car wont start
Do you have a check engine light on? I don't think that you can splice together that 02 wire as it is a heating circuit. I would put a scan tool on it and see if any codes come up. I recently had a no start problem and it was the crank angle sensor. My best guess is that the 02 wire that you spliced back together did not work and you were not getting any readings from the sensor. If this were the case the car would have no idea how much fuel to add and you could have run lean and really broke something from detonation. Or maybe the ecu will not allow the car to start without recieving data from the 02.
After splicing the wires and installing the pump I drove the car for a good four hours taking it throught the RPMs, and everything was fine, didn't get any check engine lights. The wlabro was in the car ever since I bought it, I just didn't realize it until I took the assembly apart.
The new ones which I drove for 3 days on were at .27-.28, but I put the old ones back in, which seem to be a little higher, still no start.
Isn't there a way to force the enigne to combust, by bypassing the whole fuel system? I think I seen a mechanic pour a couple droplets of gasoline in the( I have no idea, maybe cylinder through the spark plug) to check if it was the fuel system at fault or no.
Could this be a headgasket, piston ring, spun bearing ?
The oil doesn't look like it has mixed with anything, I'm going to try and spin the crank with a ratchet and see how that goes.
Isn't there a way to force the enigne to combust, by bypassing the whole fuel system? I think I seen a mechanic pour a couple droplets of gasoline in the( I have no idea, maybe cylinder through the spark plug) to check if it was the fuel system at fault or no.
Could this be a headgasket, piston ring, spun bearing ?
The oil doesn't look like it has mixed with anything, I'm going to try and spin the crank with a ratchet and see how that goes.
I'm still waiting to do the compression test, but when I tried turning the crank with a rathet it seemed like it was okay. The crank would turn fairly easy, with it getting harder to turn on the compression stroke and then finaly just recoiling back around.
Would I be able to check for a spark just by pulling the spark plugs out and leaving them in the coil while turning the ignition key, or do they have to be grounded against the engine block?
Would I be able to check for a spark just by pulling the spark plugs out and leaving them in the coil while turning the ignition key, or do they have to be grounded against the engine block?
I had an issue as I was putting in my fuel pump, where I didn't set the black rubber grommet up correctly with the white spacer on the fuel pump. Maybe thats a culprit, because the car would just crank for days, but it would not start. turned out the grommet was sliced and wouldn't hold the fuel psi.
I'll try to get the SES scanner by tomorrow. Someone took a look at it tonight and he said the pump doesn't sound nearly as loud as it should. Tomorrow I'm gonna take the assembly apart and let you guys know whats going on with the pump.
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From: Rewinding motors - Venezuela
Checked all the piping it seems nice and snug. Than tried to start it with both the MAF sensor unplugged and plugged. The engine cranks it just doesnt want to fire up. I cut the wires connected to the o2 sensor, the one that sits in the o2 housing, so i had to splice them together, but there were two black ones. not being sure with which ones to connect together, I just grabbed the first best.
The problem was in the fuel pump assembly. There is a black plug with a copper tab sticking out of it on the bottom part of the fuel assembly. That plug was halfway out, and I guess that was preventing the pump from building sufficient preassure.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Thanks for the replies guys.
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911_Evo
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
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May 10, 2010 01:39 PM









