Anyone use Quartermaster clutch?
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville AR
This isn't really an update, I just thought I would quote the info I was sharing earlier about the PTT/Quartermaster clutch straight from the horses proverbial mouth...
Originally posted on DSMtuners by Twicks69 who is making over 740whp
Originally posted on DSMtuners by Twicks69 who is making over 740whp
I run a Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive (rally) twin-disk with the thick disks, and have had excellent results over the last two years with it. Personally, the QM's and the PTT's are nearly identical otherwise, so you can go with either one. The clutch disks from either manufacturer are interchangable with one another as well (as long as you are using the same thickness disks). As well, when I purchased my clutch, QM did not offer a 7-bolt flywheel, so I ended up with a PTT chromoly flywheel with my QM clutch.
Now, both companies offer these clutches for our cars in either 6-bolt or 7-bolt applications (just different flywheels are used). With the PTT flywheel, my flywheel is thinner at the mounting points than the previous flywheel used (fidanza), and it ended up requiring Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts instead of a manual transmission flywheel bolt. Be sure to still use locktite red and torque them properly.
With both models, when using the 7.25" clutch assembly, you can use a Mitsubishi Throw Out Bearing with no modifications.
Finally, you might need to clearance the clutch fork and the outer disk (facing the pressure plate), and it might require a little grinding to clear properly.
If anyone reading this is intending on doing a different size clutch (i.e. 4.5" or 5.5" setup), you will need to use a Quarter Master or PTT radial Throw Out Bearing properly sized for the clutch, with a custom CNC'd bracket, hydraulics, and then a Mitsubishi flexplate (for your application (6-bolt/7-bolt; AWD-FWD), the crank spacer, Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts, and you will need to redrill or get a custom button flywheel to attach to the flexplate.
Either way, I hope that this helps with your decisions.
QM from devotuning.com, or PTT from whoever you want (SBR, etc.). Both are more than enough to handle whatever you will be putting down, and both will be able to handle the heat and abuse of slipping the clutch at the line, and with normal street driving. After break-in, be sure to re-adjust the clutch and re-bleed the hydraulics so you do not cause premature wear to the clutch.
Good luck,
Now, both companies offer these clutches for our cars in either 6-bolt or 7-bolt applications (just different flywheels are used). With the PTT flywheel, my flywheel is thinner at the mounting points than the previous flywheel used (fidanza), and it ended up requiring Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts instead of a manual transmission flywheel bolt. Be sure to still use locktite red and torque them properly.
With both models, when using the 7.25" clutch assembly, you can use a Mitsubishi Throw Out Bearing with no modifications.
Finally, you might need to clearance the clutch fork and the outer disk (facing the pressure plate), and it might require a little grinding to clear properly.
If anyone reading this is intending on doing a different size clutch (i.e. 4.5" or 5.5" setup), you will need to use a Quarter Master or PTT radial Throw Out Bearing properly sized for the clutch, with a custom CNC'd bracket, hydraulics, and then a Mitsubishi flexplate (for your application (6-bolt/7-bolt; AWD-FWD), the crank spacer, Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts, and you will need to redrill or get a custom button flywheel to attach to the flexplate.
Either way, I hope that this helps with your decisions.
QM from devotuning.com, or PTT from whoever you want (SBR, etc.). Both are more than enough to handle whatever you will be putting down, and both will be able to handle the heat and abuse of slipping the clutch at the line, and with normal street driving. After break-in, be sure to re-adjust the clutch and re-bleed the hydraulics so you do not cause premature wear to the clutch.
Good luck,
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville AR
I also thought I would share another clutch post explaining why I won't be going with an excedy clutch over the ptt/quartermaster setup.
Originally posted on Dsmtuners by 95tsiAWD...
There have been a few more posts about similar problems from other users of the excedy clutch that scared me away from using them, but this is the only one I could find right away. It sounds to me like the ptt/quartermaster clutch or the Tilton is the only way to go if your making big power, and since one costs around $1,100 and the other around $5,000 It was kind of a no-brainer for a broke guy like myself.
