I am wondering what is best way to remove the stock exhaust manifold studs? I ordered new ones since the stock ones are pretty messed up but when I tried to remove them tonight using 2 nuts locked together to spin them out, they wont budge! So what is the best way to get these out and the new ones back in? Thanks

 

PB blaster

 

I sprayed the **** out of them with PB thats why im confused, Do they take alot of tq to get them out? The last thing I want to do is break one!

 

Tighten the 2 nuts together, with the flat sides facing each other, and use a ratchet. I have changed many like this. Some will be stubborn. If they are giving you a hard time once they intailly break loose just pb them and keep working in and out.

This is the only easy way to get them out.

 

Revival. So I was doing the same the other day but as the stud started to come out I noticed there was also some, what looked to be, aluminum shard coming out with the stud. I stopped right there and sprayed some PB on it. When I first got it to move it was just dry and quite stubborn. Now when I get back home the PB will have had a week to penetrate so I know I'll be good there but is at all normal for some metal shavings to come out with these studs? I don't see how that could ever be good.

 

It prob means they werent bottomed out correctly and it sheared off some aluminum when they were torqued down. The studs need to be fully seated so they do NOT spin when installing them because aluminum will pull the threads if there is a twisting force on the bolt while tightening. If the stud doesnt turn it will be able to handle a lot more torque without stripping. If they are stripped just do helicoil inserts and they will handle the twist much better.

 

Heat the area around the stud with a torch, the aluminum will expand. They will come right out (using the double nut method of course).

 

go to napa and buy stud remover tool. i paid $29 buck for metic set

 

Should the new stainless studs go in the head dry or with some anti-seize or something? Also do these studs go by a different name in the torque spec sticky? I couldn't find them in there. In other words, what's the torque on the studs?

 

I heard thats the worse thing you could ever do.

 

Care to explain?

Don't take a cutting torch to the head by any means, but heat and lubrication are some of the keys to life.

Fathouse

 

If you can find it Kroil is way better than PB blaster at loosening stuck rusty parts. They carry it at Napa in my town.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

I was always taught never to heat aluminum. It warps to easy. I understand that. I used heat on rusty bolts all the time, but never on aluminum. Maybe I'm wrong, but thats what I was always taught. I'm too scared to try it.

 

Any thoughts on post #9 guys?

 

I would say to just make sure they are fully seated in the head. I would not worry about antiseize. I have had some bad luck with ss bolts, but I used them to connect the exhaust mani to the turbo.