Ok so I have posted this same problem here twice before. But everytime I did it there were other factors in play that I had to take care of just to make sure they werent the problem.

So I been having a problem with the car idling very rich, right around a 10-11 afr at idle. I have no boost leaks, my front o2 sensor is fine, and I just had my injectors bench flowed and cleaned, RC engineering matched them all at 650cc within like 1%. I was running an aftermarket intake manifold and fuel pressure regulator but decided to take it all of and go back to stock.

Also there are no cels or codes being thrown in obd scan tech or evo scan for that matter.

Now on the car is the stock manifold, fuel pressure regulator, and everything else in my signature. Which by the way came with the car. Also the car has been sitting around 3 years now to this day and only has 23,000 on the odometer.

Anyone have any other ideas ? I was thinking I some how got the injector wires mixed up but wouldnt the car not start or at least throw a code ? ( thought about it but not really possible if you have re did the wiring harness you'll know what i mean.

Thanks again guys. I dont know what it could be. Any help would be great and sorry for bugging everyone with the same problem lol its killing me too.

Edit:: No More Signature I forgot. Anyway mods are:

HKS 272 Intake and Exhaust Cams
HKS Suction Intake
HKS EVC
PTE Injectors (Flowed 650cc at RC Engineering)
Thats pretty much it for anything that would make a difference anyway.

EDIt#2: As of tonight 5/23 I have all stock parts on my car besides hks 272 cams which i cant take out dont have stock ones. Anyway the higher scaling was nothing but a band aid for a sec and then it went right back to normal. So I decided wtf Ill put the stock injectors in and i did along with changing my scaling and latency's. Still didnt do nothing. So there is nothing left for me to change besides sensors.

I also did a boost leak after the injector swap trial. I put 40 psi into the intake piping and IM so on, there were no aboslutely no leaks right up to the point i knew it for certain because it blew the boost leak tester right out of the coupler cranked down with a t bolt and then also blew the fitting out of it for the air hose. lol. (so you know the raccord connector for the compressor was threaded into the plastic.)

 

Someone ? Anyone ? lol. Just lookin for some ideas. Lunch time bump.

 

Are you postive your WB is reading correctly? Does your front O2 also show a rich condition at idle?

What is your STFT and LTFT Lo at idle? Are they both maxed at -25% and -12.5%, respectively?

 

Are your injectors scaled properly?

 

Im working with 4ws to tune the car so as for the injectors and tune its all fine. As for the front o2 sensor its giving me a .9v reading i believe when the car is warm and at an idle. And yes the Wb is working correctly I just re installed a new one.

 

Ohh and for the fuel trims im not getting any kind of reading in mitsulogger and in evo scan im getting a decimal value (Note Evoscan formula changed to read in %'s)

Quick question while im here. In the time that i re did some wiring i had my injectors wires re-routed. In doing so i could have gotten them mixed up but they go from shortest to longest so i didnt think i could f*ck that up. But seeing i have no other ideas i just wanted to make sure. Even if they were wrong wouldnt the car not start or atleast throw a code ?

 

Ok so my fuel trims on evo scan are at .1008 at idle warm, and my o2 sensor is putting out .8-9 volts.

Just for the hell of it I just changed my scaling and latency's from 680cc injectors to 1000cc injectors. Car ran much better for what ever reason. It put it up in the 11's for a afr and i could actually put the car in 1st and drive it sort of with out it bogging out.

 

PTE injectors that flowed 650 and they were previously scaled to 680? Or were they 680's scaled to something lower before you changed it to scale to 1000's?

 

does the Idle jumps? its steedy? I would check the TB , just pop upper pipe and move the flapper see if it is clean, IF your idle is steedy.... after the car warms up I maybe adjust the idle, sligthly on TB there is a screw on the top...

 

Idle is fine. But very rich.

When i scaled the injectors for 1000cc i got the car to move without bogging out but its not right so i scaled them back.

When i did do it i got the car to idle the best with 883 as the scaling but the latency's werent right because i had hesitation and needed to feather the gas to get it take any gas without bogging.

Edit: I also tryed a combo of 1008 scaling with 680cc latencys and it ran fine but it didnt effect the afr at all.

I have the stock injectors which im going to swap in quick to see if thats the problem. If it is i dont see why when i had them bench flowed, cleaned, and matched.

 

Anyone have any ideas ?

 

Come on people any ideas ? I just switched the pte injectors that were bench flowed and matched at 650cc's back to the stock injectors and changed all my scaling and latency's to stock.

It still made no difference. So i did a boost leak test and put 40 psi into the car. My actual boost leak tester blew right out of the coupling after like 15 secs of being chaqrged.

So i have no idea at this point. I cut the rear o2 because i was going to splice it into the front but from what obd II scanner and my loggers say im getting a .8-.9v reading at idle with a 10.5-10.9 afr.

So i really dont feel like dropping most of the turbo and exhaust to change it espcially with no lift and a make shift garage with lost and found tools. lmao. thats what i have to work with.

 

good morning bump... Any ideas yet people ?