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Simple answer? Oil Loss 1 qt/ 500 miles. BAD BLOWBY?

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Old Nov 3, 2007, 08:40 PM
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that mototune sight was the sight that i was looking for.

But really, the HP claims are a bit out there...but it is definitely valid for breaking in the engine
Old Nov 3, 2007, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brianb
The soot and "Diesel" look is due to being overly rich... i.e. you need a tune.
If he was burning diesel. The soot (C) is from oil, gasoline does not yield carbon, it yields CO then CO2
Old Nov 4, 2007, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by smokedmustang

Ok, I did 4 cranks each plug hole, (All plugs removed).

Have you tried cycling the starter about 7 times for each cyl? 4 hits on the starter is just barely enough to get a full stroke of each cyl. My engine has always been 188/182/183/183 with same guage with 7 turns, like since 2005 40,000 miles ago. And has burned about 1/2 qt oil /1000 miles since it had 18 miles on the odometer. My guess is the oil is finding it's way through the PVC valve ( which will make it knock)
Old Nov 4, 2007, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
If he was burning diesel. The soot (C) is from oil, gasoline does not yield carbon, it yields CO then CO2
That is what I thought. I am trying to figure out what your screenname is. I assume you are a chemist. What chemical formula is C6C6CH3? Is there an explanation for your screenname?
Old Nov 4, 2007, 01:36 PM
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Ok, had a drink with a friend of mine, who has a single digit Subie with a stroker motor. He said I might be OK, with my car, and that if the #'s across the board are consistant, that is the key. They are (130) so, he had the same problem when he was running pig rich: had INCREASED crank case pressure, diesleing out the tailpipe, but he got it tuned, and all is OK with his car now. Is there an association with me thinking the rings are bad, and I am running so rich? Would a tune dump the washing out, and in a sence restore the car running the way it should? No more black smoke out the tailpipe, and a DECREASE in crankcase pressure? Anyone want to weigh in here? Would my compression numbers change with a tune? Or does the consistency between the cylinders all that matters? Thanks again, in advance.
Old Nov 4, 2007, 03:36 PM
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Nobody else want to take a stab at this? LOL.

T or F:

If Compression test reveals equal numbers across the board, that is normal, regardless of the number.

T or F:

A proper tune will eliminate the dieseling smoke cloud coming out of the back end at WOT, and will then reduce my crankcase pressure. With me driving with a RICH running condition, this will cause my aformentioned INCREASE in crankcase pressure. (Which will cause the air blowby thru the oil fill hole, and cause the pcv hose to pop off the valve cover.)
Old Nov 4, 2007, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by smokedmustang
Nobody else want to take a stab at this? LOL.

T or F:

If Compression test reveals equal numbers across the board, that is normal, regardless of the number.

T or F:

A proper tune will eliminate the dieseling smoke cloud coming out of the back end at WOT, and will then reduce my crankcase pressure. With me driving with a RICH running condition, this will cause my aformentioned INCREASE in crankcase pressure. (Which will cause the air blowby thru the oil fill hole, and cause the pcv hose to pop off the valve cover.)
#1 F, but it *depends*. Lower numbers are worse, but sometimes a the tester itself can be the culperate of low or slightly low numbers. Try doing a few more cranks per cyl, it could still go up after only 4 cranks. 10 is usually the most you'll want to do though.

#2: No, a tune will not 'fix' or 'heal' your compression numbers. If the washout as you say is what caused the rings to degrade, then the damage is done, and you now know that you shouldn't beat on a car that's not tuned, plain and simple.

Finally, as a general comment, I don't think it is at all normal for a stroker to burn oil any more than a std stroke motor. Run it like it is until you can rebuild it and *get* *a* *tune!*
Old Nov 4, 2007, 05:59 PM
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Thanks for the reply scheides! Appreciate the input. I will do a few more cranks and re-test again. I am not sure how long the excessive black smoke at WOT was there, but I haven't been beating on the car, and am rarely in boost any more either.

