For those who have ported FP Green hotsides
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From: Charleston, WV
For those who have ported FP Green hotsides
Am I crazy here?
I sent my hotside to them for coating and porting... I was expecting the o2 housing side of the hoside to be ported not the side the manifold connects to... although thats not a bad idea either. I had drawn a line with a sharpy around the gasket on the o2 housing side yet the other side was ported.
I can't deal with another month downtime but I wanted to have the o2 housing matched since it's ported... this sucks.
This is how I sent it:


I sent my hotside to them for coating and porting... I was expecting the o2 housing side of the hoside to be ported not the side the manifold connects to... although thats not a bad idea either. I had drawn a line with a sharpy around the gasket on the o2 housing side yet the other side was ported.
I can't deal with another month downtime but I wanted to have the o2 housing matched since it's ported... this sucks.
This is how I sent it:
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (44)
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From: Charleston, WV
Well the thing is the o2 housing is ported to match the gasket.... I don't know... I need to get the car back together asap or I'm going to be crazy. I will give them a call sometime.
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I had my 10.5 ported by PPI. Wasnt very happy with it, but then again, I didnt have to do it so it was worth it to me in that aspect. If I were to do another hotside porting, I would do it myself and port all that I could.
From what I've heard the 10.5 hotside doesn't really benefit much from having the back side ported like you're describing. The big gains are from porting the twin-scroll inlets on top, like they did. They did a very nice job! I just did mine when I installed a BR SS o2 housing and ported exh manifold this past week and I did about what they did (not as clean since I did not go as far down the inlet as they did I guess):

justchil, I thought you were having it ceramic coated as well? Or did you decide to skip that (I did!)
side note--I do not have a green though, just a stock VIII turbo.

justchil, I thought you were having it ceramic coated as well? Or did you decide to skip that (I did!)
side note--I do not have a green though, just a stock VIII turbo.
i bought the fp green from them with them porting it too. i had to end up taking it off again because they didnt port anything on the o2 sensor side so had to port the flapper valve cause i was getting boost creep there ports jobs are not to hot if you ask me i could port what they do in 5 min
not impressed
but there turbo its self is excelent
not impressed
but there turbo its self is excelent
As stated above, my understanding is also that matching the exhaust manifold ports to the top of the hotside is the more important. That is what I observed recently, as well.
Last weekend, I installed a new FP evogreen turbo with a new Titek O2 housing. The match on the O2 side was pretty close. I just cleaned it up a bit. The manifold side did not align very well. I removed a fair amount of material from the manifold and hotside to get them to match.
Doing gasket match porting is pretty simple stuff if you have a reasonable grinder and cutting bits. All you do is center the gasket on the flange surfaces, one at a time, mark out the inside edge of the gasket on the metal flange surface with a permanent Sharpie, then grind back the metal to the line. Obviously, try to make the surfaces smooth and blend the ground surfaces with the rest of the part. Don't use a Dremel! You'll waste a lot of time and get really frustrated. I use the craftsman equivalent of this tool:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAK-GEO600.html
And a set of bits like this:
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=5046
Last weekend, I installed a new FP evogreen turbo with a new Titek O2 housing. The match on the O2 side was pretty close. I just cleaned it up a bit. The manifold side did not align very well. I removed a fair amount of material from the manifold and hotside to get them to match.
Doing gasket match porting is pretty simple stuff if you have a reasonable grinder and cutting bits. All you do is center the gasket on the flange surfaces, one at a time, mark out the inside edge of the gasket on the metal flange surface with a permanent Sharpie, then grind back the metal to the line. Obviously, try to make the surfaces smooth and blend the ground surfaces with the rest of the part. Don't use a Dremel! You'll waste a lot of time and get really frustrated. I use the craftsman equivalent of this tool:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAK-GEO600.html
And a set of bits like this:
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=5046



