Forge RS blowoff valve opinions/help
#61
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pls1968, I had the same issues, I was actually getting a lot of flutter (no surge) while cruising on the freeway at 70mph in 6th gear at 3k rpm (like clock work) with my stock IX DV. My tuner friend ran some data logs and everything was perfect, he recommended the Forge RS DV, and this was ten times worse. It would Surge and Flutter in almost every gear and at various rpm’s/mph’s (the stocker must be more forgiving). Short story I had bad boost leaks located mainly in the inlet of the LICP and the UICP (stock), I had to revert to using T Bolt clamps and that seemed to rectify the boost leaks. I started adjusting the DV from the lowest setting increasing finally to the setting (according to the Forge instructions for setting the valve) of 26psi. I peak at 25psi to give you an idea, but now I have absolutely no surge and no flutter. Man I know what you’re going through, it’s a real pain.
You gotta read this link, it help me a lot. I highly recommended.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ar.../t-209640.html
You gotta read this link, it help me a lot. I highly recommended.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ar.../t-209640.html
#62
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I am running 28psi on the JDM MR Dv, it holds 25 psi well but not 28psi. I just got my Forge RS in today. Is anyone happy with the Forge RS that is running meth and high boost???
#63
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pls1968, I had the same issues, I was actually getting a lot of flutter (no surge) while cruising on the freeway at 70mph in 6th gear at 3k rpm (like clock work) with my stock IX DV. My tuner friend ran some data logs and everything was perfect, he recommended the Forge RS DV, and this was ten times worse. It would Surge and Flutter in almost every gear and at various rpm’s/mph’s (the stocker must be more forgiving). Short story I had bad boost leaks located mainly in the inlet of the LICP and the UICP (stock), I had to revert to using T Bolt clamps and that seemed to rectify the boost leaks. I started adjusting the DV from the lowest setting increasing finally to the setting (according to the Forge instructions for setting the valve) of 26psi. I peak at 25psi to give you an idea, but now I have absolutely no surge and no flutter. Man I know what you’re going through, it’s a real pain.
You gotta read this link, it help me a lot. I highly recommended.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ar.../t-209640.html
You gotta read this link, it help me a lot. I highly recommended.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ar.../t-209640.html
"Turning the knob clockwise will add spring tension thus stiffening up the valve to hold more boost pressure and turning it counter-clockwise will decrease spring tension thus softening up the valve to hold less boost pressure.
You will need to play with the adjustment to dial in the valve's settings to your own setup.
You will be looking for the valve to be holding the peak boost level of your application while venting properly at throttle lift without any of the driveability issues you speak of, but it will take some trial and error to set it up properly. It's not necessarily going to be tuned right for your car right out of the box."
I tried it and I turned the knob all the way clockwise as suggested because I'm boosting close to 30 psi and it did clear it a little but I still get the flutter and jerks but not as bad. I guess I have to learn how to drive my car all over again and get used to it or put my stocker back on.
#65
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#67
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By the way I contacted Forge Motorsports directly and they were very helpful. I explained that I have the knob turned all the way clockwise as suggested and although it made it better I was still getting the flutters and jerking. They said that it's possible that I may have to install a stiffer spring for high boost applications and asked if one came with my valve. I said no it didn't and they offered either to send me the stiffer spring or send me the valve with the spring already in it. They are very helpful I would suggest a call for anyone who has issues with this Forge RS BOV.
#68
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I emailed Mike at Forge Motorsports and this is what he had to say
"Turning the knob clockwise will add spring tension thus stiffening up the valve to hold more boost pressure and turning it counter-clockwise will decrease spring tension thus softening up the valve to hold less boost pressure.
You will need to play with the adjustment to dial in the valve's settings to your own setup.
You will be looking for the valve to be holding the peak boost level of your application while venting properly at throttle lift without any of the driveability issues you speak of, but it will take some trial and error to set it up properly. It's not necessarily going to be tuned right for your car right out of the box."
I tried it and I turned the knob all the way clockwise as suggested because I'm boosting close to 30 psi and it did clear it a little but I still get the flutter and jerks but not as bad. I guess I have to learn how to drive my car all over again and get used to it or put my stocker back on.