Originally posted on Dsmtuners by 95tsiAWD...
It's been a while since I started this thread but I just wanted to put my two cents in.
I started with an ACT2600 and I ended up going with the Exedy Twin Disc clutch because the shop that I usually deal with said that they're never had any problems with Exedy, and with a trusted name like that... I shouldn't have anything to worry about either.
After about 1100 miles on the clutch (it was a daily driver) and NO abuse at all... the car was VERY hesitant to go into gear. Had the car towed to my local DSM shop. They checked all the hydraulics (which were all new) and everything seemed to be fine, so they removed the trans. The splines on the Exedy Discs and the splines on my input shaft were almost 100% GROUND ROUND.
I contacted Exedy for a warranty issue. The warranty department claimed that they have heard about this problem before, but it wasn't a normal occurrence. "It probably was just a bad batch of discs" they told me.
I sent the clutch back in and they swapped out the discs for brand new ones and I got the clutch back in about 2 weeks. I had to pay for the replacement of the input shaft, and I thought.. oh well... SH*T happens... right?
I put the clutch back in the car and it felt GREAT. About 1500 miles later... I was on my way home from work one night stopped at a light. As the light turned green I lightly got into first gear, shifted into 2nd gear and gave her some WOT. At the top of second gear, the rpm's jumped up and the car started gettin slower. (the feeling you usually get when a clutch is completely burnt out and slipping).
Had the car towed to the shop again.......... and AGAIN, they checked hydraulics and everything outside the trans before having to remove it again and nothing was wrong. They removed the trans and... guess what????? The splines on the discs and on the input shaft were GROUND ROUND AGAIN!!!!
I sent the clutch back to Exedy only this time Casey from the warranty department said that this happens all the time with this clutch and they'll be taking it off the shelves and it will be completely removed from the market.
Two clutch jobs and Two input shaft replacements later... I went back to ACT and got the 2900lb clutch w/ a street disc and streetlite flywheel. 6k miles on the clutch with multiple dyno and track visits.. WITH NO PROBLEMS.
Now I'm venturing back into the search for a good twin disc and purchased a Power Train Technology or "PTT" clutch and I hope this it goes well and holds the higher boost levels that I plan on running.
Now... if you ask me for my opinion??? STAY AWAY FROM EXEDY TWIN DISC CLUTCH KITS!!!!! There may still be a few kits out there that weren't sent back to Exedy, and you may be offered GOOD DEALS on them... please learn from my mistake.
I started with an ACT2600 and I ended up going with the Exedy Twin Disc clutch because the shop that I usually deal with said that they're never had any problems with Exedy, and with a trusted name like that... I shouldn't have anything to worry about either.
After about 1100 miles on the clutch (it was a daily driver) and NO abuse at all... the car was VERY hesitant to go into gear. Had the car towed to my local DSM shop. They checked all the hydraulics (which were all new) and everything seemed to be fine, so they removed the trans. The splines on the Exedy Discs and the splines on my input shaft were almost 100% GROUND ROUND.
I contacted Exedy for a warranty issue. The warranty department claimed that they have heard about this problem before, but it wasn't a normal occurrence. "It probably was just a bad batch of discs" they told me.
I sent the clutch back in and they swapped out the discs for brand new ones and I got the clutch back in about 2 weeks. I had to pay for the replacement of the input shaft, and I thought.. oh well... SH*T happens... right?
I put the clutch back in the car and it felt GREAT. About 1500 miles later... I was on my way home from work one night stopped at a light. As the light turned green I lightly got into first gear, shifted into 2nd gear and gave her some WOT. At the top of second gear, the rpm's jumped up and the car started gettin slower. (the feeling you usually get when a clutch is completely burnt out and slipping).
