Boost leak or crappy install?
Boost leak or crappy install?
This is my first time installing a gauge so hopefully its my crappy install and not a boost leak. I am reading 19 vacuum on my gauge. I peak at 17 when boosting and it drops to 15. Below is a pic of my install. I checked to make sure there is plenty of slack in the line too. Does the OBD connection give a readout of what it senses the boost is at? Also, my gauge sits at one notch below 0, or -1 vacuum, when the car is off. That sound right? A while back, before i got the gauge, i thought my car felt a little different than it did when i first bought it. I just rolled over 3000 miles so i keep telling myself there is no way i have a boost leak this soon. What do you think?
Looks like a crap install to me.
I would take the T out completely put new vac line to the FPR. Check my pictures below for a better location to use the T. Boost leak checks are good to do regardless...
First pic is what the line to your FPR should look like. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone tapping this for a boost source?

Here is where I recommend you move the T to... This is the line off the DV/BOV.

Even better than that would be to tap at the LICP or the turbo compressor itself. I'm using the compressor housing and it seems to be the best for me.
I would take the T out completely put new vac line to the FPR. Check my pictures below for a better location to use the T. Boost leak checks are good to do regardless...
First pic is what the line to your FPR should look like. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone tapping this for a boost source?
Here is where I recommend you move the T to... This is the line off the DV/BOV.
Even better than that would be to tap at the LICP or the turbo compressor itself. I'm using the compressor housing and it seems to be the best for me.
PS: And get rid of those ugly zip ties lol. You can use a drop of super glue if you're worried... those T's are barbed so you shouldn't really need either with your application.
MR models with oem boost gauge have the t in the fuel pressure regulator line
Looks like a crap install to me.
I would take the T out completely put new vac line to the FPR. Check my pictures below for a better location to use the T. Boost leak checks are good to do regardless...
First pic is what the line to your FPR should look like. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone tapping this for a boost source?

Here is where I recommend you move the T to... This is the line off the DV/BOV.

Even better than that would be to tap at the LICP or the turbo compressor itself. I'm using the compressor housing and it seems to be the best for me.
I would take the T out completely put new vac line to the FPR. Check my pictures below for a better location to use the T. Boost leak checks are good to do regardless...
First pic is what the line to your FPR should look like. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone tapping this for a boost source?
Here is where I recommend you move the T to... This is the line off the DV/BOV.
Even better than that would be to tap at the LICP or the turbo compressor itself. I'm using the compressor housing and it seems to be the best for me.
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ah i got 19PSI steady all the way up through 5th when it hit 3k. Like i said, this gauge was like one line under 0 right out of the box. and it sits at that when the car is off. The gauge off?
The reason some tuners say not to tap into the FPR line is because if you end up popping off a hose or there is a leak it can caus ethe car to run lean and blow the engine. If the line pops off the FPR won't increase fuel pressure at a 1:1 rising rate like it is suppossed to and the fuel will stay at the set pressure of about 43.5 psi.








