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Clutch Install Help Evo VIII

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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #16  
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From: Dirty Jerz
bump for help!
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 05:28 PM
  #17  
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From: Reno
i had the same problem. push the tranny back closer to the block and try it should come off relatively easy. i used a pretty big flathead.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 05:32 PM
  #18  
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From: Dirty Jerz
Originally Posted by boostinpsi
i had the same problem. push the tranny back closer to the block and try it should come off relatively easy. i used a pretty big flathead.
ok, thats what i wanted to hear...i will give that a shot toorrow....freakin tranny is pissin me off ....who wants a free evo .

with it pulled away first, the release fork wont even move side to side, so maybe that is the problem...well, today i have to calm down i not going back out there....but anyone in central jersey that wants to help, feel free to come by
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 06:20 PM
  #19  
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yeah, i just used a long flat-head, put it where the evomoto write-up showed me in their great pics(if you haven't checked it out, definitely do so), and twisted and it popped right off with very little effort.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #20  
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From: Dirty Jerz
yea i got mixed up on the write up some how and over looked it, and started to pull the tranny away from motor first before popping the TOB, now i have to put it together to do so....should be off tomorrow hopefully.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 08:06 AM
  #21  
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From: Dirty Jerz
will be tackeling this again today around 3pm ish...is there any more advice anyone wants to give? that will make this alot easier than what it is.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #22  
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From: NNJ
To be honest it sounds like you need to take your time and slow down. Evomoto clearly shows the hidden bolt and also how to disengage the TOB. I did my trans for the first time a couple weeks ago and did not have any of these issues. You should read the directions through once or twice before continuing any further so that you don’t make any more mistakes.

Also have you seen the thread about removing the subeframe to make the process easier? You should consider that option. It will take a bit more time but it will make things MUCH easier. Not to scare you but you have not even gotten to the hard part yet (acutally removing or putting the trans into place.) With the sub frame out you can use a jack to lower the trans and also to re-install it. This makes things much easier and also reduces your chances of breaking things trying to pry the trans outta place.

Last edited by dudical26; Jun 19, 2007 at 11:30 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 01:53 PM
  #23  
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From: Dirty Jerz
yea i'm at the point of removing the tranny, i did read threw the directions and printed a copy, i must of overlooked disconnecting the TOB, and i'm suffereing from taht mistake now, i can't dwell on the past just trying to keep things moving....feel free to take a trip to central jerz and lend a hand
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 04:50 PM
  #24  
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From: Dirty Jerz
quick update - the tranny is now off ..thanks boostinpsi ....i was able to get it closer, went in with flashlight and TOB came right off the pressure plate with little to no effort....tomorrow I will be installing the new TOB and the pressure plate and clutch, if i have time i will try and get the tranny bck on....

anyone know if mitsubishi sells the tranny bolts in a package or something?
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #25  
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From: Dirty Jerz
damn, i take off 6 bolts with ease with the air gun...7th bolt seemed to have stripped!, does mitsubishi normally carry crank bolts?
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 07:37 PM
  #26  
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From: york, PA
they'll probrably have to order it in. man, you're having all kinds of little issues aren't you? hope it's not your daily driver!
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 03:14 AM
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From: Dirty Jerz
Well, the dealer had them in stock, and i also had to goto sears to buy one of thoes stripped bolt remover sockets, so that should get off that last bolt, will tackle that today....yea, issue after issue is my middle name...startin to grow tired of this ****!!.....now after this, somehow managed to strip the inside grooves of the damn drain plug bolt!! WTFFF!!!, i put the bolt in, and it just spins when it gets to the end...i took it out, and there was metal around the grooves as if it came off the inside of the hole, so now i gonna buy some washers to see if that works.....been a bad week for me.

oh and no, this isn't my daily driver......i have a 95 civic coupe..bone stock dry full of dents and dings, but hey, 38 mpg
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 05:06 AM
  #28  
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Like someone said earlier the hardest part of this install is putting the transmission back on. I have done it four times now and this is what has worked best for me. You will need two jacks, one for under the engine and one for the transmission. The engine needs to be positioned correctly, what we do is lower it all the way and then jack it up about 2 inches. We also use a huge bar to pry the engine forward as far as it will go, I don’t think you can get it on without doing this (learned this trick from Dan Buschur). The fun part is now getting the transmission in. You will need at least two people. Place a big jack under the transmission. Have one person slowly jack it up and another person hold the rear end of the transmission up. The rear end needs to be pretty high to clear the subframe. We jack it up a little and then push the jack towards the rear of the car. Keep doing this until the trans is even with the engine. It will take a little finesse (the biggest problem will be getting the trans over the front of the clutch) but I have found this to be the quickest way. You may have to jack the engine up a bit more so that everything clears, but we usually don’t do that until the trans is over the clutch. We can put a trans on it about 15 minutes.

Good Luck,
Shad
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 06:15 AM
  #29  
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The trick for removing the crank bolts is to grind down a GOOD socket so it is perfectly flat, that way it makes solid contact with the short little crank bolts, it you don't and use a worn socket it will strip.
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 06:43 AM
  #30  
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From: Dirty Jerz
thanks for the tip

Originally Posted by vee21
Like someone said earlier the hardest part of this install is putting the transmission back on. I have done it four times now and this is what has worked best for me. You will need two jacks, one for under the engine and one for the transmission. The engine needs to be positioned correctly, what we do is lower it all the way and then jack it up about 2 inches. We also use a huge bar to pry the engine forward as far as it will go, I don’t think you can get it on without doing this (learned this trick from Dan Buschur). The fun part is now getting the transmission in. You will need at least two people. Place a big jack under the transmission. Have one person slowly jack it up and another person hold the rear end of the transmission up. The rear end needs to be pretty high to clear the subframe. We jack it up a little and then push the jack towards the rear of the car. Keep doing this until the trans is even with the engine. It will take a little finesse (the biggest problem will be getting the trans over the front of the clutch) but I have found this to be the quickest way. You may have to jack the engine up a bit more so that everything clears, but we usually don’t do that until the trans is over the clutch. We can put a trans on it about 15 minutes.

Good Luck,
Shad
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