Go to buschurracing's forums and you'll see daves opinion on how to break in.

In a summation, warm it up, check for leaks, run the car for a while at 2500rpms (to set the cams, as I remember always being told). Cool it down completely, run it like hell. DONE

People will tell you this and that, the only reason to really baby the car is to make sure nothing went wrong intially. If it doesnt happen within the first 1k miles, its probably not going to happen (unless you do something wrong or a catastrophic chain of events happens). Here, read it:

http://buschurforums.com/vbforum/showthread.php?t=19356

Im just going to enjoy watching all the know it alls on the board argue with the oracle of 4g63 engine building. LOL

 

break in for an engine is like a virgin girl, forget the break it, just rip it and have your fun~~

 

Thanks!

 

Question:>>>Should I put regular oil at first 300miles then change to synthetic (people here says run it with regular oil first) or synthetic oil all the way???

 

Actually, we didn't build the engine I am assuming from your signature. So, I say contact your engine builder and ask them what to do with it.

 

GOod point, sorry bout that dave. I just happen to agree with your methods and thought it was a strong backing.

 

Mitsu factory short block...warranty paid for it

 

Should I put regular oil at first 300miles then change to synthetic (like what people says run it with regular oil first) or synthetic oil all the way???
___________

 

Amazing how the two best Evo companies out there differ so much on engine breakins.

Buschurs - check leaks, warm up, check afrs, go at it.
AMS - 1500 mile break in, regular oil (change at I believe it was, 20 miles, 300 miles, 1000, 1500) then if you want back to synthetic. Don't break in on constant highway miles, decel with engine/downshift not clutch in/brakes. spirited driving.

 

Sorry about the hi-jack, could you guys look here and vote IF you have experience with this issue? https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=281215

 

Just remember these three things:

1.) DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL FOR THE FIRST 1000 miles.

2.) Upon startup, keep the RPMS at 3000 rpms for 15 minutes and then shut it off and change the oil and filter

3.) Take it out on the road with low boost (stay out of boost if possible) and vary the RPM's as you drive on the highway (2000-6000 rpms).

You should be good if you follow these directions. Remember to check for leaks when you start up for the first time! Good luck!

 

my standard start up procedure

non syn oil
1 tbl spoon of oil in each cylinder
disconnect ignition/fuel and turn motor over several times
start up and adjust idle to 2500-3000rpm (check for leaks) (have fun with the smoke!)
after 20 mins, drain oil/filter change
regular oil for the next 100 miles of normal driving*
change to syn, beat the crap out of as normal

*depends on ring type. Some rings seal very quickly, some take longer. Consult your ring supplier on average seat time.

 

i think i get it now! thanks guys!