Had the car towed to the shop again.......... and AGAIN, they checked hydraulics and everything outside the trans before having to remove it again and nothing was wrong. They removed the trans and... guess what????? The splines on the discs and on the input shaft were GROUND ROUND AGAIN!!!!
I sent the clutch back to Exedy only this time Casey from the warranty department said that this happens all the time with this clutch and they'll be taking it off the shelves and it will be completely removed from the market.
Two clutch jobs and Two input shaft replacements later... I went back to ACT and got the 2900lb clutch w/ a street disc and streetlite flywheel. 6k miles on the clutch with multiple dyno and track visits.. WITH NO PROBLEMS.
Now I'm venturing back into the search for a good twin disc and purchased a Power Train Technology or "PTT" clutch and I hope this it goes well and holds the higher boost levels that I plan on running.
Now... if you ask me for my opinion??? STAY AWAY FROM EXEDY TWIN DISC CLUTCH KITS!!!!! There may still be a few kits out there that weren't sent back to Exedy, and you may be offered GOOD DEALS on them... please learn from my mistake.
Just wanted to give an update of my own...
After selling my exedy i got a Quartermaster twin from Devo, being that my car is a 6-speed i was very skeptical whether this kit would really work with the adapter adam (from devo) made. After putting the clutch in the car this past weekend i can say bar none, this is the best feeling clutch i have ever driven in an evo. And it works for the 6-speed!
Good stuff.
After selling my exedy i got a Quartermaster twin from Devo, being that my car is a 6-speed i was very skeptical whether this kit would really work with the adapter adam (from devo) made. After putting the clutch in the car this past weekend i can say bar none, this is the best feeling clutch i have ever driven in an evo. And it works for the 6-speed!
Good stuff.
I just drove in a 42R race car (last night) and it had a quartermaster clutch in it. We did some pulls on the street yesterday after the owner closed shop. Besides this clutch not likeing daily driveing as much but when shifting at WOT i was very impressed with the super fast engagement. Even though the car only had 110oct 28psi with slicks the car with just had a massive amount of grip anyways quartermaster clutchs are well worth getting. If you daliy drive the car you should be able to get use to it very quickly. Thats my review.
Hey sorry about not posting back w/ my 1st hand experience but since driving our buddy's evo w/ it i recently put one in my car the other day.
I was hoping to start a seperate thread to give my impression as well as post up pics and maybe eventually a video ....... but i need to find darn usb cable
Anyway briefly the clutch feels great, a bit of initial chatter, a little noisey, but the damn thing feels like it can hold a lot of TQ and HP.
The main thing is the shifting feels much, much better.
I just hope the trans/tc don't die
I'll do my best to have it up tonight or tomorrow.
I was hoping to start a seperate thread to give my impression as well as post up pics and maybe eventually a video ....... but i need to find darn usb cable
Anyway briefly the clutch feels great, a bit of initial chatter, a little noisey, but the damn thing feels like it can hold a lot of TQ and HP.
The main thing is the shifting feels much, much better.
I just hope the trans/tc don't die
I'll do my best to have it up tonight or tomorrow.
For me it all comes down to what you need based on your HP/TQ level and what you plan on doing with the car.
We drag race our cars so we need something to hold lots of HP but allow fast shifts and enough room to slip the clutch off the line.
We drive our cars on the street often heck the blue evo drives to and from the track full cage and straight 3.5" exhaust
Could you daily drive it yes.........do I want to.......NOPE.....thats' why i have my F-150
Originally posted on DSMtuners by Twicks69 who is making over 740whp
Quote:
I run a Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive (rally) twin-disk with the thick disks, and have had excellent results over the last two years with it. Personally, the QM's and the PTT's are nearly identical otherwise, so you can go with either one. The clutch disks from either manufacturer are interchangable with one another as well (as long as you are using the same thickness disks). As well, when I purchased my clutch, QM did not offer a 7-bolt flywheel, so I ended up with a PTT chromoly flywheel with my QM clutch.
