OK, I need some input, guys. I am doing this in car. What else am I forgetting or what else do I need? I will most likely be running 28+ psi on this green turbo with the stock MAF. (of course 100 octane or better) I will be running one step colder NGK Iridium Plugs (BPR8EIX)
This is what I have so far...

Upgrades (things I have already):
FPGreen
Wiseco Standard Size Pistons
Eagle Rods w/ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Mainbolts
ARP Head Studs
GSC S2 Camshafts (I'll tell you why. I might be going bigger later on. )
Buschur Racing Dual Valespring Titanium Seat/Retainer Set
Ferrea Competition 6000 Standard Size Valves
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears
GReddy Timing And Balance Shaft Belts
Fluidampr Pulley
Cosworth Rod Bearings (Should I get different bearings?)-(Should I replace main bearings too?)
Works Diverter Valve
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
750cc RC Injectors
Exedy Stage 1 Organic Clutch
Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
Muse Ported Cast Manifold
TTP-Engineering O2 Housing
Ebay Test Pipe
Ebay Downpipe
Buschur Racing SCCA Legal Catback Exahust

Things I'm still getting:
Buschur Racing Mass Air Pipe w/Filter Kit
Buschur Racing Upper Intercooler Piping Kit w/stock style diverter flange
Buschur Racing Mini Battery Kit
Gasket Maker for Engine Oil Pan (I called Mitsu and they said that is what's used)

Gaskets And Seals:
2 Camshaft Seals
Valvecover Gasket
OEM Head Gasket
OEM Intake Manifold Gasket
Camshaft Sensor Housing Plate Gasket
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
Turbo Oil Return Line Gaskets
Turbo Discharge Pipe Gasket
OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Blue Viton Valve Stem Seals

Things I Might Get:
Buschur Racing 65mm Throttlebody
Buschur Racing Ported Intake Manifold
(Would this really, really help?) I know that increasing intake manifold area will decrease throttle response due to less velocity, but it should help with WOT in the upper RPMS. Anyone ever bolted these things up and noticed a power increase? I mean just these 2 things.

Any input would be surely appreciated.

 

So you're doing a drop in build I figure? It looks like you got everything covered. The pulley might be unnecessary and I figure you have a wideband, oil pressure gauge etc.. for some state of mind. Good luck

 

I assume you're talking about the Fluidampr pulley, right?

I'm going to school for automotive repair engineering and from what I learned, I pretty much need it so I figured it to be on the safe side since I'll be altering the engine internals and the torsional vibrations of the engine are gonna be completely different from what has been designed into the stock pulley.

 

I don't have a wideband but will be getting an oil pressure gauge.

 

Wide band should be a must I would say. Id worry about my AFR before oil pressure only because there really shouldnt be any problems normally with you oil pressure on a new engine.

 

have to agree with Evo8 here, i watch my wideband more than i watch boost!!!

that should be the first thing you put in

 

thanks

 

Is the engine in the car? If not I would pull the balance shafts. You are upgrading the valavetrain to spin to high RPM yet leaving the shafts in which are a big risk at high RPM? I did it recently and it was a great mod with no regrets. Less rotating mass and no vibration issues. . You may want to thermal coat the intake manifold to keep the heat out. Defintly have it ported with the TB. Wiseco would not have been my choice for pistons, but that is up to you. I like CP and love the rings that they use. Made of tool steel and seat quickly. Unless you can get someone reputable to vouch for the cosworth bearings, I would stick with OEM. Tried and true. I know cosworth has a great rep, but real world testing proves everything.

 

The motor is still in the car and I am doing this project in car.

 

Wow, looks like a nice build.

 

Meth... along with a boost solenoid for boost cut failsafe unless your planning on running race gas or just want to run pump. Of course 28psi is a little high for pump but it's do-able with the right tune I guess.

 

Oh, I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that my tune is going to be on 100 octane Tonoco Race Fuel. (I think it's Tonoco. Either that or some race fuel that starts with a T.)

 

You should consider our TTP-Spec pistons only being made in std bore so they are perfect for your drop in build.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hlight=pistons

 

Man your doing all that maybe you should just take the motor out?

Would it be easier and faster that way?

 

I would get a twin disk, The race bearings (main and rod) from AMS (not listed on their site) AMS balance shaft eliminator.