"Turning the knob clockwise will add spring tension thus stiffening up the valve to hold more boost pressure and turning it counter-clockwise will decrease spring tension thus softening up the valve to hold less boost pressure.
You will need to play with the adjustment to dial in the valve's settings to your own setup.
You will be looking for the valve to be holding the peak boost level of your application while venting properly at throttle lift without any of the driveability issues you speak of, but it will take some trial and error to set it up properly. It's not necessarily going to be tuned right for your car right out of the box."
I tried it and I turned the knob all the way clockwise as suggested because I'm boosting close to 30 psi and it did clear it a little but I still get the flutter and jerks but not as bad. I guess I have to learn how to drive my car all over again and get used to it or put my stocker back on.
It does force you to drive differently. Using your rpms a bit more for hills, lifting off the gas differently. It seems like it would be great for track use. (road courses, auto-xs) Not sure if I am going to keep it yet myself although would like to.
EDIT: And sorry to hear about your turbo... damn!
Last edited by pgjoey; Mar 4, 2008 at 07:25 PM.
#69
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I would appreciate it. PM me.
By the way I contacted Forge Motorsports directly and they were very helpful. I explained that I have the knob turned all the way clockwise as suggested and although it made it better I was still getting the flutters and jerking. They said that it's possible that I may have to install a stiffer spring for high boost applications and asked if one came with my valve. I said no it didn't and they offered either to send me the stiffer spring or send me the valve with the spring already in it. They are very helpful I would suggest a call for anyone who has issues with this Forge RS BOV.
By the way I contacted Forge Motorsports directly and they were very helpful. I explained that I have the knob turned all the way clockwise as suggested and although it made it better I was still getting the flutters and jerking. They said that it's possible that I may have to install a stiffer spring for high boost applications and asked if one came with my valve. I said no it didn't and they offered either to send me the stiffer spring or send me the valve with the spring already in it. They are very helpful I would suggest a call for anyone who has issues with this Forge RS BOV.
Has anyone tried the stiffer spring?
#70
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It has the Hard Spring (stiffer).
I have tried many BOVs'. I kept this one as it works the best. Holds boost and sounds great. It has adjustment feature.
I give it a up on this BOV, with the stiffer, Hi PSI spring.
#72
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I use the Forge RS BOV. Works great. No issues with it.
It has the Hard Spring (stiffer).
I have tried many BOVs'. I kept this one as it works the best. Holds boost and sounds great. It has adjustment feature.
I give it a up on this BOV, with the stiffer, Hi PSI spring.
It has the Hard Spring (stiffer).
I have tried many BOVs'. I kept this one as it works the best. Holds boost and sounds great. It has adjustment feature.
I give it a up on this BOV, with the stiffer, Hi PSI spring.
i think i will try the harder spring for testing purpose.
c
#73
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I use the Forge RS BOV. Works great. No issues with it.
It has the Hard Spring (stiffer).
I have tried many BOVs'. I kept this one as it works the best. Holds boost and sounds great. It has adjustment feature.
I give it a up on this BOV, with the stiffer, Hi PSI spring.
It has the Hard Spring (stiffer).
I have tried many BOVs'. I kept this one as it works the best. Holds boost and sounds great. It has adjustment feature.
I give it a up on this BOV, with the stiffer, Hi PSI spring.
how is yours adjusted with the stiffer spring? how much boost are you running?
c
#74
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you will be happy with the Forge if..
#75
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Pls1968 sorry I haven’t got you that information yet (been real busy), I will tho. Hey I’m real confessed about that harder spring people are telling you about? I know that some models of the valve have that capability of changing it out, but the Forge Divert Valve RS (with the adjustable knob) doesn’t have that ability (mine doesn’t, I could be wrong). I gotta get you that information.
A little flutter is ok and normal in some situations (mine doesn’t, not even a little), but BUCKING isn’t a good thing ever! You gotta check for leaks if you haven’t already, that was half of all my problems (takes but a few min to boost leak test from your tuner).
A little flutter is ok and normal in some situations (mine doesn’t, not even a little), but BUCKING isn’t a good thing ever! You gotta check for leaks if you haven’t already, that was half of all my problems (takes but a few min to boost leak test from your tuner).