Now, both companies offer these clutches for our cars in either 6-bolt or 7-bolt applications (just different flywheels are used). With the PTT flywheel, my flywheel is thinner at the mounting points than the previous flywheel used (fidanza), and it ended up requiring Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts instead of a manual transmission flywheel bolt. Be sure to still use locktite red and torque them properly.
With both models, when using the 7.25" clutch assembly, you can use a Mitsubishi Throw Out Bearing with no modifications.
Finally, you might need to clearance the clutch fork and the outer disk (facing the pressure plate), and it might require a little grinding to clear properly.
If anyone reading this is intending on doing a different size clutch (i.e. 4.5" or 5.5" setup), you will need to use a Quarter Master or PTT radial Throw Out Bearing properly sized for the clutch, with a custom CNC'd bracket, hydraulics, and then a Mitsubishi flexplate (for your application (6-bolt/7-bolt; AWD-FWD), the crank spacer, Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts, and you will need to redrill or get a custom button flywheel to attach to the flexplate.
Either way, I hope that this helps with your decisions.
QM from devotuning.com, or PTT from whoever you want (SBR, etc.). Both are more than enough to handle whatever you will be putting down, and both will be able to handle the heat and abuse of slipping the clutch at the line, and with normal street driving. After break-in, be sure to re-adjust the clutch and re-bleed the hydraulics so you do not cause premature wear to the clutch.
Good luck,
this SAME **** happend to me....exactly like this!!!!
look here and you'll see pics https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=360629
Quote:
I run a Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive (rally) twin-disk with the thick disks, and have had excellent results over the last two years with it. Personally, the QM's and the PTT's are nearly identical otherwise, so you can go with either one. The clutch disks from either manufacturer are interchangable with one another as well (as long as you are using the same thickness disks). As well, when I purchased my clutch, QM did not offer a 7-bolt flywheel, so I ended up with a PTT chromoly flywheel with my QM clutch.
Now, both companies offer these clutches for our cars in either 6-bolt or 7-bolt applications (just different flywheels are used). With the PTT flywheel, my flywheel is thinner at the mounting points than the previous flywheel used (fidanza), and it ended up requiring Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts instead of a manual transmission flywheel bolt. Be sure to still use locktite red and torque them properly.
With both models, when using the 7.25" clutch assembly, you can use a Mitsubishi Throw Out Bearing with no modifications.
Finally, you might need to clearance the clutch fork and the outer disk (facing the pressure plate), and it might require a little grinding to clear properly.
If anyone reading this is intending on doing a different size clutch (i.e. 4.5" or 5.5" setup), you will need to use a Quarter Master or PTT radial Throw Out Bearing properly sized for the clutch, with a custom CNC'd bracket, hydraulics, and then a Mitsubishi flexplate (for your application (6-bolt/7-bolt; AWD-FWD), the crank spacer, Mitsubishi Automatic Flexplate bolts, and you will need to redrill or get a custom button flywheel to attach to the flexplate.
Either way, I hope that this helps with your decisions.
QM from devotuning.com, or PTT from whoever you want (SBR, etc.). Both are more than enough to handle whatever you will be putting down, and both will be able to handle the heat and abuse of slipping the clutch at the line, and with normal street driving. After break-in, be sure to re-adjust the clutch and re-bleed the hydraulics so you do not cause premature wear to the clutch.
Good luck,
this SAME **** happend to me....exactly like this!!!!
look here and you'll see pics https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=360629
Last edited by Johnboy1065; Jul 30, 2008 at 12:24 PM.
so your guys are saying dont buy a exedy twin HD??? LOL this is the first i ever heard of people having these problems with the unit. I understand things happen. Im in the market for a clutch as soon as i install my fp red and br stage 3 head so i know im gonna need anew clutch. I plan on DD and maybe some street racing not much and tracking it but mostly DD. so i thought the exedy would be perfect for this but this quartermaster is good so you say but not for DD so what should i get for my kind of use.
