hah. yes, i saw some videos, and read up on the roll centre kit. That is definitely going to be in my next batch of goodies that I order. Most likely along with the bushing kit and the bump steer kit. I think after that, I should ahve pretty much taken care of any tire-to-pavement efficiency problems What else do you recommend? I am most likely going to rid of my 27mm agency power rear sway bar. It makes the car feel like a RWD in the wet. Rather dangerous... and now my rear tires wear quicker than the fronts. I think it's too stiff for having a stock front sway. I'm going to get the hollow 25mm hotchkis instead and set her to soft. (since soft is still a bit % stiffer than stock, without all of the over-steering on initial aiming of the tires). I'm not going to lie... it's become QUITE the tail kicking fun with the 27mm... sooo balanced mid-drift... but I'm not into that, I'm into sticking, and balance, and with the 27mm bar, on soft, the issue exists... I cant imagine on medium or hard.

If I get the hotchkis.... do you recommend a front as well? people are saying leave the front alone if you get a 25mm hotchkis.

I'm also looking into an ignition system. HKS looks good, but expensive and fragile.

Looks like another couple grand are going to get spent in the next month or so.

 

good luck man i love the fq400 but like the other guy said if u going to do it u need MITSU FQ-400 PARTS

 

if he would have done that it probably would have been more expensive and not as efficient. remember that the turbo that the original FQ-400 had was like a 30R or 35R yet it only made 400bhp. This car is gonna make about 450whp on a dynojet on pump gas with the FPRed and it will probably will spool better than the turbo the fq400 had, cause when top gear tested it, the lag was crazy. of course he started in the last gear which is stupid, but still this set-up is superior to the one from factory and its a lot less expensive, as the fq400 was around 80K pounds. props to MRM....BTW i installed the coilovers and I'm pretty sure its lower about 2 inches all around compared to stock, I took a look at your pictures and I'll compare them with the way mine sits.

 

I'm convinced you didn't read more than a couple replies of my post at all. I said actually in my first post, I'm not trying to replicate the fq400 AT ALL, because quite frankly, it was a failure as someone stated in this thread. I just wanted to make a car, that can handle either the same or better than an FQ, can stop either the same or better than an FQ, and accellerate either the same or better than the FQ400.

I know its a long thread, but it was a 1 year project, and I'm pretty much done. Note the dyno sheets, and the work done. The top speed on my car (theoretically with gearing) is 200mph, but I would laugh at the possibility of the aerodynamics allowing me to hit that speed. at least she can rev to about 8500.

Also, I'm hitting about 480hp to the wheels and 400tq. Look through the post, the dyno sheets are there. So please read before posting

well... 450 is a thing of the past... again... read the previous pages. dyno sheets are there. This is now Project FQ500 Mission Accomplished LoL

 

Here's a better pic of how low I have mine.

 

Wow awesome numbers on pump gas man. Thats about 100whp above what i'm making with my green. The car must be a total blast to drive. Now lets see some time slips...

 

hah. sure. I'll take it to a quarter mile track soon. I'm really not into launching the car. truth be told, my teeth would cringe everytime i did about 2 months ago when i went to island dragway. I was pushing 425whp at that time, and had HORRIBLE 60 ft's. (everyone was having grip issuess) and since I have the MR, the first, and second gear rev up so quick, its hard to modulate the throttle to grip right if there are traction problems. I think my 60' was something rediculous like a 2.0 or 2.2. My MPH was great for having such low HP. 125mph. I can't imagine what i'll be doing with another 50hp and 25tq. Not to mention, another 1000rpms to rev through that actually have power cause of the cams. I predict 130mph... but I really really really hate launching the car. My buddies tell me its a 10.8-10.9 car easily with full interior and all, and that my yokohama advans are actually hurting the launch because the sidewalls are so hard. All common sense really, but if I'm going to quartermile, I'm going to quartermile it the way I'd be driving it if I were everyday driving it. Same tires, same tire psi, same turbo psi, same interior, same tank of gas. Real world numbers are what I love...

I'm more of a circuit racing kinda guy anyway. I hate to say it, but if i wanted to do straight up quartermiling... I'd buy me an american muscle car with rwd

So your in the upper 300's? What ECU are you running? pump? and how do you like it?

