^^ probably freezing due to excess water which is causing that mildew smell you've got....

 

k... spent my break tinkering with it...

blew air through the a/c drip stuff.... a bit of water came out...

as for the TSBs... i've never heard of the dealer replacing any of that... as i use to go to the dealer for all my service until 60k miles

 

What are the low and high side temps and what is ambient? This is the only way you're going to get to the bottom of this you can't just keep changing parts, well I guess you could but it's the long way around.

 

how to test low and high side temps?

thanks for your input cfdfireman1


regards
flip

 

If moving the clutch proved successful, and it won't move after a certain time on it's own, then it still sounds to me like a weak clutch. Like maybe it's got an intermitent short. But I'm no AC guru.

 

misspoke, meant to say pressures.

 

will check tonight and post again in the morning

again i would like to thank everyone's input in this as we try to figure out what the crap went wron

 

Well how's that goin for ya?

 

sorry for the delay in updates....

in front of the car right now...

high side... car cold (ambient i guess)
psi reads at 85psi

unfortunetly i do not have the proper tools to test the pressure for the low side


regards
flip

 

That doesn't tell us much you need to run the car for like 20 minutes and check it. Ambient temp is just the outside air temp. At least get the pressure and discharge temp right before it shuts off or at 20 minutes.

6. Start the engine.
7. Set the A/C controls as follows:
• A/C switch: A/C − ON position
• Mode selection: FACE position
• Temperature control: MAXIMUM COOLING position
• Air selection: RECIRCULATION position
• Blower switch: "4" (HI) position
8. Adjust engine speed to idle speed with A/C clutch engaged.
9. Engine should be warmed up with doors and windows open.
10.Insert a thermometer in the center air outlet and operate the
engine for 20 minutes.
NOTE: If the clutch cycles, take the reading before the clutch
disengages.
11.Note the discharge air temperature.

 

At my shop this is how i perform an A/C test. I have a machine for starter's, and i 1st Evacuate the complete system and check to see how much freon came out in Lbs. (IF the lbs was exact then the freon is not the problem.) Then I pull a 10 Minute Vacuum to check for leaks. If no Leaks are present during the vacuum test i Recharge the complete system with the exact stated amount. I add with the freon some oil, and a special UV dye as well. After it's complete I cycle it on and let it run while i check for any leaks with a UV light. If no leaks are present i let the customer take the car for about a week, and have them return so i can recheck the system.
In the case of the compressor to stop working, something is shutting it down. If it did not have enough freon, it would either not work at all, or keep cycling on and off non stop due to the compressor trying to build psi with the freon that it has.
My theory is that it's one of multi things. Relay, Psi Switch, Clutch Solenoid. My only concern was that you mentioned mildew smell in which would cause me to belive that your A?C water drain for the evap core is clogged not allowing the water to run out causing the evaporator to freeze and back up with water creating that smell. That would shut down the A/C.
All in all we can have to check over every damn thing till your blue in the face, but my suggestion is instead of roasting trying to figure it all out, just spend some loot and have it checked out since it seems you've exhausted the possibilities so far.

Truth be told i never use the A/C in my Z or in the Gf's Evo...2x50 or 4x50 is my ac!2 or 4 windows down doing 50 mph works for me! A/c Hinder's Power hence why i don't use it, plus wastes gas!

 

^^^ any tech can do that, now try doing an interweb diagnostic. ;-0