Jarrod, thanks much for the imput! That helps out a lot and gives me a little direction for what I want to do

Oh yeah, aerodynamics are my main focus, as well as handling. I just want to improve the engine so I've got some extra power (tons of lag up there!) and strength to handle it.

So I could make a different EM (reflash, piggy back, etc.) work off of MAP via just the regular MAFT? So it would see the MAP setup as a MAF and still work properly as if it were a full hard-core MAP setup? That's intriguing. My big hesitation with the MAFTpro is the fact that I doubt my tuner knows how to deal with it.

Vostok 7

 

The only advice I can give is get an oil pressure guage

 

the lag isnt as bad as you make it sound bad. i live in reno and drive to tahoe regularly even at 8000 ft over mt rose pass it doesnt make that much of a difference.

the higher altitude helps with knock protection since the air is not as dense. you wont make as much power which you could contribute to lag but really there just isnt as much air.

IMO the extra lag is unnoticeable.

i agree with C6 about the guage. id go OP OT WT, EGT, AFR.

upgraded oil cooler for sure. The sotck radiator is pretty good. you could ditch the fan for weight reasons though since travvelling that fast it wont do much good anyways.

coat and rap everything you possibly can to keep the engine bay as cool as possible. if you can run an induction box or a CAI not a short ram to get cooler air to the motor. I agree with whoever said it before cooling is going to be an issue.

definatly do aero stuff. you need all the stability you can get at those speeds.

J-rod basically schooled all of us in the power aspect.


good luck man.

 

Aero stuff is pretty much taken care of. I have an APR front lip, APR GTC-300 rear wing, APR rear diffuser, Beatrush front undertray and Voltex canards on the way.

Cooling is a problem, but I've never seen my temps climb on my previous cars when actually running. When my radiator hose blew on my STi it was because it had weakened and finally popped, but I was also having some tuning problems (The TurboXS DTEC-BC SUCKS ****!!!) and it was causing the engine to buck enough that I think it put the upper radiator hose into the fan (thanks to Subaru's brilliant design of running the upper hose mere inches from the fan for nearly a foot ). I've already got some silicone hoses on order for the Evo. Someday I'd like to run a full aluminum radiator but that's in the future unless I can get a sponsor

Gauges are always big for me. How hard is it to tap the stock oil temp gauge on the MR to do electronic oil temp and pressure?

Vostok 7

 

i have heard of those lips ripping hte bumper off of cars before at high speeds. just something to check out.

 

The Beatrush undertray basically bolts it all into place. There's no way it's gonna fly off.

Vostok 7

 

Wow, that's one helluva goal, but a very cool one, too. You should have stated that from the very beginning, because it makes a big difference in what mods you should use. You aren't going to use the same mods as some random Joe who wants 350whp on his DD that never gets raced.

Yes, the altitude does kill spool. Boostinpsi may not "feel" it, but I registered a 500rpm loss from sea level to Colorado on the dyno at 6000' or so - same boost level.

 

On my STi it wasn't that bad, but then the STi is a torque monster because of the 2.5l.

My WRX had the curse to the max. Even worse, it was an automatic

Does anyone know if there would be an advantage to running one of those oil cooler thermostats that leaves the lines open full time?

Vostok 7

 

No, their purpose in life is to help the oil come up to opperating temp faster by restricting the flow oil throught the cooler until it is warmmed up. Once your oil is hot enough it's going to be open all the way anyways. There is no harm in leaving it on for your purpose and no benifit in taking it off.

 

Anytime! I'm always glad to help out.

I did forget the radiator as someone mentioned. I would go with Koyo to be honest. Its thick, has been proven to work pretty much flawlessly and it is cheaper than the Fluidyne. Its personal preference though. Its kind of like Nike and New Balance.

I did figure the gauges were a no brainer.

Something else you can look at is DEI heat controlling products. They definitely engineer some good stuff. Take a look at our site as we carry their complete line and can pretty much beat anyones price. https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...hp?cPath=21_64

If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I'll be glad to help out however I can and im sure if I cant one of these other fella's will be willing to.

Take care!

 

I asked it earlier but I'll ask it again, what's the easiest way to get a MAP or MAP-like setup on the EVO without too much money?

E-Manage Ultimate?
MAFTpro?
MAFT + Another tuning system?
ECUFlash + JDM MAP Sensor? (does that even work that way?)

Vostok 7

 

MAFTPro plus flash, but do you really need to go through the hassle?

 

For prolonged high engine speed applications you'll probably want to use something like Motul LeMans 10W-60 Motor oil, or the Castrol 10W-60.

Furthermore, a larger engine oil cooler, such as a Setrab, the HKS dual cooler(pricey), or even an economical large B&M unit might be helpful. The Tomei Oil Thermo Killer might not help, but it won't hurt either. Also, an oil pressure gauge with a warning light such as the AWE Tuning unit would be good insurance.

The larger radiator previously mentioned will help keep coolant temps down, as will the Ralliart T-stat, and the TB coolant line bypass mod, and ditto removing the hood louvres.

Way cold plugs like BPR9ES, or even BR9ES's might be the ticket as well.

 

The Zeitronix ZT2 has EGT, WB02, Boost & more all in one small display. I am gonna order one because I don't like the look of gauges plastered all over the interior. Oh and def get a uprated oil cooler.

 

Save yourself any and all hassle and buy an AEM EMS. DONE DEAL!