how can I know if it is the clutch or the synchro?
how can I know if it is the clutch or the synchro?
I have a 05 and a weak ago I started getting grinding when I shift from 4th to 5th.
I have 18Ks on it and I am on the stock clutch, I can not bypass the problem by double clutching and it happens at low rpms too.
It doesn't do it in any other gear exept one time in standstill, standing on the clutch to the 2nd.
how can I be sure wich is the problem??
I have 18Ks on it and I am on the stock clutch, I can not bypass the problem by double clutching and it happens at low rpms too.
It doesn't do it in any other gear exept one time in standstill, standing on the clutch to the 2nd.
how can I be sure wich is the problem??
99.9% sure it's your synchros.
100% sure it's not the clutch
100% sure it was last week, not last weak, as well
There's an H in which, too, btw. Not beating you up, just offering some help since English isn't the official language of Iceland.
100% sure it's not the clutch
100% sure it was last week, not last weak, as well
There's an H in which, too, btw. Not beating you up, just offering some help since English isn't the official language of Iceland.
If it is the clutch then it would be from warped surfaces (caused from overheating). If you adjust the rod at the master cylinder to make it engage/disengage higher and you find a big improvement, then your syncros may be OK. If no improvement, then it is most likely syncros.
Its more than likely the synchros, my 5th/reverse synchros are shot and getting replaced as we speak. My 5th gear grind started from day one. Mitsu really needs to back up this problem they have with these cars. Quite ridiculous.....
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Many synchro problems actually arise as a result of an improperly adjusted clutch, warped clutch components, clutch disc that is just too heavy for clean high rpm synchronization, etc. Most cars never have synchro problems, but with all this crap that comes along with daily driving borderline race cars, we tend to.
My upgraded single never disengaged properly, so it put a year's worth of wear on the tranny. Now my exedy twin is warped (fully engages very high, but drags with the pedal on the floor) and is making my life hell again. I've given up on having a tranny that shifts.
To see if your clutch is dragging, put the car up on 4 jackstands, or a lift, and test it out. Put the car in gear, with the clutch all the way in, the wheels shouldn't turn. If they do, and you have some room to raise the engagement point, adjust the rod and perform the test again. Hopefully you can reach a happy medium. If the problem goes away, great. If not, the damage was most likely already done.
My upgraded single never disengaged properly, so it put a year's worth of wear on the tranny. Now my exedy twin is warped (fully engages very high, but drags with the pedal on the floor) and is making my life hell again. I've given up on having a tranny that shifts.

To see if your clutch is dragging, put the car up on 4 jackstands, or a lift, and test it out. Put the car in gear, with the clutch all the way in, the wheels shouldn't turn. If they do, and you have some room to raise the engagement point, adjust the rod and perform the test again. Hopefully you can reach a happy medium. If the problem goes away, great. If not, the damage was most likely already done.
Last edited by kjewer1; Jun 26, 2007 at 12:09 AM.
Many synchro problems actually arise as a result of an improperly adjusted clutch, warped clutch components, clutch disc that is just too heavy for clean high rpm synchronization, etc. Most cars never have synchro problems, but with all this crap that comes along with daily driving borderline race cars, we tend to.
My upgraded single never disengaged properly, so it put a year's worth of wear on the tranny. Now my exedy twin is warped (fully engages very high, but drags with the pedal on the floor) and is making my life hell again. I've given up on having a tranny that shifts.
To see if your clutch is dragging, put the car up on 4 jackstands, or a lift, and test it out. Put the car in gear, with the clutch all the way in, the wheels shouldn't turn. If they do, and you have some room to raise the engagement point, adjust the rod and perform the test again. Hopefully you can reach a happy medium. If the problem goes away, great. If not, the damage was most likely already done.
My upgraded single never disengaged properly, so it put a year's worth of wear on the tranny. Now my exedy twin is warped (fully engages very high, but drags with the pedal on the floor) and is making my life hell again. I've given up on having a tranny that shifts.

To see if your clutch is dragging, put the car up on 4 jackstands, or a lift, and test it out. Put the car in gear, with the clutch all the way in, the wheels shouldn't turn. If they do, and you have some room to raise the engagement point, adjust the rod and perform the test again. Hopefully you can reach a happy medium. If the problem goes away, great. If not, the damage was most likely already done.
I'm having this same problem with my shift to fifth gear. I'm going to look at changing my transmission fluid with some BG II as I currently have Royal Purple in it. To help lengthen the serviceability of my synchros I shift slowly and at low revs when going into fifth gear. I know it's just a matter of time until I will have to take it into the stealership to have it replaced.
One more thing, sometimes when I put it in 1st gear, it feels like there is something in the way. No grinding, it is just stiff. is that normal or should I worry about that too??
Usually on mine it's a little notchy to get into 1st. when the car is cold, then after a little driving and warm up it's back to normal again.


