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I will check the resistance of all the harness wires and if thats the problem I will probably order one then just sell the hks all together.Originally Posted by robertrinaustin
Check with any vendor that carries HKS. They can order just the harness.
--Josh
Newbie
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I already had an aem c2di that i bought about a year ago and never used. So i bought the 300m coils and got a mounting plate. I got it all wired and it it fired right up. I have an aem ems and have the dwell settings set for all cdi systems.
The thing is nearly undrivable at low loads. Is mis-fires so bad that the car starts to buck. I have tried all the different settings for the dip switches on the cdi. Anytime the car is accelerating with vacuum it breaks up. It runs better than ever at full throttle, high boost, meth though!!
This is my daily driver so I cant really drive it like that. I read up about using a dsm ignitor in place of the aem unit and using the viper dwell settings. Well thats how I have it setup now and It still misses at low load and now misfires on high boost, meth. Its basically worse than stock coils because of the low load misfire. It acts the same as my stock coils on high boost.
You had it running good with the DLI. When you switched to a 300M+AEM you had low load misfires. When you took out the AEM and switched to the DSM ignitor, you had low load AND high load misfires.Originally Posted by SwiftEVO
Hey guys, im sooo frustrated. I have been running a hks dli2 and it finally took a dump on me. I had zero problems with this setup but figured instead of buying a new one I would just do my own COP setup. I already had an aem c2di that i bought about a year ago and never used. So i bought the 300m coils and got a mounting plate. I got it all wired and it it fired right up. I have an aem ems and have the dwell settings set for all cdi systems.
The thing is nearly undrivable at low loads. Is mis-fires so bad that the car starts to buck. I have tried all the different settings for the dip switches on the cdi. Anytime the car is accelerating with vacuum it breaks up. It runs better than ever at full throttle, high boost, meth though!!
This is my daily driver so I cant really drive it like that. I read up about using a dsm ignitor in place of the aem unit and using the viper dwell settings. Well thats how I have it setup now and It still misses at low load and now misfires on high boost, meth. Its basically worse than stock coils because of the low load misfire. It acts the same as my stock coils on high boost.
The DSM ignitor SHOULD have improved the low load issue, if it were strictly due to the spark duration. That it didn't tells me that it probably isn't a spark duration problem. That your AEM was running good under boost tells me it probably isn't a voltage issue(with a CDI anyhow).
I'd say you either have a bad 300M coil, or you miswired them(or the DSM ignitor was miswired). Did you change fuel or ignition maps after replacing the DLI? If so, that could be an issue too.
Do you have any other coils to try out?
No I haven't changed anything on my maps at all. I don't have any other coils to try. Is there a way of checking the coil by checking the resistance?
I have went over the wiring so many time making sure it was all correct. I have even tried switching trigger wires and coil wires to no avail. When I switch the trigger wires the car wouldn't even start.
I have went over the wiring so many time making sure it was all correct. I have even tried switching trigger wires and coil wires to no avail. When I switch the trigger wires the car wouldn't even start.
Newbie
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I have went over the wiring so many time making sure it was all correct. I have even tried switching trigger wires and coil wires to no avail. When I switch the trigger wires the car wouldn't even start.
Originally Posted by SwiftEVO
No I haven't changed anything on my maps at all. I don't have any other coils to try. Is there a way of checking the coil by checking the resistance?I have went over the wiring so many time making sure it was all correct. I have even tried switching trigger wires and coil wires to no avail. When I switch the trigger wires the car wouldn't even start.
On the wiring of the 300M coils, you did make 100% sure they are wired in series, not parallel, right? I saw one or two wired that way before, otherwise I wouldn't ask. Did you double check that the plug caps are on tight, and examine the plugs themselves? Are the wires to the coils all bundled together? If so, did you try moving the 2 cylinder pairs a little bit apart from each other?
You can test the coils partially with a multimeter, but not completely. It is almost easier to just swap them out. But since you don't have any others, did you go back to the stock coils, and make sure everything is working fine at light load with the stock setup? I imagine it won't be good at full boost, but at least it'll tell you if there might be some other problem you might be experiencing.
I used this diagram

I wrapped all the wires in loom so Yes they are bundled together.
I haven't tried going back to stock because I cut all the connectors off and just didn't want to wire it back up. I may just to make sure something else didn't get out of whack.

I wrapped all the wires in loom so Yes they are bundled together.
I haven't tried going back to stock because I cut all the connectors off and just didn't want to wire it back up. I may just to make sure something else didn't get out of whack.
