I have this thread on the General forum and realized I should have posted it here.

(Don't know how to delete the other one...)

My dealer as of right now is replacing my 1-2 and 5-reverse syncros under warrantee.

Right now my question is this...the car is taken apart and the service dept. is recommending I replace the clutch and flywheel while it is apart (no additional labor cost. Essentially I am paying only for parts)

There are hotspots, etc. on the flywheel but the clutch, in the service manager's words is "not the worst I've seen".

the dilemma is If I give them an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate/flywheel to install, I immediately lose all warrantee on the syncro work that they have just done.

I have 28,000 mi. on the stock clutch and am wondering wether I should replace the pressure plate/flywheel/TOB, OR put the old parts back in, OR a combination of the two (just the pressure plate and cover and keep the old flywheel OR vice versa) They will NOT resurface the flywheel.

Sorry for the long post, But I have to make my decision by tomorrow AM.

Prices quoted for the parts are 280-something for the flywheel and 350 for the rest of it minus the throw-out bearing.

Of course the guy may be trying to sell me, but they have been great to me and the fact that the car is taken apart does have some merit.

Any input is appreciated.

Tom

Any issue with chatter etc. w/ new clutch and old flywheel with hotspots?

Am going down tomorrow to look at the pieces and talk to the technician directly.

 

Dont waste your money on a oem clutch, if you are goin to replace it get the ACT street/race clutch and have them resurface your flywheel. i would for sure take advantage of the free labor, I had my mitsu dealer do it for me when the fixed my 5th gear grind.

 

only issue is that the dealer stated, in effect "we cannnot resurface the flywheel, there are no specs available to do this" Also, "If we install anything but stock parts, the work that we are doing to the transmission will not be warranteed".

So...

I guess The question could be, how are people's transmissions holding up after the TSB's are being done at the dealerships?

Thanks for the response.

Tom

 

Upgrade the clutch to the ACT street or something purchace a new flywheel if they wont resurface the fly. the dealer should warranty the proper installation of the syncros and the clutch. If the syncros are not properly installed they will grind right of way.

You should also have the 3-4 syncros replaced to even if you have to pay for it.

 

For the most part replacing sychros is a fairly straight forward task. Hard for the dealer to dick something like that up. I would take advantage of the free labor and in the process install an upgraded clutch. You are already getting a hell of a deal and it sounds like this stealership has performed this kind of work before.

I would be more worried if the service manager was a dumb **** and they had never seen an EVO before. My biggest concern would be fluid. Make darn sure they use the diaqueen lsd oil in the xfer case.

 

bad trade.

 

Thanks Jeff.

A couple questions for you...I have already discussed the proper ASE straight 90 weight for the Transfer case. and thankfully the tech seems knowledgeable. I went to take pictures af everything taken apart today.

My concern was immediate no-warrantee on the work they just did on the syncros if I go the Aftermarket clutch route. So if the tech messes up the syncro job, I am stuck.

So... just how long have Decent aftermarket clutches lasted if not much racing? (ACT, Excedy, etc.)?

I was also just thinking of draining the Xfer case when I get it back and re-filling it with my jug of 90 wt Diaqueen

Thanks for the input

Tom

 

I'm not sure I understand this...

 

The must warranty the proper installation of the the syncros. Ask the tech if he will test to make sure if the syncros were properly installed even if you put an aftermarket clutch in. If dont plan on racing the car at all or modding the car so it puts 350hp /350tq than put an oem in

 

the car will probably not be raced (maybe a pass or three at a dragstrip).

My thoughts as well as far as having to warrantee the syncro work, but it is a bit tough arguing with "da man" especially as they are treating me quite well right about now as Jeff Jeske mentioned

Thanks for the input

Tom

 

I have about 350whp and 30k miles. I'm still on the stock clutch. If you don't launch the crap out of the car any clutch will last. I road race but I don't rip gears. I maintain the crap out of my stuff.

 

Thanks for getting back to me Jeff.

When you say you do a lot of road racing, but do not "rip the gears" do you mean you do not powershift without using the clutch? or you don't shift quickly? Just wondering as I would think you would unsettle suspension of the car if you did not shift quickly. Would it be safe to say you shift precisely? possibly a wierd choice of words, but I would think Quick and precise would be ideal, versus slamming the stick to the stops in the linkage while shifting.

Very cool that you are at 50k w/ stock and thanks for the estimate of mileage for an aftermarket clutch. (learn something new every day )

Thanks again for the feedback

Tom

 

I only have experience with the Exedy, Tilton and the stock clutch. I have a twin disk Exedy SD (not the new HD) and I got about 22K miles out of it. It went to the track a few times (slipped the clutch way to much) and it is daily driven 70 miles a day in stop and go traffic. I know of other people that are have well over 30K miles on them. I would not suggest the Tilton for anything other than a race car. Daily drivability is poor and the clutch's do not last very long when driven in traffic.

If it were me I would replace the stock clutch with and Exedy twin HD.

Shad