a/c problems - can anyone help
you can..
..clean it, they have some aerosol that you spray into the system it foams up cleans, kills mold etc.
Talked to my AC guru and he says it could also be the pressure switch as mentioned, too much freon or the car may be running hot. He wants to know outside temps when this happens or is this all the time, are both the fans running when the AC is on?
Talked to my AC guru and he says it could also be the pressure switch as mentioned, too much freon or the car may be running hot. He wants to know outside temps when this happens or is this all the time, are both the fans running when the AC is on?
yes... i have a cabin filter...
cabin filter smelled like mildew and my squash airfreshener... was pretty dirty...
i plan on picking up a new one today to alleviate that issue.
is there any way to verify if the evaporator is clogged? any way to unclog it?
thanks for the input!
regards
flip
cabin filter smelled like mildew and my squash airfreshener... was pretty dirty...
i plan on picking up a new one today to alleviate that issue.
is there any way to verify if the evaporator is clogged? any way to unclog it?
thanks for the input!
regards
flip
Last edited by cfdfireman1; Jul 14, 2008 at 06:10 PM.
..clean it, they have some aerosol that you spray into the system it foams up cleans, kills mold etc.
Talked to my AC guru and he says it could also be the pressure switch as mentioned, too much freon or the car may be running hot. He wants to know outside temps when this happens or is this all the time, are both the fans running when the AC is on?
Talked to my AC guru and he says it could also be the pressure switch as mentioned, too much freon or the car may be running hot. He wants to know outside temps when this happens or is this all the time, are both the fans running when the AC is on?
what i noticed is that... before starting the car... slapping my guage in (which is also used to load freon into the car) is in the blue zone... but when the system shuts off... it's in the red... meaning too much pressure.
is there a cause for this?
can anyone verify what the starting pressure should be?
as far as the car running hot... even when the car is in motion... allowing itself to cool down to running temps... the a/c still shuts down...
If you have no voltage- that means something is telling the a/c not to cycle on/off. Possible high/low pressure switch
If you have battery voltage there- chances are you compressor coil is weak, or the air gap between the clutch and coil is too much. When the a/c is turned on but not functioning- check for battery voltage at the compressor. If you have it- very carefully (I can't stress this enough) poke the front of the compressor with a piece of wood and see if the compressor comes to life. Again- be careful doing this
If you have battery voltage there- chances are you compressor coil is weak, or the air gap between the clutch and coil is too much. When the a/c is turned on but not functioning- check for battery voltage at the compressor. If you have it- very carefully (I can't stress this enough) poke the front of the compressor with a piece of wood and see if the compressor comes to life. Again- be careful doing this
voltage check results were good...
The a/c never turns back on are you sure? Usually it will cycle and keep turning on and off trying to build psi, if there is hardly any freon in it in which there may be a leak. If you smell mildew and what not, it's also possible that your a/c water drain is clogged and water's backing up inside causing that smell as well. Try to get underneath it with an air hose and flush out the pipe that drains the evaporator's condensation. You may experience water coming into the cockpit in this case as well. Not positive on a cabin filter being there and able to be changed, but if there is on i suggest change it as well. Your a/c switch may be malfunctioning as well try to find it and move the wires around and see what happens. There are a few possibilities so check each one. If you can and are able to put DIRECT power and GROUND to the a/c compressor and make it turn on this way bypassing the whole control and all, then it's not the Compressor thats the problem, it's something else!
yes ambiant...
... temp is needed to check for proper pressure for example high side pressure should be around 115 at 70F and up to 225 at 95F. Pressure must be check with the car running. It sounds like you have too much freon in the system did you open it up or something? Best thing to do would be to evacuate the system and add the proper amount of freon 1LB. Gauges with colors not numbers aren't going to help you much but you can take a look at the site glass, let out a small amount of freon just until you see a few very tiny bubbles in the system but it's not the best way. If you want take a look at the AC section from the shop manual. Good luck. http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/...5/evo%20ac.zip
outside temps? ambient temperature? or temps of the car?
what i noticed is that... before starting the car... slapping my guage in (which is also used to load freon into the car) is in the blue zone... but when the system shuts off... it's in the red... meaning too much pressure.
is there a cause for this?
can anyone verify what the starting pressure should be?
as far as the car running hot... even when the car is in motion... allowing itself to cool down to running temps... the a/c still shuts down...
what i noticed is that... before starting the car... slapping my guage in (which is also used to load freon into the car) is in the blue zone... but when the system shuts off... it's in the red... meaning too much pressure.
is there a cause for this?
can anyone verify what the starting pressure should be?
as far as the car running hot... even when the car is in motion... allowing itself to cool down to running temps... the a/c still shuts down...
bunni34... when driving...
after the a/c shuts down....