Newbie
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--Josh
My comments below assume your CDI ignition is wired and working correctly.Originally Posted by SwiftEVO
Im running Precision 1000's.--Josh
As I understand it these (Precision) are a ball and seat injector with a wide spray pattern
On an EVO these injectors tend to wet down the manifold and give poor atomisation at idle and light load. You are much better off with a twin spray injector designed for 4 valve engines such as the SARD injectors.
Inductive ignition will tend to mask this problem but really it's an injector problem not an ignition problem.
Also when running big injectors (eg. 1000cc) on a 2.0 engine the idle and part load milliseconds are quite small which means you dump the fuel required in a very short time (the spray will be for approx half the time of the stock 560cc injectors), even more reason to have the correct spray pattern injector.
I am not sure if you work on your own car but perhaps if you have a stock set of injectors you could install them to prove the point, while obviously you may not have enough fuel for a full power run you could run lower boost just for the test and see if it fixed up the idle and part load areas that were giving your trouble.
Well if its the injectors that'll suck. I dont have any stock one but have friends that might. Ill see what I can come up with.
Thanks!
--Josh
Thanks!
--Josh
Account Disabled
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As I understand it these (Precision) are a ball and seat injector with a wide spray pattern
On an EVO these injectors tend to wet down the manifold and give poor atomisation at idle and light load. You are much better off with a twin spray injector designed for 4 valve engines such as the SARD injectors.
Inductive ignition will tend to mask this problem but really it's an injector problem not an ignition problem.
Also when running big injectors (eg. 1000cc) on a 2.0 engine the idle and part load milliseconds are quite small which means you dump the fuel required in a very short time (the spray will be for approx half the time of the stock 560cc injectors), even more reason to have the correct spray pattern injector.
I am not sure if you work on your own car but perhaps if you have a stock set of injectors you could install them to prove the point, while obviously you may not have enough fuel for a full power run you could run lower boost just for the test and see if it fixed up the idle and part load areas that were giving your trouble.
i used to run precision 1000cc injectors before i switched to rc 12000s with my aem cdi setup and cbr coilpacks and never had any problems like what he is having.i really dont think its the injectors.i think it may be the wiring or the cdi box itself since they are known to crap out.i would either get someone with expirience to rewire you set up or switch to the ebay/m&w ignition.the m&w box by itself will cost you like $700,for a couple more you could get the complete ebay ignition and rid all your demons.......Originally Posted by gtpumps
My comments below assume your CDI ignition is wired and working correctly.As I understand it these (Precision) are a ball and seat injector with a wide spray pattern
On an EVO these injectors tend to wet down the manifold and give poor atomisation at idle and light load. You are much better off with a twin spray injector designed for 4 valve engines such as the SARD injectors.
Inductive ignition will tend to mask this problem but really it's an injector problem not an ignition problem.
Also when running big injectors (eg. 1000cc) on a 2.0 engine the idle and part load milliseconds are quite small which means you dump the fuel required in a very short time (the spray will be for approx half the time of the stock 560cc injectors), even more reason to have the correct spray pattern injector.
I am not sure if you work on your own car but perhaps if you have a stock set of injectors you could install them to prove the point, while obviously you may not have enough fuel for a full power run you could run lower boost just for the test and see if it fixed up the idle and part load areas that were giving your trouble.
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Well thats good to hear you had the same injectors with no problems. So that tells me probably a bad coil or the c2di. I know the wiring is perfect. Originally Posted by nos51
i used to run precision 1000cc injectors before i switched to rc 12000s with my aem cdi setup and cbr coilpacks and never had any problems like what he is having.i really dont think its the injectors.i think it may be the wiring or the cdi box itself since they are known to crap out.i would either get someone with expirience to rewire you set up or switch to the ebay/m&w ignition.the m&w box by itself will cost you like $700,for a couple more you could get the complete ebay ignition and rid all your demons.......
I might just buy the whole setup and be done with this. Good point about the ebay ignition.
--Josh
Newbie
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I might just buy the whole setup and be done with this. Good point about the ebay ignition.
--Josh
2 sets of injectors that are both from the same company could have different flow patterns, rates, etc. But more importantly, I'd bet he doesn't have the exact same fuel or ignition maps as you. Both running stock ECUs, or aftermarket? How did you tune for the larger injectors?Originally Posted by SwiftEVO
Well thats good to hear you had the same injectors with no problems. So that tells me probably a bad coil or the c2di. I know the wiring is perfect. I might just buy the whole setup and be done with this. Good point about the ebay ignition.
--Josh
I haven't been keeping track of AEM CDIs, but when they went bad, didn't they go up in a poof of smoke, for the most part? One that was running good at high boost doesn't sound like it is necessarily bad.