o2 sensor wire ripped!
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 103
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From: Jersey City, NJ
o2 sensor wire ripped!
is it bad if ur o2 wire is ripped?
the white one is ripped on mine and caused my engine light to go on.
I put electric wire for now..is it ok to mend it back together? and is it bad to drive the car?
the white one is ripped on mine and caused my engine light to go on.
I put electric wire for now..is it ok to mend it back together? and is it bad to drive the car?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Jersey City, NJ
well im running catless...so my boy made me me a diy anti-fouler.. anyway wen we screwed the o2 it was kinda twisted..i guess over time and heat it rubbed and caused it to rip....
first i thought it was from the o2 being clogged or something. i clean it with carb cleaner and it was gone for a few hrs..then it went back on..
although the diy anti-worked like a charm.
first i thought it was from the o2 being clogged or something. i clean it with carb cleaner and it was gone for a few hrs..then it went back on..
although the diy anti-worked like a charm.
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The white wire is the heater wire for your o2 sensor. The o2 is still getting power and signal from the blue wire so it's technically ok. A new o2 sensor will run you about 400 and change from the stealership. Anywhere online is about the same. You CANNOT solder the wires on an o2 sensor as it is heat resistant and solder will just not stick no matter how hot you get it or what kind you use. The ECU is looking for 2 signals - the o2 (blue) and the heater (white). Couple options:
1. Remove your passenger seat and disconnect the sensor completely and install an o2/heater electronic simulator. You can google them and search here, run about 30 bucks for everything and is sorta plug and play. Perrin, o2sim.com, etc all make them. If you can install a car stereo you can do that. (highly recomm. because you will no longer have that sh** sticking under your car waiting to get busted off)
2. With passenger seat out again, you can cut the white wire so that you have plenty of slack, and strip a bit of the blue wire. Basically all the ECU is concerned about is that it's getting resistance from the heater wire. Get 2 10watt 10ohm resistors or just 1 20 ohm 10 watt one, whichever, and solder one end to the white and one end to the blue. It will take the power from the blue wire, bring it down to 20 ohms and send it back down the white wire to the ECU. Reset the ecu and walla no more CEL.
If you don't understand any of this get a friend that does, buy him/her a 6 pack and you should be aight.
Also remember when doing ANY electrical work, take your neg. batt. cable off. Ask me how i know
1. Remove your passenger seat and disconnect the sensor completely and install an o2/heater electronic simulator. You can google them and search here, run about 30 bucks for everything and is sorta plug and play. Perrin, o2sim.com, etc all make them. If you can install a car stereo you can do that. (highly recomm. because you will no longer have that sh** sticking under your car waiting to get busted off)
2. With passenger seat out again, you can cut the white wire so that you have plenty of slack, and strip a bit of the blue wire. Basically all the ECU is concerned about is that it's getting resistance from the heater wire. Get 2 10watt 10ohm resistors or just 1 20 ohm 10 watt one, whichever, and solder one end to the white and one end to the blue. It will take the power from the blue wire, bring it down to 20 ohms and send it back down the white wire to the ECU. Reset the ecu and walla no more CEL.
If you don't understand any of this get a friend that does, buy him/her a 6 pack and you should be aight.
Also remember when doing ANY electrical work, take your neg. batt. cable off. Ask me how i know
Last edited by Balrok; Oct 8, 2007 at 01:17 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Jersey City, NJ
The white wire is the heater wire for your o2 sensor. The o2 is still getting power and signal from the blue wire so it's technically ok. A new o2 sensor will run you about 400 and change from the stealership. Anywhere online is about the same. You CANNOT solder the wires on an o2 sensor as it is heat resistant and solder will just not stick no matter how hot you get it or what kind you use. The ECU is looking for 2 signals - the o2 (blue) and the heater (white). Couple options:
1. Remove your passenger seat and disconnect the sensor completely and install an o2/heater electronic simulator. You can google them and search here, run about 30 bucks for everything and is sorta plug and play. Perrin, o2sim.com, etc all make them. If you can install a car stereo you can do that. (highly recomm. because you will no longer have that sh** sticking under your car waiting to get busted off)
2. With passenger seat out again, you can cut the white wire so that you have plenty of slack, and strip a bit of the blue wire. Basically all the ECU is concerned about is that it's getting resistance from the heater wire. Get 2 10watt 10ohm resistors or just 1 20 ohm 10 watt one, whichever, and solder one end to the white and one end to the blue. It will take the power from the blue wire, bring it down to 20 ohms and send it back down the white wire to the ECU. Reset the ecu and walla no more CEL.
If you don't understand any of this get a friend that does, buy him/her a 6 pack and you should be aight.
Also remember when doing ANY electrical work, take your neg. batt. cable off. Ask me how i know
1. Remove your passenger seat and disconnect the sensor completely and install an o2/heater electronic simulator. You can google them and search here, run about 30 bucks for everything and is sorta plug and play. Perrin, o2sim.com, etc all make them. If you can install a car stereo you can do that. (highly recomm. because you will no longer have that sh** sticking under your car waiting to get busted off)
2. With passenger seat out again, you can cut the white wire so that you have plenty of slack, and strip a bit of the blue wire. Basically all the ECU is concerned about is that it's getting resistance from the heater wire. Get 2 10watt 10ohm resistors or just 1 20 ohm 10 watt one, whichever, and solder one end to the white and one end to the blue. It will take the power from the blue wire, bring it down to 20 ohms and send it back down the white wire to the ECU. Reset the ecu and walla no more CEL.
If you don't understand any of this get a friend that does, buy him/her a 6 pack and you should be aight.
Also remember when doing ANY electrical work, take your neg. batt. cable off. Ask me how i know
Yooooo brooo cheers!!!
thanks!ok...how?
oh i found this..this is all i need right? its way cheaper
http://www.automedicsupply.com/catal...?&pkey=1431370
let me know if this is good...
Eh, they don't have direct listing for mitsu, but basically you'd want a 4 wire o2 with the same plug style. One thing to be careful about is where the wires match up at. On the mitsu one they flip the connections at the connector. So white goes to black, blue goes to black2, black goes to white and so on and so forth. I'd call em up and tell them what you have and see if they seem like they know wtf your talking about.
