yes i did, and if the car was still moving while your foot was still on the clutch, then this is the only solution i could think of, since it happens to me when i got my first clutch in, and someone suggested to do what i just ask you to do.......

if that dont help then, someone here should know.... and you dont need to be rude about it!

 

i believe post number 3 covered it. That was the 1st thing i tried. Thanks for your input.

 

I don't see how a crush washer could be at fault here, if it was sucking air it sure as hell would be leaking fluid. I've found those speed bleeders only cause problems unless they're brand new. Try it the old fashion way again take your time and go slow. Manual mentions "air leak at the cylinder"

 

I've been using the stock bleeder and now a new stock bleeder(comes with New slave cylinder) I dont' mind being wrong in these situations. I have been bleeding the proper way( i think ) no air bubbles...pedal feels decent. We'll see once I get the word from mitsu.

 

I to have been frustrated by the clutch system. Keep us posted on what happens we can all learn from the outcome.

 

I dont know much about the twin disks, so bare with me a little bit.

Could it be bent fingers on the pressure plate? Maybe something wrong with the clutch fork.

I would take the plug out of the bell housing and have someone push the clutch in a couple times while looking in there with a flashlight.

 

It's at mitsu

 

Good Luck with the fix, and keep us posted!

 

Who install your clutch? Did they put back the plate that goes between the transmission and the motor. Double check it by looking at the starter side bell housing, if there you can see the flywheel. Redo the transmission and put the plate back in.

 

you may want to pull the flywheel cover off (the cover beside the starter), and make sure all the nuts that hold the flywheel to the pressure plate stays are tight. then i would take the sight hole plug out and make sure all the allen head bolts holding the pressure plate to the stays are tight as well. if one of them backs out a bit you'll no longer be able to disengage the clutch all the way (or else the clutch will slip even under light load, depends which bolt is backing out). make sure to use red locktite on all the bolts and torque to spec.

 

I agree with you Evoryder. Same thing with mine, bled the thing 5 bazillionmillion times all the correct way, pedal always feels firm, no leaks. It certainly seems like a warped pp or something in the discs dragging. In fact, with the clutch disengaged I don't get the plate rattle like I did with the old Exedy.

To be honest I've been way to busy and can't have the car down long enough to pull it off and check but I am very curious to see what you find.


Kevin, good point. I always wanted to check the pp torque but once again no time....see above :P

 

I installed the clutch myself with power tools about 1.5 years ago...clocked about 30k on the clutch already. I DID NOT use loctite and to this day that has been in the back of my mind. I actually did the hole process twice in 1.5 days. First time around I forgot the spring clip and had to redo it. I hand torqued the allen wrenches and like I said, have felt subconcious about the bolts. I would bet you dinner that one of those suckers have got loose.

Here's the update from the Stealership.

Options:
A) Have the pull out tranny and inspect. $1200 labor for dropping tranny and looking. + $103 for diagnostic. + addtional labor for fixing the tranny. Easy $2,000 bill.

B) If it's covered under warranty...yeah they'll cover it for free, if not. See above lol
Total: $0.00
C) I take it to a local shop have them pull the tranny(approx $350-450) inspect bolts and torque. Might throw in a rebuild kit for the exedy seeing that the clutch is out $400-500 more. Install spare non-whining transfercase while tranny is off.
Total approx: $1,000
D) combine option C + send tranny to Shep for a stage 1.
Total: $2,000

I can do all options...I'm leaning towards option C).

What you guys think?

 

option A) once they see an exedy clutch in there you wont have any warranty. guaranteed.

option B) see above

option C) my understanding is exedy rebuilt kits are on forever backorder.

option D) shep stage 1 TC rebuild is only 350 dollars + shipping total usually comes out to around 500 tops. make sure he does the bigger bolts on the housing though. thats supposed to protect the ring and pinion.



if you are concerned about the torque on the pressure plate bolts, you don't need to pull the tranny to check. you can stick an allen in the sight hole and tighten them that way. it is very slow and tedious, but far quicker and cheaper then pulling the tranny. also, you can just look in there and feel around with your finger to see if the bolts are all tight.

 

I said Tranny rebuild not TC. I have an extra transfercase in a box. I'll definitely look into your recommendation. For option A) they know I got a twin disc clutch...but they are trying to get the work. I am not brand new. Option A) was never a possibility unless i am or something

 

Once the inspection cover is off i can rotate the system from there to check each pressure plate bolt?