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Got dynoed today, not sure what to think

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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:39 PM
  #16  
cfdfireman1's Avatar
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From: Chicago
Are those corrected numbers? Humidity was at 100% at one time today. Throw some C16 in it, "drop the dress and turn up the boost" see what it will really do.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #17  
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From: Cambridge Ohio
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Temp changes are offset by the built-in correction factor unless they set it to uncorrected.
I assumed no CF, but now that I think about it AMS probably keeps thiers set at Standard Correction

my bad
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:41 PM
  #18  
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From: Chicago burbs'
Originally Posted by Blitz
It was definitely hotter today than during baseline. Today was around 85, I think.

Not sure if my plugs are fresh. Car doesn't have much mileag, so I'm guessing so.

Gas not from the same station, but 93 octane is 93 octane, right?

And I'm not sure what AMS's dyno type is, but they told me it does read pretty low compared to a lot of dynoes.

Here's a vid of a different IX MR on their dyno. Apparently, 330 whp with not much more than me...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2PTabGt3LA
Outside temp wont play a massive part with power as AMS uses SAE correction (most of the time) vs. uncorrected. It will effect making power a little bit, but my power a made on a 100 deg. day on SAE. Maybe in the middle of winter you would make 320 on uncorrected, but sae is supposed to average it by using formula's to compensate for weather conditions. (somebody correct me if I am wrong).

AMS has a Awd dynojet. And 93 octane is NOT 93 octane. Example, I know of a few subaru's that have blown up due to driving hard with BP gas in the tank, don't know why, but pistons don't just melt for no reason... The only thing to change was the gas, same driving.
Look into changing plugs and check for boost leaks. If the car doesn't have any, check the compression of the motor.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:44 PM
  #19  
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From: ft.lauderdale fla
Originally Posted by Tarmacisback69
should be around the 320-340whp..
i pulled 330 on a mustang dyno with a tbe,boost controller,drop in..

+1^^
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:56 PM
  #20  
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From: Earth
Originally Posted by inneedof
When was the last time you replaced the plugs?
Never.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #21  
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It might just be me being **** but I never run plugs more than 3k on the Evo. They are cheap enough to replace that often.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:19 PM
  #22  
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There is no reason to change plugs unless they are fouled, which you will know by when the car sputters at full boost. Changing every 3k is excessive unless they are already fouled. I keep a bunch in stock in my toolbox and keep a set in the car so that I can change them at any time, but not until needed.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 2highpsi
It might just be me being **** but I never run plugs more than 3k on the Evo. They are cheap enough to replace that often.
One thing to remember here...Evo 9's run NGK Iridiums that run about $45 for a set. That's the replacement plugs. One step colder run about $145 from what I've seen. Now Evo 8's run the BPR7ES stock which cost about $10-$12...cheap. And the BPR8ES plugs are about the same, if not cheaper.

So with the IX it's not as easy to just throw another set of plugs in every 3k miles. That does seem a bit excessive for changing plugs though. The least amount of miles I would put on a set of plugs would be 6k. But that would only be if I ran the car at the track A LOT.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:42 PM
  #24  
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I get ngk bpr8es for a little over 2 bucks a plug. I know they don't NEED changed that often, but for that price I just assume change them. I have actually pulled a few out that the gaps had changed a little even after only 3K.

btw warr, I believe a plug can hinder performance before actually sputtering. I could be wrong though.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:44 PM
  #25  
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i would've expected at least 310
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:47 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 2highpsi
I get ngk bpr8es for a little over 2 bucks a plug. I know they don't NEED changed that often, but for that price I just assume change them. I have actually pulled a few out that the gaps had changed a little even after only 3K.

btw warr, I believe a plug can hinder performance before actually sputtering. I could be wrong though.
Maybe, but I haven't experienced it yet in 4 DSMs over 11 years. I keep spare sets of BR8ES all the time, but I have never gotten to the point where I missing power randomly. Mine will start going bad and start to sputter, so I change them right after that. A few times I have changed them before a big race just to be sure it didn't pop up right in the middle of competition.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:52 PM
  #27  
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You dont need to change your plugs on a IX as often as you do on a VIII. This is because the IX calls for a different plug thats last a long time. Numbers are a bit low. If you replaced them i bet you wont see any difference. Stick with Shell 93. I never had a problem with it.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 08:56 PM
  #28  
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From: philadelphia
im pretty sure the copper plugs for the 9 are pretty cheap but only last a few thousand miles.
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #29  
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Those numbers are almost identical to what my IX did on Buschurs dyno with a TBE, filter, mbc and flash. Ironically, with the parts on, stock tune it did what yours baselined at, and after the tune the final numbers where almost identical to yours.

SQ
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Old Jun 30, 2008 | 09:53 PM
  #30  
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From: Earth
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
There is no reason to change plugs unless they are fouled, which you will know by when the car sputters at full boost. Changing every 3k is excessive unless they are already fouled. I keep a bunch in stock in my toolbox and keep a set in the car so that I can change them at any time, but not until needed.
Any recommendations?
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