I will try to finish the tune, and see what happens. If the tune is done, and there is less crankcase pressure, and the smoke is gone at WOT, that would indicate NO RING dammage then? Again, thanks.
Old Nov 4, 2007, 08:53 PM
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Cool

Originally Posted by smokedmustang
Nobody else want to take a stab at this? LOL.

T or F:

If Compression test reveals equal numbers across the board, that is normal, regardless of the number.

T or F:

A proper tune will eliminate the dieseling smoke cloud coming out of the back end at WOT, and will then reduce my crankcase pressure. With me driving with a RICH running condition, this will cause my aformentioned INCREASE in crankcase pressure. (Which will cause the air blowby thru the oil fill hole, and cause the pcv hose to pop off the valve cover.)
1. true. it will just show a "weak" ring set, not necessarily a bad ring. the cylinder itself could be bad-out of round when bored/honed. also, did you open the throttle body all the way during the test?? allowing maximum air to fill the cylinders?? lower numbers are also sometimes causes by cams and the delay of actual airflow dynamic when the engine is running versus just getting cranked over.

when a block is bored or honed, it is suggested that you ask the machinist what he uses during the torque plating. IF he used bolts, then you should be using bolts for the head. if he is using STUDS then you should use studs. the dynamics of each are different on the block itself once it is assembled. they distort the cylinders differently once the head is installed.


2. loaded question. true and False.

the first part of your statement/question is true, you brain surgeon.... you should know that. however, yes it is true that the tune will help drastically to eliminate the smoke/rich mixture, it will not help the blowby. the extremely rich afr's will constantly wash down the cylinder walls and leave you with little lubrication for the rings...since they only are supplied by a splash from the crankshaft...


hope that helps you a little Smokey..
Old Nov 5, 2007, 02:46 AM
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Well hello there Badhabit! Great to hear from you again! I will finish the tune and recheck the compression. It is the AMS stroker motor, and they put it together, so I know they know what they are doing. (I bought a complete new shortblock from them last year)

I am going to go ahead and finish the tune this week, then see what changes. Good thing I waited for more info, I would have just pulled the motor apart without thinking twice. The motor/rings might be fine afterall, will see. I will tune/recheck compression, and for the hell of it, do a leakdown test. Thanks for the input habit.

I just cranked over the engine 4 times with the compression test. didn't open the throttle or step on the gas........................should I do that?
Old Nov 5, 2007, 07:25 AM
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Press the gas pedal ALL the way to the floor, and about 7 to 8 cranks and see what that gives you. 4 cranks really isnt enough.
Old Nov 5, 2007, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by itzwolf
Press the gas pedal ALL the way to the floor, and about 7 to 8 cranks and see what that gives you. 4 cranks really isnt enough.
Sweet! I will do that, I never knew you had to hold the pedal down. Thanks.
Old Nov 5, 2007, 12:53 PM
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I agree and disagree about the first question...low numbers generally mean something is up with the engine, and if they're all the same....I would feel something in the rings would be suspect.

I would HOPE that the difference's in the stroker engine and the stocker are minscule enough that burning that much oil would not occur.

BUT, if the tune was that rich and you were getting so much smoke, it seems only logical to assume the rings were eventually damaged by the fuel washing down the cylinder walls and rings, which will cause excessive friction, heat and damage....

So in the long run, I would say-forget what I had said before. Put new rings, get a good, efficient tune and you hopefully will be fine....

Best of lucked, smoked.
Old Nov 5, 2007, 04:18 PM
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Smokedstang: Do you have a catch for the PVC line? The deposit on my tail pipe stopped once I made sure the oil didnt enter combustion. Most importantly it stopped knocking. Running rich might play a roll if severly washing the sump. The oil may vaporise with the fuel easier I would guess.

You might have paranoid mechanic syndrome and be OK. I once replaced a set of rod bearings from this same disease
Old Nov 5, 2007, 05:47 PM
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I had an oil catch can, removed it, and put it all back to stock configuration. I better recheck the hoses. Thanks.


Quick Reply: Simple answer? Oil Loss 1 qt/ 500 miles. BAD BLOWBY?



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