My EvoIX goes into limp mode...
My EvoIX goes into limp mode...
Gentlemen,
I have a problem. After I start my evo and make it warm up completely (coolant goes up to the 82 degress C and idle stabilizes) I can drive it just fine. But then something "breaks", I have CEL shown up the car goes in the limp mode. When I push gas peddale it takes some time befre revs start to go up. And also when cruising at the constant speed I have an impression like somebody is really "playing" with the gas pedal pushing it and releasing just a bit (car accelerates and breaks with the engine just a bit). Also idle breaks as well... Turning ingnition off and on does not help. Resetting the ECU does, but for a very short time (few miles). I've read the log with the EvoScan but it say something like "barometric pressure sensor" and from the forum I see it's not true (I have European EvoIX) and EvoScan reads junk. Also I cannot reset this code.
Can somebody give me a hint what could be wrong? What to check?
Thanks!
-anton
I have a problem. After I start my evo and make it warm up completely (coolant goes up to the 82 degress C and idle stabilizes) I can drive it just fine. But then something "breaks", I have CEL shown up the car goes in the limp mode. When I push gas peddale it takes some time befre revs start to go up. And also when cruising at the constant speed I have an impression like somebody is really "playing" with the gas pedal pushing it and releasing just a bit (car accelerates and breaks with the engine just a bit). Also idle breaks as well... Turning ingnition off and on does not help. Resetting the ECU does, but for a very short time (few miles). I've read the log with the EvoScan but it say something like "barometric pressure sensor" and from the forum I see it's not true (I have European EvoIX) and EvoScan reads junk. Also I cannot reset this code.
Can somebody give me a hint what could be wrong? What to check?
Thanks!
-anton
You may have a boost leak somewhere in your engine bay or maybe a bad sensor. I'm not sure if the dealers are as junk over there as they are here, but you could try them or bring it to a well known shop that works on Evos?
I don't think it's a boost leak as if the wather is OK (not very humid) everything works fine. Boost leaks are always ON 
I'm sick of the local shops. So I want to localize the issue myself. Is there any software to scan the code? EvoScan seems to return bogus error code values.

I'm sick of the local shops. So I want to localize the issue myself. Is there any software to scan the code? EvoScan seems to return bogus error code values.
I had the same problem.. it ended up being my maf sensor. When i was cleaning my intake somehow i disconnected it and it would read weird, that why it feels like its boost cutting, or jurking when you driving... try and check it if is.. all i did was disconnect it and reconnect it. and it worked for me.. hope this helps
Disconnected-recommended, polished the contacts - nothing... I also feel like it's broken MAF so I'll be getting used working one (surprisingly it's from the Evo8 I've owned 1.5 years ago...). Hope my old Evo8 (R.I.P. it's disassembly after major crash) will help to my new Evo9.
I had the same problem.. it ended up being my maf sensor. When i was cleaning my intake somehow i disconnected it and it would read weird, that why it feels like its boost cutting, or jurking when you driving... try and check it if is.. all i did was disconnect it and reconnect it. and it worked for me.. hope this helps
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OK, computer always shows P0125 error as active. Doing ECU reset fixes the thing for some time but after CEL comes back - machine starts to shake on idle and behave slow on pushing gas. Any ideas?
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DTC P0125: Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop
you may have a faulty coolant temperature sensor...idk, check on that if i were you. if it's not that, then i have no idea what it may be
you may have a faulty coolant temperature sensor...idk, check on that if i were you. if it's not that, then i have no idea what it may be
I don't think so... Loggers show no bogus values, temerature goes up and down in a quite predictable way. I'll try to swap block temp sensor for a working one but I'm pretty sure it's not the key 

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