The one and only!! Im not sure if that's a good thing or bad thing that you know me as I don't have any recolection of quoting a unit for you. But I,'ve drank a lot since then.

 

Orlando is the capital of PRI. We have met you a few times there.

We bought from Mike Rhodes.

 

Ah OK. Mike is a buddy of mine. I helped him get the job a couple months ago after I left the company.

 

How do you account for tire growth. On the MD this sure is the easiest way to get an RPM. The original RPM pickup we used on the MD at the last shop flat out sucked. The optical one sucked too. It was way more simple to do roller speeds but then you have the RPM drift due to the tire growth. MD ended up selling us another $4000.00 new design tach pickup which also sucked and was a PITA to use.

The DJ is much more simple to use and the pickup works on all but some of the highest HP cars which tend to get tach signal dropout. For the other 99% of the time, there is no fuss.

The sweep feature on the MD sucks. If you have an event during the run and need to let out prior to finishing the sweep your screwed. Then you have to get the rollers stopped. LOL

The start / stop sample button and the brake button on the DJ is way way way way more simple to use and works every time.

 

Let me rephrase my question. Are your timing maps and fueling maps different for different gears????



Quickest fastest stock suspended KA powered 240sx in the world. Not bad for 3rd gear tuning on our DynoJet.




That does not answer my question. Are you saying you tune part throttle for HP and TQ?

 

How much does the boost change when the car you just tuned on the dyno has four large people in it on the street?

 

That is a good point but I have never seen my logs and the dyno differ much so I haven't found that to be an issue yet.

I don't really agree. I don't have an issue with it. We use an wireless pointer so no keyboard needed and the screen is 1 ft away from me when I am on the dyno. I stop pulls before they are over all the time but just hitting "stop".

Again I just hit start or stop with our mouse pointer. Just as simple. One click to stop or start and it can be in my hand the whole time.

 

I don't know what was wrong with the MD dyno you used 9sec240 but it is certainly not typical.

The Mustang Dyno is absolutely, without a doubt a better machine than the Dynojet. I had a 2wd Dynojet, absolute complete waste of time tuning on it. I have used AWD Dynojets, while they aren't quite as big a waste of time they certainly do not get the car close enough to call it tuned. Guessing from experience what the car is going to need when it hits the streets isn't tuning, it's guessing.

My old employee, Tym, bought an AWD Dynojet. He comes to our shop to use our Mustang Dyno to tune $100k+ Porsche's as they cannot be tuned on his Dynojet. He has mentioned numerous times he wants to get rid of his Dynojet and replace it with a Mustang Dyno.

MD makes an RPM pickup called a TS1, it works perfectly. The Dynojet's RPM pickup SUCKS SUCKS SUCKS, I'll go as far to say it is a flat out POS. Most of the dyno sheets posted on EVOm are in MPH because that POS pick up doesn't work well enough to post a chart with it.

The roll speed on the MD works extremely well if it is used how it is designed. Forget about tire growth as most radials don't have enough growth to make it a concern. The dyno can only accurately calculate RPM from roll speed if it is dyno'd in a 1:1 gear ratio. Today for example VWJeff's car being run to 9,000 rpm on the dyno using roll speed had to actually be run to 9120 rpm to hit the 9,000 rpm limit on the MD. Pretty damn close at 9,000 rpm considering 4th is not 1:1.

The start/stop on the Dynojet, hated it. The Mustang dyno automatically starts the run and stops the run, just put in starting mph or rpm and ending. It leaves your hands free to use the laptop, hold the steering wheel and do you job as a tuner. IF you need to stop the rollers for some reason you simply use the wireless mouse that comes with the dyno to click stop on the screen.

I've used both, I've owned both. I can honestly say, the Mustang Dyno is the bomb.

We spent YEARS wasting our time on the Dynojets and then going to the track to have the car misfire, AFR's being out of whack and then re-tuning at the track. That's why I sold mine and didn't replace it with an AWD unit.

I have just short of 4,000 miles on our dyno now, I've had one sensor go bad from getting covered in water/snow.

 

I found this on you tube... New Shelby on a MD running the 1/4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQVtxP-i4hs

 

Its difficult to tune a high hp car on the street. From a professional stand point its also more time consuming and dangerous.

When we went to EFI University the dyno demonstration was on a Dyno Dynamics machine. Unfortunatly the vehicle was not turbocharged. It was easy to see why a load bearing dyno is the ultimate tuning device. Combine a load bearing dyno with a ECU capable of realtime changes and you've got a winning combination.

Can you tune part throttle on a MD? The DD machine had steady state power output no matter if it was idling or WOT. Is the Mustang the same?

 

So explain to me the difference load makes on tuning a car.

A car experiences more load the higher gear your in. If your tuning in 4th, how are you sure the tune is good for 5th gear or 6th gear? How do you know if your tuning a car for a single 125 lb driver or 4 250lb people in the car??????????

Having exactly the same load experienced on the a flat road with no wind has no bearing on how well you can tune a car. The car experiences different load in EVERY gear and it constantly changed due to the terrain of the road and the wind conditions and the amount of weight in the car and the aero of the car. There are sooooooooooooo many variables that having a dyno that simulates flat road and wind resistance has NO BEARING on how well it can be tuned.

To say that you can tune a car better on an MD is flat out wrong.

 

Yes.

 

I like data so I pulled up a log from my personal evo.



3rd and 4th are basically spot on in my Evo.

It is also using PSI-Target ecu-controlled boost so that might help a bit over something like a MBC or the like as it is doing it's best to hit target PSI in each gear and per each RPM. Load-target would be the same way, if not even more so as it is doing it's best to hit the target load per RPM no matter which gear.

1st and 2nd will be a little more off in matching load as there just isn't enough time and the gearing ratio is different. Doesn't really matter what boost controller, although from what I have seen and logged the ecu-controlled boost does it better in the lower gears.

I'm neither agreeing or challenging you with this post, just posting data, I like data.

Again, on the Mustang you can change the grade on the fly if you wish. So no, it does not just simulate flat road. Again, the operator is key.

 

Double check that please. Go take your car out in any gear and look at your vehicle speed at 2500 rpms and then again at 5000 rpms. You will see twice the vehicle speed.

Works in any gear all gears any rear end ratio.....

Given this, twice the roller speed on the MD is twice the rpm.

What you experienced with VW Jeff's car was tire growth.

 

How often is this used by the average tuner? What benefits does this have for the tune?