Just a quick question for those of you who have this cat back and wide band. I am running a cat delete pipe on my TBE, so I am thinking of putting my WBO2 in the bung on my cat back. From what I have read on Innovate's website there should not be a problem with putting the WBO2 on the cat back bung as long as I DO NOT run a cat. Just wondering how many of you have done this, and did the wires reach from that position? Any info or pics would be great as I plan to do this tomorrow!
Evolved Member
All I know is that my friend is running that same combo. The wires will reach okay, just use the second grommet under the car that comes out under the passenger seat. Next to the one that the current O2 sensor comes out of. If anything, the gauge may read a slightly more lean, but I doubt it.
I've tested a bunch of cars with no cats on the dyno with widebands installed.
Of the ones that have wideband gauges with the sensor installed in the downpipe, right at the end (the usual place), and the usual dyno wideband clamped onto the tailpipe, the sensor at the downpipe is almost *spot on* with the sensor at the tailpipe, the widest spread I have seen is +/- .2 AFR
The only part they are really off is at spool up where the tailpipe lags behind the downpipe sensor, which makes sense as the wideband in the downpipe will see exhaust gases before the one in the tailpipe.
Of the ones that have wideband gauges with the sensor installed in the downpipe, right at the end (the usual place), and the usual dyno wideband clamped onto the tailpipe, the sensor at the downpipe is almost *spot on* with the sensor at the tailpipe, the widest spread I have seen is +/- .2 AFR
The only part they are really off is at spool up where the tailpipe lags behind the downpipe sensor, which makes sense as the wideband in the downpipe will see exhaust gases before the one in the tailpipe.
Thank you for the reply. I read the same thing about the install location. Now I just need to dig up a JDM EVOIX RS ROM.
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Of the ones that have wideband gauges with the sensor installed in the downpipe, right at the end (the usual place), and the usual dyno wideband clamped onto the tailpipe, the sensor at the downpipe is almost *spot on* with the sensor at the tailpipe, the widest spread I have seen is +/- .2 AFR
The only part they are really off is at spool up where the tailpipe lags behind the downpipe sensor, which makes sense as the wideband in the downpipe will see exhaust gases before the one in the tailpipe.
Razor on the topic of WBO2's have you ever seen the need for a heat sink on the bung when it is placed that far back?Originally Posted by razorlab
I've tested a bunch of cars with no cats on the dyno with widebands installed.Of the ones that have wideband gauges with the sensor installed in the downpipe, right at the end (the usual place), and the usual dyno wideband clamped onto the tailpipe, the sensor at the downpipe is almost *spot on* with the sensor at the tailpipe, the widest spread I have seen is +/- .2 AFR
The only part they are really off is at spool up where the tailpipe lags behind the downpipe sensor, which makes sense as the wideband in the downpipe will see exhaust gases before the one in the tailpipe.
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For flashing my ecu.Originally Posted by razorlab
What do you need a JDM EVOIX RS rom for?
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From what I have read, it helps to prolong the life of the O2 sensor. I have seen everything from a sheet of copper with a hole drilled in it, to something that Innovate offers which looks sort of like an antifouler.Originally Posted by razorlab
Why would you need a heat sink on the bung?
The wideband sensor is heated, I see no reason for a heat sink.
A good sensor lasts a good amount of time. I've seen 20k+ or so out of some on daily driven cars.
I would recommend against anything that moves the sensor further out of the exhaust stream (like an antifouler) as your readings will suffer.
A good sensor lasts a good amount of time. I've seen 20k+ or so out of some on daily driven cars.
I would recommend against anything that moves the sensor further out of the exhaust stream (like an antifouler) as your readings will suffer.
just a note for any one that reads this thread, i crawled under my car today to start the install, and i find out that i am going to have to drill a hole in my downpipe and weld a bung to it. i thought i was going to be able to put the WBO2 in my cat back and that bung is horizontal. from what i have read this will decrease the life of your WBO2 due to condensation build up. to my understanding the best place is anywhere from 10 to 3 o clock, so this is where i will put it right before the cat. well enough of this i will try to post some pictures of the install soon!
Evolved Member
Now why would the bung in your catback be like that? Is the bung on the test pipe, and if so, can you rotate the test pipe around? Innovate wants the sensor between 10 and 2, I would say put it between 11 and 1 but preferably the 12 o'clock position is best. There are about a million error codes that that LC-1 can produce, I would save yourself the time and install a copper heat shield anyway. Its just a square of copper bent in 2 places with a hole in the center divider, surely innovative gave you dirrections on how to make one. If not, you can find it on their site under support, in one of the manuals. I have installed widebands before, and by far the innovate is the tweakiest of the bunch, it needs an almost perfect ground, and still it likes to act crazy. Just check out their forums for all of the BS errors and stupid design flaws that thing has. It is however accurate as they come though, but wait till you find out how much of a pain the random need to free-air cal the thing becomes.
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so after i had the bung welded on today my lc-1 does not seem to read right. so i sit down and read Jameson_IXMR's post on the topic and i am having the same symptoms. wow I am pissed. well tomorrow i will try new grounds and if it works i will post pics.Originally Posted by Jameson_IXMR
Now why would the bung in your catback be like that? Is the bung on the test pipe, and if so, can you rotate the test pipe around? Innovate wants the sensor between 10 and 2, I would say put it between 11 and 1 but preferably the 12 o'clock position is best. There are about a million error codes that that LC-1 can produce, I would save yourself the time and install a copper heat shield anyway. Its just a square of copper bent in 2 places with a hole in the center divider, surely innovative gave you dirrections on how to make one. If not, you can find it on their site under support, in one of the manuals. I have installed widebands before, and by far the innovate is the tweakiest of the bunch, it needs an almost perfect ground, and still it likes to act crazy. Just check out their forums for all of the BS errors and stupid design flaws that thing has. It is however accurate as they come though, but wait till you find out how much of a pain the random need to free-air cal the thing becomes.