvantages of 2 valve, no one wanted to really touch that post I had. Ideally it would release better and help keep the turbine spinning, possibly the most protection for the turbo. Downside is the total lack of any pressure in the IC after the shift.
But ideally the turbo should be spinning better
Maybe if you are shootin' the **** with Forge you can bring it up.
There is the possibility of running 2 different springs or a shim in one to stiffen it a little.
Do you have the spring and shim kits for the valve? Maybe I'll throw that in with the exhaust when it comes in.
I am still running stock boost controls with the green spring.
The real difference is the way you have it installed puts the boost pressure against the valve face instead of into the chamber. With the heavier spring in yours it probably helps open the valve a little. I tried it both ways and get that annoying squeak noise the way you are running it. Possible that would change if I change the spring. I'd be interested to see what vacuum level the valve opens with the blue spring since the green is about .5 to 1 in.Hg.
I am also still trying to figure out the possible advantages and disadvantages of 2 valve, no one wanted to really touch that post I had. Ideally it would release better and help keep the turbine spinning, possibly the most protection for the turbo. Downside is the total lack of any pressure in the IC after the shift.
But ideally the turbo should be spinning better
Maybe if you are shootin' the **** with Forge you can bring it up.
There is the possibility of running 2 different springs or a shim in one to stiffen it a little.
Do you have the spring and shim kits for the valve? Maybe I'll throw that in with the exhaust when it comes in.
Originally posted by timzcat
That's funny cause it seems smoother with the barb up on mine.
I am still running stock boost controls with the green spring.
The real difference is the way you have it installed puts the boost pressure against the valve face instead of into the chamber. With the heavier spring in yours it probably helps open the valve a little. I tried it both ways and get that annoying squeak noise the way you are running it. Possible that would change if I change the spring. I'd be interested to see what vacuum level the valve opens with the blue spring since the green is about .5 to 1 in.Hg.
I am also still trying to figure out the possible advantages and disadvantages of 2 valve, no one wanted to really touch that post I had. Ideally it would release better and help keep the turbine spinning, possibly the most protection for the turbo. Downside is the total lack of any pressure in the IC after the shift.
But ideally the turbo should be spinning better
Maybe if you are shootin' the **** with Forge you can bring it up.
There is the possibility of running 2 different springs or a shim in one to stiffen it a little.
Do you have the spring and shim kits for the valve? Maybe I'll throw that in with the exhaust when it comes in.
That's funny cause it seems smoother with the barb up on mine.
I am still running stock boost controls with the green spring.
The real difference is the way you have it installed puts the boost pressure against the valve face instead of into the chamber. With the heavier spring in yours it probably helps open the valve a little. I tried it both ways and get that annoying squeak noise the way you are running it. Possible that would change if I change the spring. I'd be interested to see what vacuum level the valve opens with the blue spring since the green is about .5 to 1 in.Hg.
I am also still trying to figure out the possible advantages and disadvantages of 2 valve, no one wanted to really touch that post I had. Ideally it would release better and help keep the turbine spinning, possibly the most protection for the turbo. Downside is the total lack of any pressure in the IC after the shift.
But ideally the turbo should be spinning better
Maybe if you are shootin' the **** with Forge you can bring it up.
There is the possibility of running 2 different springs or a shim in one to stiffen it a little.
Do you have the spring and shim kits for the valve? Maybe I'll throw that in with the exhaust when it comes in.
i can get u the spring and shim kit as well.. no prob!..
i should get that up there too..
