hi guys looking for some advice.have a 1997 evo mods as follows;
built bottom end
greddy type-m intercooler kit
atp 3071r
3" from turbo back
4"intake
720cc injectors
walbro pump
turbosmart 38mm external wastegate.
power fc

just had it back on the dyno made just under 340whp on 18psi,couldnt go any higher as there was an ignition problem (mis-fire) the tuner thinks it could be the factory coils breaking down.

what would every one reccomend as a solution??

thanks in advance to anyone willing to help

 

Bushur does make some ignition parts for the newer evos.You could check with them.

 

New plugs first. Then if that doesn't fix it, decrease the plug gap. If the misfiring doesn't occur until a higher boost level or goes away completely, that tells you that it is an ignition problem.

 

Can you help me to understand more of what you just said.....new plugs...then if not gone....smaller gap....and if the misfiring doesn't occure until higher boost or not at all (which if was "not at all" wouldn't that mean the new plugs/less gap worked?) and hence there would be no ignition problem?

If it goes the way you said it just sounds backwards....please help i'm an idiot

 

I think he meant to say change your plugs first...at the very least you should check them to see if they are ok. Then gap them

 

What I meant is that it will tell him if it WAS an ignition problem. And it really still IS, even if the bandaids fixed it. If these solutions "fix" the problem, then that means he is running close to the limit of the ignition. The real problem is still there, he just has masked it. He will probably need to put in new plugs more often, and may have problems on really cool days(denser air), or if he bumps the boost up even more. Or if his AF ratio starts gets too fat under WOT, etc.

If the new plugs by themselves fix it without having to lower the gap, he has a little more headroom before he starts running in to the problem again. Because he can always still gap the plugs down.

 

Appreciate you expanding on the answer

 

ok should have said,hve already replaced the plugs with 1range colder plug,and gaped them so basically pretty sure im reaching the limits of the factory ignition system,would something like an hks twin power dis2 do the trick?

 

Did you replace the plug wires too? Not familiar with the earlier Evos, but I am assuming the ignition system is similar to what we were getting in the US on the Eclipses. Have you physically inspected the terminals on the coils?

Did the new plugs or decreasing the gap make ANY difference? And how far down did you gap it?

Something like the HKS may help, but only if the rest of your system is operating properly. For example, if you put a new higher power ignition on, and the problem was bad plug wires, you could actually make it misfire worse than before.

 

He's got an Evo IV, the evo IV used a 7 bolt 4g63 motor. The Eclipses used a 6 bolt version 4g63, the one found on the Evo I to III. I suggest using the Sunauto ignition amplifier with one step colder than factory iridium plugs (might not need to change the plugs but it could work). I think the Sunauto unit is much better than the HKS DLI II becaue theres a built in fuse and for whatever reason the Sunauto is protected from electrical surges from the system. The HKS DLI II is not because there is no built in fuse which results in many that have fried themselves due to some electrical disturbance in the system.

 

That is incorrect. The 95-99 Eclipse turbos used the 7 bolt motor. But that makes no difference, we are talking about comparing ignition systems, not the differences in the engines themselves. All eclipses, 6 and 7 bolt, use the exact same ignition setup. The only difference is the tach feed on the very early ones.


I'd be very skeptical of anything Sun Auto sells. Anyone that makes up terms like "voltage resistance" to try to sound technical should be examined closely. And anyone who has actually dissected one of their hyper voltage boxes(accidentally, I'd never admit to having bought one) would see how much of a scam it is. But on the bright side, something that doesn't really do anything, probably isn't going to harm the car.

At least HKS seems to have the ability to produce legitimate products, and have done so for a long time. I haven't tested their DLI box though.

My suggestion is to first try to make sure your existing components are up to spec, before going and spending $$ on aftermarket ignition products. If you select a good one, they WILL fix some problems. But a lot of people sell snake oil, because it is so easy since few people truly understand how ignitions work.

If it is a problem with parts already on your car, you will only fix the problem if you repair/replace that specific part. Putting a fancy ignition on the car won't fix the problem if your plug wires or coil is the culprit, unless the ignition replaces those parts too.

 

I don't want to digress to far off topic but are you sure you got the units correct? The hyper voltage is a grounding unit from Sunauto and the hyper force is the ignition amplifier. He already replaced the plugs so that's not it, the cables might need to be replaced but also an ignition amplifier at his stage of modifications can't exaclty hurt as well.

 

Actually an ignition amplifier(which is a poor term to use) CAN hurt, if he has bad plug wires, or other defective stock part. I've had it happen. Higher voltage at the coils and increased current can result in making it easier for the plug wires to break down, or the coil to arc over, or whatever stock part is going bad.

And yes I am aware of the differences between the units. My point is that when many of their products ARE bs/snake oil, why would you blindly trust that another product they are selling with the same marketing claims, isn't crap as well? There are several legitimate products from legitimate companies that will provide a significantly improved spark at higher boost levels and rpm.

 

They did do a comparison test between the Sunauto unit and HKS unit and the difference was by 5whp. I think speedelement did the test on their shop dyno. The sunauto is $50+ less than the HKS unit, I think you get more for your money when compared to the HKS unit.