 

that's a good pic as the other one was angled..thanks. I still need to lower my front a bit more then. I forgot you had AEM because stock ecu red's make about 440-450whp, I just hadn't seen your graph for a few days. Thanks, also I feel that the ride is smoother than stock maybe because I set front and back to soft all the way. Great job keep working on the minor details or is it completely done? let us know how it feels on the track if you decide to go

 

Hey MM,

FQ500 sounds kinda neat mate, nice ring to it & it looks stock from the outside....stealth. This has evolved into a really awesome ride, you should be well proud my friend....I can tell you straight up I'm envious!

What else do you recommend? A rear strut tower if you haven't got one, I can't remember if you have one - An older article to browse - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles..._H4s_2001a.htm & http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...strutbrace.htm. The bushings will no doubt tighten things up again, I'd really ask some of the US suspension guru's that set Evo's up for a living. You can also look into corner weighting to get you one step closer to Handling Heaven - http://www.wincom.net/trog/autocross_secrets11.html.
Most of us giving opinions are only enthusiasts like yourself MM, with what you have achieved, you can now offer far better advice than most.

What I have gleened over the years is, there are a few trains of thought on suspension when it comes to coilovers & sway bars:
1. Some experts claim once you have good coilovers, the stiffer springs that accompany them render swaybar's redundant.

2. The swaybar specialist push this angle; swaybars are needed for body roll control ie lateral stiffness; stiff coilovers with say F12 & R10 (spring rates) for eg are for vertical control. Both are needed in a good suspension package. Here's an article to browse over - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...9_P-EVO_01.htm,

[B]If I get the hotchkis.... do you recommend a front as well? people are saying leave the front alone if you get a 25mm hotchkis. I'm going to get the hollow 25mm hotchkis instead and set her to soft. Something to digest re hollow vs solid http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bul...%20Swaybar.pdf. Also a diameter rating chart for you to look at, the possible increase/decrease when changing out swaybar's - http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/010barup.pdf.

Front sways are a hell job to put in & most will steer you away from that due to this & also it's rather timely therefore costly. This shouldn't deter you though my man. Personally MM, I went with F & R swaybar's as they were designed to be used as a package by Whiteline. Here's another article on adjustable rear swaybars - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...metric_adj.pdf. MM you may not need to get rid of your stiff Agency Power rear that is giving you more oversteer bias, you maybe able to tune it out with a matching front swaybar &/or soften your coilovers. Some overly stiff rear springs have been said to aid in oversteer, so maybe backing them off a tad may help you out. I would really get a hold of the manufacturer & ask them personally, how were these designed to be used ie as a pair, rear only, with AM coilovers etc.

You can then get a number of opinions from "Suspension Guru's" like http://www.muellerized.com/, http://robispec.com/main.html, http://www.racecompengineering.com/v...ory=Suspension, & try to get a hold of these fella's if they're still around -
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...onohunter.html, https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...2-djazair.html.

Another older write up on coilovers that maybe beneficial to help you with tuning - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles..._H4s_2000a.htm. By the way MM I'm not trying to push you down the Whiteline alleyit's just that they have some great articles.

I've spent far to much time woffling along......hope some of this can steeryou in the right direction.

Later my friend

Cheers Steve

 

[QUOTE=So your in the upper 300's? What ECU are you running? pump? and how do you like it?[/QUOTE]

Yep, I made about 380 WHP on Sean Ivey's Dyno on 93 at 24 PSI and 420 on C16 at about 28 PSI. That was the only time that I ever put c16 in the tank... I'm running the HKS V-Pro on the car and absolutely love it. I was going to go with the AEM but after spending so much money on the car I couldn't imagine cranking it to start it... just seems kinda broke to me lol. I've only taken the car to the track once since then b/c like you im not really big into drag racing. I was just trying to guage what kind of power the car was actually making off the dyno. Unfortunately I had a major boost leak on my intercooler piping and was only boosting to about 21 PSI down the track. I ran a 12 flat @ 114 spining off the line but feel that 11's is just around the corner for me. Not too bad for a pump gas car...

Anyways, its been about 1 year since the green and I was debating the red for a while but figured I would just go big if im gonna do anything at all. 1st thing is 1st though, I want to finish paying off the car before I dump anymore money into it. Looking at back I could have paid off for the car a long time ago with the amount of money I've already spent lol.

