Stock turbo - how much boost???
Even better, ECU-based boost control: just switch the pump gas map to race map. (unless u have meth, then u can stay on the pump/meth map)
It all depends on your tune. You can run higher boost with less timing or lower boost with more timing it all depends. It is good to get somewhere in between. I am tuned at 23psi right now.
OTE=fas-n-furyus;5162118]do i need to change the head stud bolts to ARP?
dont want them to stretch and blow the head off....lol
will the rod and the rod bolts hold also?[/QUOTE]
yes if u r going to boost ur car more then 26-27psi, right now i'm tune for 24psi so is ok but i'm going with meth soon so i need to get head studs too.
I know what you mean, but it is the 21st Century.
Today it is all about Electronics
.That is why FWD cars are going 7's at over 180 mph and RWD Imports going sub 6.5 1/4 mile times at over 220 mph.
This was not possible, even in the 90's.
Not much goes wrong with Electronics. The majority of the problem is that consumer X buys it, and never understands how they work. They either never learn how to use them, or don't try, and give up.
Manual Boost controllers are good. They do the work, and they are much less money. But, to trash an AVC-R for one, is, well, you know what I mean,
. i like it betterI rather have this than that AVC-R. Can't get more easier/simpler with a flick of a switch between high and low boost.
Even better, ECU-based boost control: just switch the pump gas map to race map. (unless u have meth, then u can stay on the pump/meth map)
Even better, ECU-based boost control: just switch the pump gas map to race map. (unless u have meth, then u can stay on the pump/meth map)
On pump gas or race gas 30psi is a waste, after 28 psi its pointless.
Now lets go a step further and ask how meth helps a car perform. It cools the air down making say... 34psi of hot air into 34psi of cool usable air.
The results of a moderate afr and moderate timing...
Pretty impressive for stock cams, stock turbo, stock o2 housing and stock header. No tricks or lies.
For a comparison, the same car on c16 with a much more aggressive tune wouldnt make over 410whp. On a larger turbo this obviously wouldnt be the case, im testing it with a 3065 on my car to see what power i can make on pump and what i can do on meth.
Cheers!
Be careful when pushing the stock turbo to high pressures, the exhaust pressure will likely be much higher in the cast pushing the exhaust back in to the chamber during valve overlap. This can blow up well tuned engine where EGT's are much higher than CHT's then suddenly CHT's reach temps equivalent to timing over advance
i hear you....i like my mbc
I know what you mean, but it is the 21st Century.
Today it is all about Electronics.
That is why FWD cars are going 7's at over 180 mph and RWD Imports going sub 6.5 1/4 mile times at over 220 mph.
This was not possible, even in the 90's.
Not much goes wrong with Electronics. The majority of the problem is that consumer X buys it, and never understands how they work. They either never learn how to use them, or don't try, and give up.
Manual Boost controllers are good. They do the work, and they are much less money. But, to trash an AVC-R for one, is, well, you know what I mean, .
I know what you mean, but it is the 21st Century.
Today it is all about Electronics
.That is why FWD cars are going 7's at over 180 mph and RWD Imports going sub 6.5 1/4 mile times at over 220 mph.
This was not possible, even in the 90's.
Not much goes wrong with Electronics. The majority of the problem is that consumer X buys it, and never understands how they work. They either never learn how to use them, or don't try, and give up.
Manual Boost controllers are good. They do the work, and they are much less money. But, to trash an AVC-R for one, is, well, you know what I mean,
.
Back in October 2005 before many had their Evo's we did 405/445.1tq on a Mustang Dyno's lower reading numbers without mivec on a 2005 MR. With headstuds and a good tuner, you can be safe.
I rather have this than that AVC-R. Can't get more easier/simpler with a flick of a switch between high and low boost.
http://evo.dejonpowerhouse.com/
Click on BOOST CONTROLLERS and then scroll down to DUAL MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLERS and then look at their MED-HI DUAL CONTROLLER.
Back then, it was not a Lower reading Mustang Dyno.
As you can see, a few Months earlier, I had used the Dyno. Made HP too, with smaller Cams, and as you can tell, less Boost, on the little 9.8 VIII Turbo.
The point is, don't say the Dyno was Low Reading. It was program like a Dynojet,
. No way we made that much Power like a Mustang Dyno with the Mods we both had back then. Still, not bad as we both have allways been on the cutting edge.Good Old Days. Back in early 2005, ha!
Last edited by 04AWDTURBOEVO; Jan 18, 2008 at 06:34 PM.
.Thank you.
PS. I boosted my 9.8 VIII Turbo to 31 psi for a long while. I got it here in a box at home after I put it away when I intalled the 20G-LT.
The Shaft is Solid as a Rock. No play or movement.
The Stock 16G Turbo is a great product.
Feel fine boosting it up to 31 psi and it will still be reliable and make power.
TTP's curves are the oddest curves I have ever ever seen on a mustang chart. Why does the torque hit hard, then kinda curve up to a point then drop?
Had over 100 evos on a mustang and I have never seen curves like that.
Not challenging you TTP at all just find the curves really really odd. It's almost like it wasn't 100% WOT until 3500-3600 then you went WOT. The sharp point I can't really explain however.
Had over 100 evos on a mustang and I have never seen curves like that.
Not challenging you TTP at all just find the curves really really odd. It's almost like it wasn't 100% WOT until 3500-3600 then you went WOT. The sharp point I can't really explain however.