ok, someone clue me in real quick- is resetting the ecu as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? is there something more to it?

i'm playing around with a higher octane mix, and want to see the effect of resetting the ecu to remap on the good stuff...

thanks!

 

pull off the negative wire for 15 miniutes = 1 reset ecu

 

great, thanks!

 

i left mine disconnected for an hour just to be sure you know

 

Dont waste your time disconnecting the battery!!~!~!~

Here what you do, I learned this from Shiv:

1- remove glove box (very easy, takes 10 seconds!)
2- remove plastic ecu wire cover panel (just snaps out towards you)
3- unplug the far left ecu connector from the ecu.
4- press brake pedal until its hard.
5- plug the far left ecu connector back into the ecu.

your car will now rebuild its MAS table, due to the ECU reset. you can now reset your ECU EASILY, and still retain all of your radio stations and what not!

 

BTW - with an ECU reset, you will not see any HP gain unless you were coming from 91 **** octane and going to 94 or something... then you may see a few degrees of advanced timing near redline.

You should see ~18 or 19 degrees of timing advance at redline. If your not, your ecu is pulling timing. If you have a datalogger, you should really pay attention to it! If you dont have one, you can pick the software and obdII cable up at www.pocketlogger.com very sweet investment. Plus you can charge your friends for debugging their codes!

 

heh- you just nailed it on the head.

sick of my california 91 **** water, and i've been experimenting with toluene and xylene mixes for the last month or so. what i haven't done yet is: a) reset the ecu, and b) get the octane up in the ~95 range. so that's my plan for the weekend.

good trick, boosted, i'll give it a shot.

thanks-

 

When you log this info what else do you log at the same time to know you're at WOT ? I know you know you're at WOT when you're in the car and have the foot to the floor, but later on when you're looking at the data, what do you use to show you you're at WOT ?

I've been logging "Calculated Engine Load, Engine Speed and Ignition Timing" and in some of my data logs I have 18 to 20 degrees timing from 6500 to 7000 rpm, but I also get the odd one at 38 degrees. The 38 degrees is when I am backing off the throttle I believe.

 

Is there a functional difference between resetting via the battery vs. the brake pedal method? Will it rebuild the tables after resetting by pulling the battery cable?

 

Don't they have a fuse that can be pulled????

My ****ty ford contour had a fuse for the ecu you could pull for a few minutes to reset it, I know it works cause it gives a cel every few weeks that I have to keep resetting.

 

umm?? easier?

i thkn ill just undo my battery

 

Actually, I don't think the brake pedal is a necessary step. If I am not mistaken, plug 1 carries the power to the ECU. Disconnecting it long enough for any capacitors to drain (10 secs or so) should reset it.

Also, I don't remove my glove box. If you just pull back gently on the access panel enough to release the clips closest to the firewall, it will pivot downward like a hinge and expose the ECU connectors.

 

Bigd you got it man lol. That method is a lot easier than removing the negative terminal. 1 you dont need any tools and 2 it only takes 10 seconds to reset.

big - are you still enjoying your Xede? Ive been running mine without the boost control for a while because I was hitting fuel cut!! =(

 

i actually confirmed that with shiv just to be sure of how long i'm supposed to hold the pedal in- not so much a neccesary step as a way to drain any latent energy in the system by turning on the brake light. turns your ten seconds into a coupla. nothing more than that.

of course, if it takes ten seconds to drag my *** back around to the drivers seat to hit the pedal, i guess it's a wash...

 

Ok what I dont get it you guys making this so complicated...disconnecting the battery takes likes 20 seconds with minimal work...opening the glovebox and reaching for the ECU both involve about the same amount of work...