Boosting only 12psi...
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Boosting only 12psi...
Like the title states. Im only boosting 12 psi. I run a HKS EVC so im not sure if its holding it at 12 psi also and not letting it drop if its trying to.
I checked for boost leaks there doesnt seem to be any. But I am gonna keep checking to make sure. So once I found no leaks I decided to see if the wastegate had any preload on it. And yes it did.
The car runs solid. Still drives fine and afr are not bad seems rich but it needs a little fine tuning still. Anyone have any ideas where i should start now ?
Thanks. I work 6 days a week and late usually and I got a set of lost and found tools. lol.
Thanks Jeremy
I checked for boost leaks there doesnt seem to be any. But I am gonna keep checking to make sure. So once I found no leaks I decided to see if the wastegate had any preload on it. And yes it did.
The car runs solid. Still drives fine and afr are not bad seems rich but it needs a little fine tuning still. Anyone have any ideas where i should start now ?
Thanks. I work 6 days a week and late usually and I got a set of lost and found tools. lol.
Thanks Jeremy
If your car is only boosting to 12 PSI, then by definition the spring preload can't be more than 12 PSI, unless there is something else wrong with your setup, such as: a boost leak, the BOV/DV opening prematurely, the wastegate flapper valve is broken, improperly routed boost controller hoses, improperly programmed EBC, or MBC malfunction.
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Thanks Sparky. Im gonna have to check my ebc vac lines because i did un hook them before to work on the car. Think if i did accidentally got the waste gate and turbo outlet vacuum lines swapped it would make that much of a difference ?
Disconnect the vacuum line going to your wastegate. Go out and drive it. You should be able to boost 30+ psi (But don't let it go that high!)
And if it boosts over 12psi with it disconnected, then it's your wastegate that is bad.
And if it boosts over 12psi with it disconnected, then it's your wastegate that is bad.
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So first thing i tried first was what Sparky suggested and make sure my hks evc vacuum lines are all going to the right place. I had the hks evc in the car when i bought it so im not sure what lines go where. But i switched the wastegate and turbo inlet line and nothing still only boosting 12 psi.
So after that i did like subrwho suggested and pull the vacuum line off the wastegate totally. I took it out for a spin and it did boost past 12 psi but only 22 psi. Which is low for the vacuum line being off. No ?
So now im at the point that im unsure what it could be. What do you guys think ? In need of a new wastegate or boost controller ?
So after that i did like subrwho suggested and pull the vacuum line off the wastegate totally. I took it out for a spin and it did boost past 12 psi but only 22 psi. Which is low for the vacuum line being off. No ?
So now im at the point that im unsure what it could be. What do you guys think ? In need of a new wastegate or boost controller ?
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If the unrestricted turbo only show's 22psi your gauge may be off or malfunctioning. Turbo with wastegate disconnected should be much higher. What does your gauge read when the engine is off, key on.
And if it boosts over 12psi then the wastegate needs to be replaced?
If disconnected wastegate boosts less than 12psi then it maybe be broken flapper or such inside turbo?
Try connecting a piece of vacuum hose directly from your WGA to the compressor housing discharge tube's nipple. (Be sure to seal off the open EBC hose ends).
Now, try dialing in more WG preload via rotaion of the turnbuckle(eyelet) on the end of the adjustable wastegate actuator rod, which is threaded for this purpose. Try giving it three complete turns.
If the boost level goes up after shortening the actuator rod, then this would mean that your WGA as well as the flapper valve are both functioning properly. It would also rule out the possibility of a boost leak as the source of your problem.
Now, try dialing in more WG preload via rotaion of the turnbuckle(eyelet) on the end of the adjustable wastegate actuator rod, which is threaded for this purpose. Try giving it three complete turns.
If the boost level goes up after shortening the actuator rod, then this would mean that your WGA as well as the flapper valve are both functioning properly. It would also rule out the possibility of a boost leak as the source of your problem.
Looking like it has a lot of preload is not the same as having empirically verified the WG preload level as being at X PSI.
Last edited by sparky; Jun 8, 2008 at 04:34 AM.
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Yah but i mean its like at the end of its threads. I dont think there are any more turns left in it. Im going to go try and see if i can get the actuator rod to move back and forth at all spray it with wd-40. lol.


