I haven't posted up any reactions to the valve yet because BoxerSix is hip deep into my car removing the tranny and t-case for TRE massaging. He did bring it over on SuperBowl Sunday for a visit, and the bucking issue was muted with the valve and BoxerSix's voodoo applied, but he wasn't finished with his solution. Promise I'll post up once I actually get to see this thing and get some real drive time with it.

 

So do I need adapters for that or will it work out of the box with the included rings? I know they are the proper size but I'm not sure if they are proper placement.

Also, whats with the long vac cord? ...what ports did you use? ...did you experience the bucking problem at all or did we rule that cams made it much worse?

 

You'll need the 1.25" hose end adapters for a completely easy fit. It is looking like we'll have these in stock in about a week. So give it about 1 1/2 weeks to order from forum sponsors.

What comes in the box is a 1 3/8" weld flange, and some people that can't wait are "cheating" by wrapping the hose around that and clamping down. It is a solution to get you by, but not in the long run.

The bucking is muted by running only 1 port on the back of the BOV to boost/vacuum. You will have to test and see which port works best for your application depending on your mods.

 

Any new updates? The bucking is still driving me crazy!

 

My car is in the process of getting a TRE Stage 2 tranny rebuild and a t-case rebuild and LSD install, so it's down for at least 2 weeks. BoxerSix is still in the midst of his magic potion development to resolve this issue. From what I've seen and experienced before the car went in for the drive train work, he was well on his way to resolving this issue. The Synchronic valve is a vital piece of the puzzle.

 

Guys I apologize for delays in this matter. It's been a rough past fews weeks here with my daughter and I getting the flu, and catching back up on a lot of work here including the drive train works on Erics Evo. I have not forgotten about this.

the current situation right now is that Erics car is down, so even a remote ability for me to test and further changes is out for a couple more weeks until I get the tranny and t-case back in. I am a bit short on funds this time of year and I still have to purchase a special item from the lands of Australia yet to build a finalized piece here for the last testing. I've had to put off a little of this stuff in favor of some bigger, money-in-quick projects so I can pay some bills here. Soon, i promise that.

-Adam

 

I've had the flu twice now. My wife and daughter both got shots and are ok so far. I didn't get the shot.

And sadly, a friend passed away from the flu. If you haven't gotten the shot, get it! It is really bad this year.

 

Please update us when the proper fitment kit comes in. I'd like to order as soon as it does.

 

Update - tranny & t-case just went out this past Monday (a week late - !#%* FedEx). Don't want you to think we're being negligent in posting up....

 

Evo flanges are now available. Contact your forum sponsors.

 

BoxerSix and Synapse:

After reading all this thread, I now understand where the "chugging" and surging that I have been encountering with part throttle modulation comes from. I, too have HKS 272/272 cams both set at -2* and IX DV...miserable. I do run the stock airbox and get this "chugging" when transistioning from a more open throttle position down to a lesser and back...exactly as described in this thread as when you are trying to hold a line in a curve or modulate your speed in traffic at highway speeds. Mine at speed has never been so violent that I can't "drive" around it, but it is disconcerting none the less.

Oddly, the most violent surging comes when trolling along slowly in first or second at ~2500-3000 rpm and then hitting small bumps (think small speed bump) and then all hell breaks loose as the load induced by the bump causing wild surging. The only way to dissipate it is to clutch in and let off throttle completely...certainly not an option on the track.

Do you think that a turbo such as the FP Evo Green with the larger compressor wheel and housing would encounter the same problem of bumping up against the surge line?

I have been contemplating this turbo and as it is still a fast spooling turbo (going to go with the 9.0 or 9.8 turbine housing to counter the tiny bit of lag this turbo has over a stock 16g, since it only seems to sacrifice a few HP up top), but with the larger compressor wheel, might it avoid some the surging issue?

I look forward to BoxerSix's solution and your thoughts on the above.

 

I gotta be honest, what your describing here I've experienced in every single manual transmission four banger I've ever driven, N/A and turbo. I dont think drivetrain bucking at low speed like over speedbumps is what we're talking about here.

I am experiencing partal thottle full load surging / bucking the same as others here in this thread are, and it doesn't have to be up hill. it seems to be the worst in fourth and above. For example 3k rpm in 4th then giving it 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. or crusing in 5th at ~2.5k and giving it half throttle.

But this also frequently happens as early as 2nd gear when if i were to hold half throttle from 3,000 it would start surging / bucking at around 4,000 and continue as long as I wasn't WOT.

This seriously effects the driveability of my car, especially when passing or on a nice mountain road where I really cant be full throttle all the time or I'd kill myself. I would love to have a solution to this problem, I know its not MBC induced as I am using a turboXS EBC.

 

I have also experienced this in other small displacement/manual transmission cars also...but NOT to the extent that the Evo does it. All the others are VERY minor. I am aware that this is not the behavior primarily discussed in this thread, just pointing out that in MY case, the most violent instance is under this circumstance. I do suffer the part throttle "chugging" when transitioning off the throttle and back again...so far it's not bad enough that I feel I am going to stuff the car in to armco, but as I get faster in the turns, this may rear it's head more.

I am still curious as to the opinions of Synapse & BoxerSix regarding my earlier question.

 

My MR bov holds 25lbs. of boost like a champ. I'd like to see something that works just as good, but for the price/performance, you really can't beat the JDM Evo bov. Past 25lbs, I really can't say.

 

This is NOT a dump valve holding issue....

Just another update - my car is still not back together yet. Might be by the end of the week.