Free H.P.?
Evolving Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: Western NY
When it opens it still blocks part of the flow maybe.
Like my old Porsche intake system it has a "swinging door" type of thing that still blocks part of the intake pipe.
The new one is just a thin wire that blocks very little flow.
In other words...
Most valves restrict some flow even when in the open position.
Like my old Porsche intake system it has a "swinging door" type of thing that still blocks part of the intake pipe.
The new one is just a thin wire that blocks very little flow.
In other words...
Most valves restrict some flow even when in the open position.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Originally posted by DavidV@WORKS
Look to drop weight above the beltline and at the polar ends of the car as far as static weight goes. However, for the real significant benefits, concentrate on rotating and unsprung mass.
Look to drop weight above the beltline and at the polar ends of the car as far as static weight goes. However, for the real significant benefits, concentrate on rotating and unsprung mass.
What can be done to reduce weight? The only things I'm aware of are, 1) get the Evo without the sunroof option, 2) Optima or other 1/2 size battery, 3) remove spare and jack from trunk; and 4) lighter wheels (e.g., Volk CE28N's).
What else is there to do, for reasonable $$$, and still have a streetable car?
Originally posted by Nyc_Ryc
What can be done to reduce weight? The only things I'm aware of are, 1) get the Evo without the sunroof option, 2) Optima or other 1/2 size battery, 3) remove spare and jack from trunk; and 4) lighter wheels (e.g., Volk CE28N's).
What else is there to do, for reasonable $$$, and still have a streetable car?
What can be done to reduce weight? The only things I'm aware of are, 1) get the Evo without the sunroof option, 2) Optima or other 1/2 size battery, 3) remove spare and jack from trunk; and 4) lighter wheels (e.g., Volk CE28N's).
What else is there to do, for reasonable $$$, and still have a streetable car?
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Just a little note, I've been told by the Mitsu dealership that you can gain approx. 25% increase in power by doing something with the exhaust and intake. They also told me it wouldn't void your warranty. I don't remember what he told me you had to do, but he said you can gain that extra amount in power.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: HAWAII
I agree with weight reduction as a good first free mod. Take out your spare, jack, tools and put in a can of fix-o-flat instead, saves 40+lbs right off the bat. Also a MBC and boost guage is a cheap way to gain power. congrats on your evo.
Originally posted by Showteg
Just a little note, I've been told by the Mitsu dealership that you can gain approx. 25% increase in power by doing something with the exhaust and intake. They also told me it wouldn't void your warranty. I don't remember what he told me you had to do, but he said you can gain that extra amount in power.
Just a little note, I've been told by the Mitsu dealership that you can gain approx. 25% increase in power by doing something with the exhaust and intake. They also told me it wouldn't void your warranty. I don't remember what he told me you had to do, but he said you can gain that extra amount in power.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Originally posted by boostedwrx
What is that old formula? Like X amount of rotating mass is equal to Y static mass???
If you have 20lb stock rims and you slap on some 14lb forged rims, you shaved 24lbs of rotating mass (6lbs x 4wheels) just by swapping wheels. How much would that equal in static mass?
Another excellent item for weight lose are the rotors. I think Pruven makes some 2 piece rotors with aluminum center hats.
What is that old formula? Like X amount of rotating mass is equal to Y static mass???
If you have 20lb stock rims and you slap on some 14lb forged rims, you shaved 24lbs of rotating mass (6lbs x 4wheels) just by swapping wheels. How much would that equal in static mass?
Another excellent item for weight lose are the rotors. I think Pruven makes some 2 piece rotors with aluminum center hats.
a=T(2/md+d/2I)
a = acceleration
T = torque driving the wheel
m = mass the wheel must "tow" from the centre of rotation (COR)
d = diameter of tire
I = polar moment of inertia of wheel/tire combination
IF anyone knows a simpler formula that might be slightly less accurate but much more usable...please PM with it. I have looked for the past 2 hours
Off topic for a second guys, sorry.
Hey! Joing up at www.midwestlancers.com/forums RIGHT NOW! the link posted earlier was to one of the older boards... that link right ^ thurr is the new link to the newly designed and upgraded forums!
Hope you enjoy the site, and congrats on your new purchase!
Hope to see you lurkin aroudn the MLC forums!
~ Mike
Hey! Joing up at www.midwestlancers.com/forums RIGHT NOW! the link posted earlier was to one of the older boards... that link right ^ thurr is the new link to the newly designed and upgraded forums!
Hope you enjoy the site, and congrats on your new purchase!
Hope to see you lurkin aroudn the MLC forums!
~ Mike
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville, FL
I get somewhere around 13 lb-ft savings for 1g of acceleration (around launch acceleration for evo) for the wheel upgrade. not to mention the obvious handling benefits. But at higher speeds where acceleration is lower the wheel upgrade wont make much difference. For example, 0-60 in 5 sec is an average acceleration of .55g for a savings of 7 lb-ft.