But yea, this year i've decided to build the motor so that next year I can run the twinscroll HTA 35r ... it never ends...

 

awesome stuff, thank's for sharing

 

sweeeeet. I know what you mean man. I bought mine new for 40k out the door. still owe 25. I spend over 30 ON the car. So believe me i know what you mean! haha. as for the turbo, just be careful what you get if you're into circuit racing. u want low end power... and nothing i know produces it like the red. the only thing i hate about the red is that it is not ball bearing. so i question how long it will last. well, i always still have my stock 9 turbo that i can send in for a backup red. ;-)
I'm going to look into the cranking fix for the aem. it's out there, just forgot where i saw it. the other issue im having right now is throttle modulation.. how is yours? do you get any weird throttle cut off mid boost build as you modulate the throttle?
hit me back whenever you can.


not a problem at all, it was an absolute pleasure writing this up, as well as workign on the car. :-)

 

In no way are you pushing me towards whiteline... and i say this because I've left bushings and the finer tuning of the chasis last. and let me tell you, whiteline is the only company i will touch for that :-) haha.

I see what you mean about getting a front sway to compliment the rear... i've thought of that, and here's my train of thought:

My struts are all set to soft. (these D2's are stiffer than I thought) my springs are tightened down extremely modestly. the only tuning out of the rear sway would be to stiffen the front springs to balance it. (not the dampening, cause this will act differently). only thing is, I don't want to do that because it alters the lateral and vertical charateristic.. (and i know exactly what you mean by all of this. It will still oversteer, and go in tripod mode.) I will DEFINITELY get this thing cornerweighted eventually.

Also, I really feel the hotchkis would do the trick. Why? because naturally the evo pushes... its very easy to drive (for me at least) and all it would need is a little more neutral balance on the 'off throttle' position response. meaning i'd want the tail to come out ever so slightly given the right steering angle. when stock, this rarely happens without the 'scandanavian flick' so a sway bar should do the trick. only i went way to big on it. The hotchkis apparently is a very mild upgrade from stock, which i think is perfect for my application. I COULD go full front and back, but with these coil overs being so stiff even on soft... i question the everyday ride if i'd get front and back sways. remember, i must have ripped over 200lbs from this car since stock. she's probably sitting at 3000lbs, which only means the rebound of the spring rate happens even quicker since there is less weight to move and hold up. I think a hotchkis in the back would be plenty, after that, i'd have to make up for some of that grip loss from removing weight, by adding more downforce. I'm looking at the add-on diffuser for the rear evo9 bumper... and a better lip/front splitter and/or a diffuser with mild canards... but I really really want it to look stock, and those two things will kind of give away the fact that I may have work done.

regardless... i'll definitely re-reply to you, I got some reading to do! (your links) I'm definitely going to look into all of that before i make a decision. But as for the bushings and what not, I'm DEFINITELY going whiteline, and going all out. full bushing kit, bump steer kit, and whatever else they have to offer.

I'm just so happy im at the last stage. its the most PIA stage IMO, but well worth the wait. haha.

once again, u are the man steeve... i'll talk to you later dude, i cant stop thanking you for all your support and help.

 

You are always welcome MMR, enjoy this last phase mate.

Cheers Steve

 

Hey guys... lookin for some feedback.

I think I found the sollution to my earth rattling sound that the evo produces....
I can get this...
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Downpipes/evodp.php
and then put the catalytic converter back on my car and the silencer back in the muffler.

That will pipe down the sound quite the bit. The cops will no longer feel me OR hear me coming really.

After that.... I can have another switch setup to change maps. Meaning when the downpipe is in silent mode... I can run a gas saving map by the flip of a switch. And when running in straight pipe mode, I can run the race map that produces ~500hp.

Lastly....
I'm looking into an intake manifold with a ported throttle body matchup. Looking to hit the 500whp mark. (I want to keep my stock internals alive, so 500 is the limit that i'm looking at LOL)

This is the intake manifold that I'm looking at, let me know what you guys think.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/int...ifolds/dsm.htm
its the V5 one at the top. Not the street or race one.

Talk to you guys later!

-MR