Turn it like 5 turns at a time until you get about 16-17 psi and then take it at half a turn at a time! If you go 1/2 at a time the whole way, you will still be turning tomorrow!

 

Crank it up.

























Do not listen to me I AM DRUNK.

 

just playing safe, don't want to turn it up too high and when you floor it it over boost. what he can do is turn it little by little, just my .02 its a 30k car, why not take your time and play it safe.

 

Does anyone know if there is a difference in using the vaccum fitting on the compressor housing instead of T-ing off the BOV line for the source? Thats how I installed my controller and Every boost controller I have installed.

 

some people say the other way spikes more i think. not too sure about it.

 

No offense but suggesting 5 full turns right off the bat just seems a bit risky to me. At any rate, fudging with imprecise words such as, "like', and, "about", is not going to help the guy dial in his boost accurately.

 

@EgoBstr

Thanks for the thread man, I've been going mad thinking I have a boost leak that I couldn't find. Turns out that I, like you, were following the Hallman directions and I was also terrified of cranking it due to the guys on the board saying that my baby would explode. Now off to go crank the boost back up to normal.

 

In case anyone else comes across this thread:

DO NOT do 5 turns before testing.

To explain, I am still in a phase of treating my evo like she is made of glass and the slightest issue will destroy her completely. I wasn't brave enough to do five full turns. I was, in fact, surprised that I could summon the courage to give it two full turns and do a test run. The two full turns put me at 16 psi. Three half-turns later I was at 19.

A total of three and a half turns put me to stock pressure. Just a kind warning to anyone who comes along into the boat that I was in.

 

First, disconnect the factory boost/vacuum line assembly as a unit and set it aside. Don't reuse any of the sections of the factory hose assembly for connecting your MBC. Purchase a yard of 4mm rubber hose.

Cap off all of the unused/open ports to which the factory hose assembly was attached. Specifically, these are: the port on the Maf/intake hose, and the turbocharger's compressor housing discharge tube port. You'll be using the port on the WGA, as well as the one on the diverter valve so don't cap these two off.

You don't really need to cap off the ports on the boost solenoid. Oh yeah, leave the BCS plugged in. Don't disconect its wiring harness connector.

There are a bunch of ways to cap off the unused ports. There are some little 3/16" vacuum nipples available in the auto parts stores. Or you can use a short section of vacuum hose with a tight fitting machine screw or a golf tee in one end. Whatever you decide to use, secure it tightly with zip ties. Secure all your new hose end fittings onto all ports securely with zipties.

Find a suitable place to mount your new MBC. Now run a section of hose from the side port on your MBC to the port on your WGA. Cut the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the diverter valve and install a "T" fitting into the line. Now run a hose from that "T" to the bottom port on your MBC.The bottom port is the port diametrically opposed(axially inline) to the MBC adjustment knob.

You should now be ready to rumble! You may need to shorten the length of the adjustable actuator rod so that you have more preload on the WG.

EDIT: Someone posted the FPR hose as an alternate reference source for your MBC. This would be wrong. I just realized that this is a way old thread. Sorry for posting on it again.