Drop in pistons, to do or not to do “that’s the question”??
Yeah I did. I thought you meant to use new factory rings with out rehoning the block.
To me it wouldnt make any sense reuse old rings on a new piston especially since the rings have to be expanded to get them off the old pistons.
To me it wouldnt make any sense reuse old rings on a new piston especially since the rings have to be expanded to get them off the old pistons.
I don't know of any dial bore gauge that is "badass" for $100..but if it does the job!
Seriously, I am not familiar with the Summit gauge, but the Sunnen gauge is almost the industry standard, and with the setting fixture(not the mic method) it comes in around 2500..I think the gauge itself is $1200 or something stupid like that, for the one that measures in tenths. There is also one that measures in half thousandths that is probably less expensive. I imagine it's kinda like the difference in buying the walmart cheap tools VS Snap-On..they could both have a 13mm wrench, but the subtle differences make it worth owning the Snap-On and paying dearly for it, if it's what you do for a living.
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Wow that was a good read. I'm still on the fence right now between Buschur Drop ins or Buschur Stage 3 block. I just have to sit down and speak with Jimmy @ The Shop but so far this has been a very good read.
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Let me know when you drop in setup is completed I would like to get your personal opinion on it once you have the car all bolted up and tuned. I opted out because I need to upgrade my brakes and my tires but I think I will get this done maybe in the fall
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DB seems to agree and I see cars with his piston/rod combo perform very well...
Personally I stand by my selection to go with a drop-in simply because my personal experience and proof that I have seen with my own eyes is enough...
We've made close to 600 whp on the drop in pistons/rods. You have to consider the fact that most guys doing pistons/rods are doing it to keep from doing the entire engine build because of finances. These same guys are not after 600+ whp but trying to keep their 400-500 whp builds from breaking a rod and then really being out a lot of money.
You can come to us and have drop in pistons/rods done for about $2600 parts and labor. The pistons/rods themselves are good for huge power, say 1,000+.
If you do a Stage 3 shortblock we use the same pistons/rods and the cost to do the shortblock is about $6100. That is parts/labor etc.
That is a lot of difference to a guy on a budget.
If that guy on a budget didn't do rods and pistons and his rod let's go he is going to be out the $6100 plus a block and more than likely a crank too, total price $8650.
We have done a lot of drop in pistons/rods and I can not honestly think of a single engine that had a problem, not one. We have pushed the tolerances on the pistons on a few builds by the customers choice knowing the pistons would slap when the engine was cold but even those have run strong and not broken.
My brothers daily driver is driven at 30+ psi of boost on a stock EVO8 turbo every single day of the week 365 days a year. The engine sounds like a diesel when it starts because the piston to wall clearance is lose, uses no excessive oil, made the most power on a stock turbo we have seen (375 whp on our dyno) and has run 11.5's. He has driven it for over 2 years in that state of tune and build.
I would, of course, rather do an entire build but there is absolutely nothing wrong with doing pistons/rods.
You can come to us and have drop in pistons/rods done for about $2600 parts and labor. The pistons/rods themselves are good for huge power, say 1,000+.
If you do a Stage 3 shortblock we use the same pistons/rods and the cost to do the shortblock is about $6100. That is parts/labor etc.
That is a lot of difference to a guy on a budget.
If that guy on a budget didn't do rods and pistons and his rod let's go he is going to be out the $6100 plus a block and more than likely a crank too, total price $8650.
We have done a lot of drop in pistons/rods and I can not honestly think of a single engine that had a problem, not one. We have pushed the tolerances on the pistons on a few builds by the customers choice knowing the pistons would slap when the engine was cold but even those have run strong and not broken.
My brothers daily driver is driven at 30+ psi of boost on a stock EVO8 turbo every single day of the week 365 days a year. The engine sounds like a diesel when it starts because the piston to wall clearance is lose, uses no excessive oil, made the most power on a stock turbo we have seen (375 whp on our dyno) and has run 11.5's. He has driven it for over 2 years in that state of tune and build.
I would, of course, rather do an entire build but there is absolutely nothing wrong with doing pistons/rods.
David-
Thank you for supplying the pistons/rods to Mike @ AWD. Just got them over nighted UPS.
Also, thank you for re-assuring me that I was taking the right path both monetarily and safety-wise.

See you at the Shoot-Out!!
-E
Thank you for supplying the pistons/rods to Mike @ AWD. Just got them over nighted UPS.
Also, thank you for re-assuring me that I was taking the right path both monetarily and safety-wise.
See you at the Shoot-Out!!
-E
I too fall into that 600whp club with drop in pistons and rods...If done correctly and carefully there shouldn't be a problem. My motor has 10K original miles on it and is in brand new shape....I have a thread posted up so everyone can see that this is a viable solution for people on a budget. I'm using Manley H-beams and Wiseco pistons..just some FYI
anyone make higher compression drop in pistons? Like 9.5:1? My motor only has about 8k on it so I'm considering some pistons/rods but would like to do a strickly e85 build and add some compression.



