arp head studs (yup im gonna pull the head)
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From: hershey pa/williamsport
arp head studs (yup im gonna pull the head)
i wanna know if you guys think its absolutely necesary to take the head to a machine shop while its off to make sure its not warped. or if just pulling the head and putting on a new head gasket is enough? im going with the arps cuz i plan on alky and 27psi
Did you damage the motor or previously take it apart? Just curious why it would be warped if it has retained it's factory seal. If you're still on the stocker, do yourself a favor and don't break the nice factory seal the motor has. There are plenty of evo's boosting 26-29 psi with stock hardware. Save yourself the headache.
Last edited by Nissan2Evo; Sep 27, 2007 at 02:21 AM.
Dont pull the head. Its not necessory to do head studs. Ive been at 500+whp for 20k miles or so and didnt pull the head with no problems. All the guys here local didnt pull the head either.
Well there has been debate on how to install ARP head studs on this forum. I'm not a mechanic and didn't install my studs myself (thanks CBRD) but some people believe in removing the head and placing the studs with new gasket and I believe AMS does not pull the head to place studs. Both great shops. Everyone has there methods.
And to answer your question.................No reason to take your head to a machine shop. New gasket and throw her on there.
jason
And to answer your question.................No reason to take your head to a machine shop. New gasket and throw her on there.
jason
guys im doing the cosi's in my 9, not running meth, should i just skip on the studs, once in a while throw some 110 in there and crank up the boost a lil, sorry for the thread jack
Since you're doing the cams, might as well do the stud. It's just another 30 min to an hour extra. As far as doing the stud go, you'll need to do it one by one. that way you don't have to take the head aout and replce the HG. Good luck and have fun wrenching.
If your going to be in there doing the cams, why not do the Headstuds also. If your going to crank up the boost defiently do the studs. $90 for studs is a lot cheaper the blowing a headgasket or motor.
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I hope you guys don't honestly think you are gonna stretch the factory hardware from boost alone. A bad tune is what causes damage. Tuned you can run 30psi all day long on the stock hardware.
There is no reason to pull the head or replace those bolts.
There is no reason to pull the head or replace those bolts.
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From: hershey pa/williamsport
well i hear alot of mixed opinions on this. If i do put them in i will definatley pull the head. just with me running the alky and alot of psi all day everday i figured it would be a good idea. didn't warrtalon lift and warp his head on alky
Headstuds are an insurance for safety.
You both make valid points. A bad tune for a significant increase in boost can make the heads lift, but so can running alot of boost. They are somewhat related. You cant up the boost effectively without a tune, so both can technically cause the head to lift. Id go ahead and do studs regardless. Just to be sure. 90 dollars and you shouldnt have to pay anymore for labor since your already doing the cams. Its worth it.
Just so you guys know boost does not stretch bolts. Torque is what stretches bolts. This whole talk about psi is just ...well talk.
If you produce massive torque - go ahead and change your bolts. But make sure to pull the head, cause if you listen to some and go the "might as well" route and have the shop put studs in one by one, you can unseat the gasket and do more damage than any good.
If you produce massive torque - go ahead and change your bolts. But make sure to pull the head, cause if you listen to some and go the "might as well" route and have the shop put studs in one by one, you can unseat the gasket and do more damage than any good.
Cough..... Torque... WTF?!?
The $90 ARP studs are no better than the factory stuff. I don't know of anyone that stretched a bolt and lifted the head on clean boost but I know alot of people that have lost a headgasket to a bad tune and not alot of boost.
I won't argue anymore. My suggestion is to get alchy and solid tune. Then run high boost all you want on the stock hardware. If you research the earlier threads on this you will fine hundreds of people running big turbos and 30+ psi on the stock hardware without issues. Its all in the tune. If you are detonating and knocking all over the place then bad things will happen no matter what.
To the OP 27psi with alchy/meth should be safe on the stock hardware for 100k miles AS LONG AS THE TUNE IS GOOD.
The $90 ARP studs are no better than the factory stuff. I don't know of anyone that stretched a bolt and lifted the head on clean boost but I know alot of people that have lost a headgasket to a bad tune and not alot of boost.
I won't argue anymore. My suggestion is to get alchy and solid tune. Then run high boost all you want on the stock hardware. If you research the earlier threads on this you will fine hundreds of people running big turbos and 30+ psi on the stock hardware without issues. Its all in the tune. If you are detonating and knocking all over the place then bad things will happen no matter what.
To the OP 27psi with alchy/meth should be safe on the stock hardware for 100k miles AS LONG AS THE TUNE IS GOOD.
Yeah torque.
If you did not know there's a difference between power levels of a stocker running at 28 psi and a GT40r running at 28 psi, then maybe you should not be giving out any advice.
If you did not know there's a difference between power levels of a stocker running at 28 psi and a GT40r running at 28 psi, then maybe you should not be giving out any advice.


