Well i've been in the market to upgrade my turbo from a Green to either a 35 or 37 ts or os. The TS kits haven't had any results and are priced pretty high at the moment. AMS also has their sell so i'm going to grab a kit from them. Now, here's the question, w/my mods in my sig, which would be a better DD, a 35 or 37? I've read up and know the 37r pretty much means upgrading block and running a standalone, but has anyone ran the 37 kits using ECUflash? And how is the driveability w/the 37's? I know 35r's have been dailydriven and tuned w/Ecuflash, but i want to guerentee that i'll hit 10's as well, and still be able to have fun driving it around town.

I plan on getting the block done probably next summer from Buschur as well, along w/the head and possibly the tranny from either Shep or TRE. I'm also running 750cc injectors and wondering if i should bump up to 880's w/either of these kits. Any 35 or 37 owners please chime in, the sell only last 2 weeks, haha.

 

def get 880's for injectors, u can hit 10's easily on the 35r for sure.

if your car is daily driven id say get a 35r. hell even on my car that i probably put about 2k/year on im going with the buschur 35r on 100 oct

ull be able to hit 10's with 93+ meth i bet or if u dont want to run meth just run 100 octane, thatll give u a lot of power. im sure u can bust a 10 with good driving

 

i think ive read somwhere between 35r and 37r, they spool about the same, id go for 37r for killer whp

 

Maybe this could help https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=177652
as you will get 100 different answers from 100 different people.

 

go with 880's, you'll more than likely run out of fuel w/780's at 30psi, oh yeah and get this........

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=289156

 

If you go 35r, go with 1000cc Injectors. I have a friend running out of gas with 880s around 27-28 psi. With 1000cc injs, you'll be good to 35 psi with a 35r. 37 who knows.

 

And now for the reality check . . .

You have a stock-sized turbo presently, and a very good one at that. You aren't going to find the 35R to be 'fun driving around town', unless the tach needle stays above 4500rpm. Tack on another 300rpm of lag for a 37R.

You didn't mention if you intended to stick with pump fuel or use race fuel. This is an important question where usage of stock blocks, daily driven, ECU Flash, and injector sizing is concerned, not to mention a direct factor of how much 'fun driving it around town' it is as compared to the turbo you have presently.

I am illustrating these things to point out that going to a larger turbo is always a tradeoff. There is very little having one's cake and eating it too, especially when one is constrained by budgetary concerns. Be advised.

 

I see your point Ted B. I've been in a 35r evo before, and it seems it struggled to idle properly, i'm assuming it was the tune because it stalled out at a light, and the owner had to rev it a little every once and awhile. The way it pulled though wasn't half as bad as you described, sure the spool will be a little later then my green but it spooled right around 3800. My main concern about DD it would be how reliable and safe the motor will be, w/what i have in it now.

I'll be running strictly 93 w/an Aquamist kit, and run c16 or 104 race gas for the dragstrip. I'm thinking if i don't send out the block to get built, just to at least get the drop in rods and pistons from Buschur.

I've been following these TS threads, and still eyeing them, but the AMS kits are going real cheap at the moment. Even if i do grab a kit it won't go on until i get another map done for when i grab my Aquamist kit. Another thing Ted, is it even worth grabbing anything below the 40r TS? I'm going to shoot them an email to see what kind of pricing i can get since i'm not looking into grabbing the ic pipes and fmic.

 

Well my idle, believe it or not, improved when I just put on the 35R. It actually drives much smoother then the stocker but, I was pushing that pretty hard.

Running meth or alchy you will be able to run 880's fine with either turbo unless your going to be pushing big boost.

 

If you haven't driven a large turbo 2.0L EVO, you should find a way do that before you jump into it. Riding in it is not the same thing. You need to feel the reduced response from pedal movement to realize the difference. Also, the spool of a 35R 2.0 is considerably later than an FP Green, not just a little. Think at least 500 rpm or more later than the 3800rpm figure you quoted until you get enough boost to begin making more power than a stock turbo, not just a tick on the boost gauge.

I am emphasizing these things because you seem to be minimizing the differences between a 35R (or greater) and an FP Green, and I am telling you they are as different as cheese and chocolate from behind the wheel.

As far as TS, a 35R would deliver very good street feel and maintain good power potential with the right size housing. TS costs more, so it's more of a 'luxury' item at this point.

I don't know what kind of mileage you have on your motor presently, but if it's more than maybe 50k miles, I wouldn't settle on a cheap fix (pistons and rods only). Extracting big power from race gas with a large turbo is a marginal proposition at best with even a fresh stock shortblock.

Just FYI

 

+1 AMS GT37r

 

You have a point there. I know there's a big difference once you jump to a bigger turbo when it comes spool and how much of a built block i should have. The motor only has 14k on it, so i think i should be safe for now.

As far as TS, are you saying that all of the kits offered are luxury or just the ts 35r? I'm not ruling out grabbing either the 37 or 40, but everytime i've contacted Full Race, he sucks me into really wanting to grab that 40r. I just want some opinions on which would be great for a dd, make awesome topend, and not have too much done to the block.

I know there'll be some sacrifice either way i go ts or os, just trying to get the turbo upgrade right. I've seen your posts about how the spool up of a ts vs your old os setup was like night and day. So that really got me looking into TS setups. I gotta give it to you though, thanks for all the info, keep it coming.

 

The difference between the 35R/open scroll and PT67R/TS is like night and day in the way the car feels when driving around town. It's as close as one can come to maximizing power yet minimizing the 'dead pedal' feeling. TS just costs more, that's all.

I'd be cautious going larger than a 35R, especially with a stock block and also if a coventional setup (not TS) is used. I say this because a 35R is already laggy with a 2.0L, and going larger forces the powerband further up in the rpm ranges, where a stock motor isn't going to be especially reliable. I'm lucky in that I only cracked a ring land. If a rod comes through the block, things will become very expensive in a hurry.

 

Ted B I always like reading your posts.

I would think a 40r would be no fun at all for a DD car. I guess if you are big into drag racing, it would be great though.

 

Jasper, since you plan on driving on your evo daily the 35r will kill your DD. I tried driving the 35r for 2 years and I hated it. The lag was horrible and it sucked! The only true benefit was the power after 4000rpms. Anything under that sucked. Only reason why I have a 35r now is because i have a second car to DD. Since we live in Alaska and you probably only go to the track once or twice in a year your better off to go with a 2.3 for the added spoolup and improving your DD greatly. Since you want 10s it shouldn't be an issue. Take it from someone that has the only 35r evo in the state.