it will try to kick on when the car runs above 3krpms in short 2-3 min spurts...
about 15 min into the drive...
it'll just shut down and not turn on again...
freon levels have not changed to low levels... at idle... when doing all the tests on my driveway... the pressure shows that it's a bit high... but does not fall to the low level ratings when it cools off...
which wires for the a/c are you talking about? i can gets ta wiggling soon...
as for making the clutch engage and disengage on the compressor... i've done that and it proven succesful...
regards
flip
after the a/c shuts down....
it will try to kick on when the car runs above 3krpms in short 2-3 min spurts...
about 15 min into the drive...
it'll just shut down and not turn on again...
freon levels have not changed to low levels... at idle... when doing all the tests on my driveway... the pressure shows that it's a bit high... but does not fall to the low level ratings when it cools off...
which wires for the a/c are you talking about? i can gets ta wiggling soon...
as for making the clutch engage and disengage on the compressor... i've done that and it proven succesful...
regards
flip
... temp is needed to check for proper pressure for example high side pressure should be around 115 at 70F and up to 225 at 95F. Pressure must be check with the car running. It sounds like you have too much freon in the system did you open it up or something? Best thing to do would be to evacuate the system and add the proper amount of freon 1LB. Gauges with colors not numbers aren't going to help you much but you can take a look at the site glass, let out a small amount of freon just until you see a few very tiny bubbles in the system but it's not the best way. If you want take a look at the AC section from the shop manual. Good luck. http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/2/...5/evo%20ac.zip
after discharging the system... (of course in an enviornmentallly safe way
) the system is to only be charged to?????i've been reading the service manual up and down and i'm still at a complete loss with this car
Ok so we know the a/c is working with direct power meaning that it's not becoming faulty on it's own.
Hmm...And you have not messed with the System as far as adding or removing freon? If so there may be a possibility of to little or to much freon making the higher psi shut down the compressor as not to blow it up internally.
If your sure it's not the freon, then after checking the switch, compressor, even the damn condenser fan making sure thats working and is turning on to COOL down the high side, then my only other option would be that your a/c relay may have a malfunction and when it's gets hot sticks and doesn't allow the a/c to turn back on. Try locating that and switching it out with a relay that looks the same next to it, just make sure what one you use to switch it with!! (only if it's the same looking relay or #) take it out of like a horn or something that won't cause damage! Also check the interior buttons, may be shorted.
If after all this the problem has not been taken care of might as well get it checked out by someone close to you who can hands on help you better.
Good luck!
Hmm...And you have not messed with the System as far as adding or removing freon? If so there may be a possibility of to little or to much freon making the higher psi shut down the compressor as not to blow it up internally.
If your sure it's not the freon, then after checking the switch, compressor, even the damn condenser fan making sure thats working and is turning on to COOL down the high side, then my only other option would be that your a/c relay may have a malfunction and when it's gets hot sticks and doesn't allow the a/c to turn back on. Try locating that and switching it out with a relay that looks the same next to it, just make sure what one you use to switch it with!! (only if it's the same looking relay or #) take it out of like a horn or something that won't cause damage! Also check the interior buttons, may be shorted.
If after all this the problem has not been taken care of might as well get it checked out by someone close to you who can hands on help you better.
Good luck!
freon was added the system about 40k miles ago...
since then... no...
checked the switch, i stated how i verified the compressor was functional.... replaced the condenser fan (thing broke about 50 miles ago... had to repalce it) i swapped relays with the headlight relay last night cause i thought the same thing... no change in the results... the relay that i messed with is located in the fuse box on the drivers side within the engine bay...
as for the interior buttons... i did notice that the a/c green light no longer turns on... not sure how that's related... (i just thought it was burnt out LED)... the system functions without the a/c green light on... a/c button still functions properly...
thanks for all of your input bunni34
regards
flip
since then... no...
checked the switch, i stated how i verified the compressor was functional.... replaced the condenser fan (thing broke about 50 miles ago... had to repalce it) i swapped relays with the headlight relay last night cause i thought the same thing... no change in the results... the relay that i messed with is located in the fuse box on the drivers side within the engine bay...
as for the interior buttons... i did notice that the a/c green light no longer turns on... not sure how that's related... (i just thought it was burnt out LED)... the system functions without the a/c green light on... a/c button still functions properly...
thanks for all of your input bunni34
regards
flip
You know come to think about it im new to the evo world, but i did have one time a toyota corolla in with the a/c doing the same damn thing, although the ac button light did flash codes that i sued to correct and fix the problem. I'll look at my shop key for any TSB's for you and if i find any i will let you know.
Only tsb's i come up with for your year are a wiring repair harness kit said to be sent out to all the owner's, and an a/c comp psi relief valve, but does not state any symptoms of the why to change the valve...



