sick of forge bov flutter??
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From: Los Angeles, CA
sick of forge bov flutter??
i was too but i felt that i was stuck with the buschur uicp that was flanged for the forge 1g dv. i was wrong though, if you go to dejontool's website they sell a 1g adapter flange. buy that and get some silicon hose and couplers at your local autoshop and you can fit an ix dv onto your buschur pipe!
here are some pics of the setup...



hope this helps some of you out there!
here are some pics of the setup...



hope this helps some of you out there!
No, the flutter is just ffing ridiculously annoying. I switched to a Greddy RS and just had a new flange welded on my BR UICP. I like the IX/MR bov route though. How much boost are you running? Is it leaking at all?
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I have the 1G valve with the leak stop kit and it does seal tight under high boost and doesn't flutter at low boost (typical street driving), but it isn't very smooth at releasing at high boost and causes some of the same issues as an aftermarket valve when you are driving at part but heavy throttle, high RPM, near full boost. No one drives this way on the street, but if you are autocrossing it is an issue I am finding.
ok
I have the 1G valve with the leak stop kit and it does seal tight under high boost and doesn't flutter at low boost (typical street driving), but it isn't very smooth at releasing at high boost and causes some of the same issues as an aftermarket valve when you are driving at part but heavy throttle, high RPM, near full boost. No one drives this way on the street, but if you are autocrossing it is an issue I am finding.
Have you compared to an Evo IX or unleakstopped 1G?
I have the 1G valve with the leak stop kit and it does seal tight under high boost and doesn't flutter at low boost (typical street driving), but it isn't very smooth at releasing at high boost and causes some of the same issues as an aftermarket valve when you are driving at part but heavy throttle, high RPM, near full boost. No one drives this way on the street, but if you are autocrossing it is an issue I am finding.
An alternative to the pilot-op pressure valve included in the dejon leak stop kit would be a wot switch that activates a 3 way solenoid. Works similar to the dejon leak kit. Only with the wot switch/solenoid, the bov will perform like stock under most conditions but at wot it would seal shut. Doing it this way gets rid of pretty much all of the driveability problems but you still get the benefits of a leak free bov during wot.
I used to run the dejon leak stop kit on my GSX and had the same issues you were describing. During heavy throttle where boost would hover above the 15psi switch point of the pilot valve, I would get a little flutter and slight bucking whenever I'd back off the throttle. Now I use a tps signal to control the 1g bov seal point and couldn't be happier.
An alternative to the pilot-op pressure valve included in the dejon leak stop kit would be a wot switch that activates a 3 way solenoid. Works similar to the dejon leak kit. Only with the wot switch/solenoid, the bov will perform like stock under most conditions but at wot it would seal shut. Doing it this way gets rid of pretty much all of the driveability problems but you still get the benefits of a leak free bov during wot.
An alternative to the pilot-op pressure valve included in the dejon leak stop kit would be a wot switch that activates a 3 way solenoid. Works similar to the dejon leak kit. Only with the wot switch/solenoid, the bov will perform like stock under most conditions but at wot it would seal shut. Doing it this way gets rid of pretty much all of the driveability problems but you still get the benefits of a leak free bov during wot.
I had the same bucking/flutter issues at certain throttle inputs on street driving even trying to avoid the problem at all costs.
In the end I tryed the forge recirc valve, blitz dd valve, hks ssqv, then the aps dual drive recirc valve. ALL except the APS fluttered as bad or worse then the previous. The APS has not bucked my car once at no matter what throttle input I give it and it holds perfect boost.
Just an fyi instead of spending more money on switches and solenoids give an aps recirc valve a try.... you will be VERY happy you did. I spent way to much time and money figuring out I should have had the APS in the first place.
In the end I tryed the forge recirc valve, blitz dd valve, hks ssqv, then the aps dual drive recirc valve. ALL except the APS fluttered as bad or worse then the previous. The APS has not bucked my car once at no matter what throttle input I give it and it holds perfect boost.
Just an fyi instead of spending more money on switches and solenoids give an aps recirc valve a try.... you will be VERY happy you did. I spent way to much time and money figuring out I should have had the APS in the first place.







